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I think that car also ran at LeMans. It wasn't a factory effort.

Exact 

Hi Joe,

Glad to help. I added one dimension to the end of the curved spanner bar 3/32 radius on the end. I measured the thickness at .094 inches. This is a little under 12 gauge steel. Best of luck.
Cory

Thanks again, Cory, I'm going to start making them.
I'll post the results.

Hi Joe, you can also try this dimensioned drawing.
Cory

Cory, this picture is incredibly helpful, thank you so much for all the measurements and their accuracy.

What is the exact thickness and is it the same for the 3 different types of valve cover spreaders?

I think you meant to type the short or curved tab ones.

I was talking about the one that is referred to as "Straight w/ Long Tab" in the Virginia Mustang picture.
In other words, the one that is only used once per valve cover.

Also the ones in your picture have rounded corners at the end of the tabs unlike originals as well as the "bump" in the tabs or arms

Indeed, even though they were too long so this section would have been removed. But even with this modification, they wouldn't be accurate compared to the reproductions.
Thank you for the close-up photos especially the last one showing the thickness.

Since I live in France, I was hoping these reproductions were or would become available again.

I've already purchased these from Amazon, which are the closest to the originals I could find, but I probably won't use them.

I've collected several photos of unrestored/very original GT350s (however, I haven't found a good photo of the one closest to the intake, the long tab one), and I don't think it's worth modifying them.
The problem isn't that they're too long, but that they're too thick, the drilled hole is too low and too big.

I'll send you a PM, Brant, to buy the ones you have; at least I'll have the two long tabs.
Regarding the other tabs, I'll indeed start from scratch, and if you have the tracings of them, Bob, I would be very grateful.

Thanks anyway to everyone for your replies and your involvement.

I am looking for these:
http://blog.virginiaclassicmustang.com/2014/05/cobra-valve-cover-hold-down-tab-set.html

They aren't available at Kentucky Mustang; it seems they focus more on general Mustang parts than specific Shelby reproduction parts.

Do you know where I could get a set?

The first hundred or so cars equipped with the 16-inch steering wheel had a unique hub assembly consisting of two parts: an aluminum hub and the part shown at the bottom of your picture IMG_4622 (or at the top in image IMG_4623).

The S1MS hub is taller than the aluminum hub.

https://www.willhaben.at/iad/gebrauchtwagen/d/auto/X-1626767293/

The real 5S137 was sold a few weeks ago.

For sale again with small added value 

https://www.eurostocks.com/x/x/x/vehicle/3071439/ford-gt-shelby-gt350-m0978?

I think the original motor is more important in a more valuable car. Let's face it, the 1968 GT350 is the least desirable Shelby. A more desirable Shelby would be the 1967 GT500 - if one of those has its original 428 it is unusual because most of them were blown up long ago. Maybe in that case it would affect value - most folks would prefer a roller motor 347 in a '68 GT350. At least I would. 

But the 1967 GT500 is the only Shelby where it is impossible to know if it is the original engine because in 1967 the 428 engines did not have the VIN stamped so you just need to have the correct date.

Back to the Future 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQtSWiSBt_M&t=11s

Sold for 126,500 EUR

They didn't remove the door tag? 

https://www.barrett-jackson.com/scottsdale-2025/docket/vehicle/1968-shelby-gt500kr-281477

cf: https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=13016.0