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Easy question that surely has been mentioned in earlier threads here on this site.

Not sure where your reading  but hope they are not general forums where individuals are just posting their opinion or "my brothers/next door neighbors car had them" sort of source, but no they didn't installed lanyards on the cars you've asked about at the factory. Might want to stop using those "resources" that said they did.

Hope this helps you make the right choice.

That is curious, in my state of New Mexico, all you need is a clear title and you can have that transferred to you and register it to drive. Are there states where a registration is needed to do this?

Looks like you are stating the same thing. Transfer of ownership is a different step than registering to drive though almost always done at the same time. To save on licensing owners can save on the annual fees by getting a non-op which means the car can't be operated on public roads. In this way the state still makes some money not not all the taxes as they would if the car was not registered. Have one race car that I've handled this way for decades. Without the non-op when it came to transfer/sell the car and if it were purchased by another in Calif there would be thousands of dollars owed due often not a happy surprise for the new owner

What is the purpose of this statement in the description?

"The car is currently registered as Planned Nonoperation."

To let a potential buyer, know that the car is not licensed to operate on the road - not registered. If done correctly in most states there would be no back fees or taxes owed but always good to check since this can mean thousands.

Also could be used to explain why there might not be any shots of the car being driven or on a drive as people often ask for in a running car.

Blasting enough to get soem texture is not going to benefit the engineering numbers and other details.  Thought some had looked into recoating the exterior but it also doesn't do much for the same markings and details.


Best choice for a restored car is going to be to find another that someone hasn't blasted already. Lots of past threads on what blasting does to the original finish and look so seek those out. 

Looks to be, lo

Jeff,
Do you know or can you tell.what is retained in that clip?

Pete

Believe and it looks like the wire loom from the firewall to battery area and the vacuum hose is your car has the AC and tilt, that travels to the vacuum can under the battery box. If not its just the one. If you have a convertible that would add an additional wire to the group for the power top.

Lots of things in the way if the car is fully assembled that block nice clear pictures of the area.  If your wondering about the picture on the left the "post" for the wire retainer is in the lower/tighter hole, just an odd angle but it shows up in another picture I have from the same car but chose this picture for other reasons.


Green arrow - Wire loom
Yellow arrow - Convertible power top wire
Purple arrow - Vacuum hose

Yes that upper hole would have received a standard push in plastic strap like many other points in the engine compartment like is shown in your picture with the two possible ends at the adjustable/loose end. Now what it retained or included in the strap appears to differ from what is shown in your picture.

Yes all 68 GT350's were equipped with 9" rearends. They should not be confused with Mustangs which, depending on the options could come with 8" or 9". If the GT package was chosen they received the 9".  Didn't have anything to do, for the Mustang, what the gear ratio was.  If you check Marti reports and build sheets the coding identifies that the 68 GT350's were ordered/specified as GT cars.

Are you asking about the date stamp on the carb or on the tag?

For the carb I've got original cars in that period stamped with the date of 895 in my records.  Tag dates? I'ld have to look closer in another location for that data if that is what your asking. Kevin Marti does reproduce those.

Thought this one was interesting. See a few familiar faces in the ad/video 


P-51 Little Red & Green Hornet The P-51 Little Red and Green Hornet is limited edition timepieces made from Carroll Shelby's 1967-68 experimental Ford Mustang GT500 coupé prototypes, aka 'Little Red' and 'Green Hornet'.

https://www.recwatches.com/videos/

Nice detective work. Sometimes their easy and "hidden" in plain sight other times they more difficult.  As always hope this publically posted information saves someone's a** but unfortunately someone gets burned.

Thanks for sharing.

Hi all,

I have two questions relating to the header gaskets for the tri-Y headers.

1) Who was the original supplier for the gasket?
2) Any recommendations on a gasket that looks closest to OEM?

Below is a screenshot of what the Internet says, Cyclone sourced the gasket from "Best Gasket".  Is this accurate?

Thanks

Cory

Never heard of "Best Gasket" but then again the "source" is AI so who knows where that came from. Lots of bad/incorrect info out there being found by people now using AI for their "research". Results is going to be interesting, guessing it will be like those restorations that rely on the Assembly Manuals only as we've seen in the past. 

Don't know of a specific brand to point you to currently. Too many companies shutting down or being bought by other companies. I rely on simply, though takes time, a visual inspection of the shape and make up of what is available at the time and if I need to paint (if you can still get white header paint)  them then so be it to get the end result needed.  Also if you find the correct shaped ones I suggest you purchase a few sets either for later or to help out someone else in the future. Good luck  in your search

Shouldn't there be pinch weld blackout overspray, or is that only on fastbacks?

Yes the process (exterior painting) was the same no matter the body type. Coupe, Fastback or convertible traveling down the NJ assembly line.

Forgotten, missed or just ignored by some/many at this point in the hobbies evolution but people building drivers or sort of restored cars often choose to skip the step.

Assembly manuals are not very helpful in details like this that are directly a result of individual workers at that moment on the line. Looking at the multiple assembly manuals across the years they show edge to edge coverage on the inner fender panels and that's just not typical of factory results at any of the plants. Basically based on the pictures and my focus through the years the coverage on the back side of the fenders is a result of the pattern that applier was applying to the inner fender panels, the firewall section and to the splash shields as they had been directed. Patterns or paths were most often a continuous flowing motion with the applicator flowing all the time through the pattern so if the wand was traveling from lets say the lower right to the upper left, once it reached the top and preparing to then travel from the upper right to the lower left on the rear inner fender panel the curve at the top often did include the bottom side of the fender.

On a percentage of the applications one or more of the workers assigned to the task on that shift often choose to make an addition pass over the top surface (bottom of the fender) of the front wheel well.  This often started and or ended on the front splash shield area or , on a Mustang the back side of the front valance in over spray, and at the rear onto the rear splash shield and the cowl/firewall section visible in the wheel well. In other examples the worker applying the product followed a different pattern , for example only horizontal patterns on the inner fender panel, so the pattern never reached the upper edges where it was joined with the fender so little or none was applied to that large area in the middle of the fender between the splash shields.

Below is just one example from late in the production year in 67 at San Jose that came off an unrestored Shelby. Though both side often don't match each other in this example they did a pretty good job of looking that way. Areas at the front of the fenders with no sound deadener is due to the front splash shields, now removed, masking the spray from those surfaces during the process.   






If your interested in the general application of sound deadener in the front wheel well of your car we'll need a finish date at San Jose or the car number so that I can post other unrestored example from possibly same day, week  or if all else fails the month.

Just as a note cars built in the 40's and earlier were originally titled by the VIN on the engine not the body/frame. There was a process in later decades where owners could change the "official" VIN used by a state to the frame number. This helped with titling and registering those cars when you hot rodded them replacing the original engines with other (typical example: a small block Chevy) engines

They are different