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I used the Dashes Direct panels (I tried others from other manufacturers) and faced the same issues. As I recall I used an angled awl to open up the clip slots and used repro clips. Even then the clips were a fight to get installed on the panels but in the end that worked to my benefit as I could align them with the holes in the door on the workbench (I made a template of each door to align the clips on the panel with) and they stayed in place while installing the panel to the door. I did NOT remove material from the panels to install the clips as JD did.

Thanks all!

Looks original. Does it have the hinged baffles inside?

Yes.

I have what looks to me may be an original over the counter Cobra T-pan based on what I've been able to research so far. Was wondering if anyone had any thoughts one way or the other?

Note: Posting in the GT350/500 group simply because it's on my double-digit GT350. It was on the car when I acquired it 38 years ago and decided to keep it as a minor deviation from stock - and guilty pleasure. Now that the plug threads have fallen out of it I need to decide whether to repair or replace with a stock steel pan.

Thanks all.

Off road terrain? Hmmmm

Looks he has a couple other cars to scam people with...these people are just irritating

I hadn't thought of intentionally off-roading mine, at least not sober, or awake, or any other time I can think of : )

*** POSTED FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY ***

https://norfolk.craigslist.org/ctd/d/norfolk-1967-ford-mustang-shelby-gt350/7782367112.html

1967 Ford Mustang Shelby GT350
Offered by:  — (276) 284-9258 — $79,999

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There is a signature on both visors. The fender is phenomenal and looks gorgeous down. There is a little bitty chip right on the edge of the door, a little spider crack. Nothing stands out on the spoiler. There are little surface scuffs on the back deck, and there is a minor scratch on the paint.



Year: 1967
Make: Ford
Model: Mustang Shelby GT350
VIN: 67200F2A01429
Stock #: SM01429
Condition: Used
Mileage: 3,065
Exterior: Blue
Body: Coupe
Transmission: manual
Engine: V8
Drivetrain: rwd

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What parts store direct replacement screw in fuel filters are folks using in their GT 350s these days? Not looking for historical accuracy here, just something that works and at least kind of looks the part.

Thanks -

Are you using the brass adapter block that goes into the carb like what was original or not . Consequently there are two different filter type alternatives . Both have a aftermarket direct equivalent.

Yes, the large reducer. It's about the same diameter as the filter can.

I know what you mean. For others reading FYI it is not a reducer but a adaptor to adapt the course threads of the typical Ford carb filter FG 15 to the fine threads of the Holley bowl inlet which are fine threads. Some owners who don't care about the original look eliminate the adapter and use a FG14 filter to screw directly into the Holley Bowl.

Got ya - I just assumed reducer due to the size - thanks Bob.

What parts store direct replacement screw in fuel filters are folks using in their GT 350s these days? Not looking for historical accuracy here, just something that works and at least kind of looks the part.

Thanks -

Are you using the brass adapter block that goes into the carb like what was original or not . Consequently there are two different filter type alternatives . Both have a aftermarket direct equivalent.

Yes, the large reducer. It's about the same diameter as the filter can.

What parts store direct replacement screw in fuel filters are folks using in their GT 350s these days? Not looking for historical accuracy here, just something that works and at least kind of looks the part.

Thanks -

I have adjusted my Ford 4spd shifter as mentioned with a drill bit through the holes in neutral.  It usually will shift just fine, but every once in a while after reversing out of the garage, the shifter gets stuck in neutral and won't go into any forward gear.   
Anyone know what may be happening here?
Kurt.

Try being being more deliberate about the shift out of reverse into neutral i.e. push forward gently until the shifter hits the stop before letting it spring back to center. If this resolves the issue then I'd say a minor adjustment on the reverse shift rod should help you, it did for me. I had a tendency to just push the shifter until it flopped over as soon as it could - resulting in the same condition you describe.

So does anyone know of a source for better quality repop panels?

Sometimes it's hard to get a comment from folks on repro parts around here so I'll offer my by-no-means expert opinion.

I think you'll find them all to be a compromise of one sort or another, it's up to you what you're willing to accept. I would've had my originals restored but for the cost and no guarantee of outcome held me back.

I looked at TMI, Mustang Exchange and Dashes Direct. I landed on the DD as the lesser of the 3 evils, yours and/or other opinions may, and likely will differ.

https://www.mustangmarket.com/door.htm

Do Mustang Market panels have masonite (hardboard) backing?  Has anyone tried these?

Of the 3 manufactures I tried these were the least like originals in appearance imo, though as I recall they claim otherwise, and quality issues beyond panel flatness. They wouldn't take them back and I couldn't/wouldn't use them.

I don't remember if they were masonite backed or not but I could dig them out and look if you like.

[1) over the New London CT ferry w/trailer, 2) over the Bridgeport CT ferry 3) over the Whitestone from the Bronx 4) From points West Over the George Washington Bridge to the Bronx then over the Throgs Neck Bridge w/trailer 5) through the Midtown Tunnel w/trailer 6) from points South over the Outerbridge Crossing to Staten Island to the Verrazano Bridge to the Van Wick w/trailer.]

...
Undeterred, I wrote an article  for the Mustang Times called "Getting There" where on 6 weekends 8 months before the show, I took my Boss 302 and I drove 1) over the New London CT ferry w/trailer, 2) over the Bridgeport CT ferry 3) over the Whitestone from the Bronx 4) From points West Over the George Washington Bridge to the Bronx then over the Throgs Neck Bridge w/trailer 5) through the Midtown Tunnel w/trailer 6) from points South over the Outerbridge Crossing to Staten Island to the Verrazano Bridge to the Van Wick w/trailer.
...

I've done all of those routes save for the NL ferry, and not in the Shelby, and not towing a trailer because that would be, well - just crazy - like hiding behind the chainsaws crazy : ) Some of those trips had to be brutal.

Slightly off topic but closely related - I've always wondered, and some of the images in this post raise it again, should the taillights be (i.e. intended to be from SA) horizontally aligned lens center parallel to panel center, top lines parallel or bottom lines parallel - I've seen all 3. And was the mounting kind of hit-and-miss at SA or mostly due to past and present owners during some sort of repair/refurbishment?

Awesome.