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Bret,  Good day-- I bought the car (the one that Colorado Mustang sold "a while back") It was actually 10 years ago-- I had it on deck for a restoration to return it to its original glory and color (it had been repainted at some point to (medium lime metallic) It is in final stages of a complete nut and bolt restoration -- Original color is Sunlit Gold/Black vinyl roof
Stay tuned--  I know a few fellow Chelby owners -- If I hear of one coming available I will let you know- You are welcome to PM me if you want to connect to discuss the car further--

Cheers,

Jim

Thank you Jeff -- will do

Best regards,
Jim

I have a 1965 GT350 with a Ford Toploader in it (should be a T-10) The Toploader has been in the car for well over 50 years and is stamped with this VIN 7R02K113015
I am a Ford enthusiast and collector -- I think it would be great to re-unite the transmission with its rightful car (if it is still in existence)
If anyone has that car or knows of its whereabouts -- please reach out to me and we can re-unite it!

Best regards,

Jim

Cant post pic -- 

Marcus-
This may be a little late--

But here are pics of mine (before we re-did it)-
Note metal ID band
Also regarding bleeding the unit-- I had a very in-depth conversation with Brad at MICO-

These were quickie notes that I took during the call last summer--
Note that it is very important to bench bleed BEFORE you install it-- (it's possible to do once in car -- but tough and results vary)

Excuse the shorthand note taking---

Conversation with Brad at Mico (Technical help) last summer--

Need part number on front of unit — (not numbers on sides)— Those are casting #'s

Can order a rebuild kit —(3 week lead time)-
but may not need  See notes below-


Brad at Mico
1 800 477 6426

bstage@mico.com

Most likely needs to be Bench Bleed-

Possible to do while in the car but many times you can not-
From a bleeder on the unit
Run a nylon tube that goes below the reservoir (so it can be bled)  — Pump till all bubbles out— Must hit hard stop or useless process-
Then keep hitting hard stop—
Could take 15 –25 times
After no bubbles — Need to do another 10 times!
The idea is that you are putting velocity of fluid through that catch air bubbles— (vs pushing air bubbles)
Very difficult to do compared to a normal master cylinder-

Measure the pushrod stroke— Needs to be 1.5" of travel (or it is fruitless)-
If poor results then you must bench bleed by removing master cylinder and carefully putting in vice (no scratchy)
— Put a fitting at outlet to put hose back into reservoirs with dowel then use to push it- always to hard stop —

Then re-install and bleed some more-

This is exactly how I was instructed-- We did it and it worked-- (don't shoot the messenger   )

Can buy a rebuild kit once we know the part # of Mico Unit which is located at end of unit-

I hope that helps either you or others!!

Car stops fine-- but it's a "different" feel then the regular Mustang masters-

Good Luck!!

Jim