Messages

I've seen tops made for putting on webers and also autolite inline carburators.

    I would think that the "Weber" (if IDA's) plan wouldn't prove to be terribly successful; but a pair of "Inline's" ("A" series, not "B's") on an engine that could actually utilize the capacity and with effort, could at least prove interesting. 

    Scott.

    One car that I did end up with from BAT was after the auctions' completion, where as the story goes, the winning bidder "failed to follow trough", the follow-up bidder "passed", and I then got the email from BAT stating that the "Seller"would accept my bid as made; which was though significantly less.  Hmm? 

    Then, another vehicle was one which I had inquired on directly from the Dealer, whom then became the "Seller" as listed on BAT, which then after the supposed "successful sale" with a "winning bid", but then the Dealer called me back three more times the following week attempting to still sell me the car! 

    These  are just a couple of my limited personal experiences with direct involvement; but of course I have made, as many others have also, spectative observations of just some strange and unexplainable bidding executions, that even though people may never seem to not amaze me in their incomprehensible behaviors, some of it certainly lends creed to surreptitious practices.   

    "Shill Bidders"?  Your darn tootin!   

    Scott.

     

    A half-a-dozen or so years ago, I had the opportunity to purchase a white w/ blue striped example, with the seller thinking something around $120,000 would be appropriate, stupid me    said: "NA"!   

    In the day we installed quite a few "upgrades" to these GT40's, most popular being pulleys to increase the blower boost; at the time we didn't consider that we were 'mucking' with someone's "multi-million" dollar car! 

    Scott.

   

. . . . . as manufactured, the single 4 lid has a divider cast into the bottom . . . . .

    Not to be stickler for the details but, there actually is what might be considered the "divider" under the carburetor running front to back separating left from right (sort of), but there also are two other dividers or perhaps better stated as "directional vanes", to each side of the carburetor opening, this it seems all in an attempt to direct the fuel from the centrally mounted location of the carb, out to the furthermost corner port runners. 

    And this just might be your first indicator of where the engineers felt there 'would be' a problem in the single four execution and one reason why I stated that if one wasn't going to utilize this intake as a "dual 4V" execution, I'd probably run something else. 

    Scott.     

Was the 1x4v lid 'factory Shelby/Buddy Bar" or fabricated? I was gonna see if my single Cross-Boss lid would work.

  It was a casting presenting the ribbing and "SHELBY" nomenclature. 

  No, the "CROSS-BOSS" top won't fit.   

  Scott.

    It's not just Barrett Jackson and MECUM that draw the crazies out anymore! 

    I'm just stuck on the thought of:  If your dumb enough to bid these crazy sums for this stuff, how is it that you've been able to acquire the money to pay for it in the first place? 

    Scott.

    Yes, a single 4V lid was also made available. But I'd either utilize the "dual-four" lid or just pick a different manifold.   

    As far as for how'd they work, well due to the great expanse of plenum area under the carburetor, one should be prepared to experience a certain sum of delay in throttle response (particularly low-speed) as compared to something more conservatively sized.  But the top-end charge, with the appropriate other componentry, should prove rewarding.   

    Scott.

These gaskets are very rigid and don't feel like gaskets of today. They feel like they'd be very easy to snap in half if you weren't careful.

    Those "white" fiber gaskets were always 'sorta' stiff and didn't lend to being bent far, but over time, if only of decades sitting on a shelf, they become quite rigid and absolutely brittle; this to the point of not being of any great value other than as for visual representations. 

    Scott. 

     If it were to "NO SALE" at that, I'd have to say: "it didn't".   

     Scott.

I find it very interesting that BaT buyers are giving this car the @n@l exam and let other years sell for ridiculous amounts when they have tag issues.

    It's difficult to judge the overall behavior of the crowd and their "actual" reception to a listing, this because is seems that BAT is becoming more and more a participant in guiding the auctions, through what they refer to as "reviewing" and not posting and then just "removing" comments that might not participate in supporting a narrative.  And this intervention effort is particularly notable for their "favored" Sellers/Partners where at times it's more of a case of a gilding of the product!

    Scott.

    Looking on a list that I have for Auto-Lite carbs, "C6ZF-F" references .052 & .068 as being std. and this also for the "C6ZF-C", "C5OF-J", "C5OF-L". . . . . . . .etc.; this in Mustang, Fairlane & Falcon chassis w/ 289's.

    Interestingly the .051 & .071 jetting numbers are listed for the "C8AF-AE" for example (and probably others), which is for the '66 Thunderbird w/ 390/428. 

    Note that there's more to it than just "jet sizes", in the fuel control circuitry function of a carburetor, including the value of the "signal" as presented by the engine, so that's why the only correct answer to your dilemma is as I stated previously: beginning with what you've got and start jetting up (generally wise to prove truly "over-rich" first) and then down, including playing with the balance relationship between the primaries and secondaries, "for best performance"!   

    Scott.

  No, Holley jets are not the same.   

  As for jetting, start with what you have and then start jetting up or down for "best effect".   

  Scott.

    Not to be picking sides, but consider; for those who wish to tout that if one should find a numbered block, that they, along with being the one whom puts forth the effort to find it, and then locate the original vehicle and owner, then "should" sell that correctly matching block to that owner, reaping little or no benefit or god forbid any "profit", this in the name of being responsible in this society.  Well then, I would assume that those of such demeanor also believe that anyone in possession of these such vehicles, when choosing to move them on to a new owner, "should" solely tally up what their actual cost outlay might be, and not levy anything above this in their selling price (maybe less depending on condition but certainly not more!); and particularly not any enhanced value due to now having a "numbers matching" example.     
 
    B.T.W. How are we to handle the situation of where you might have negotiated a lower purchase on the vehicle price because it "was" non-matching, but being that it "is" numbers-matching, should this possible enhanced value be ignored as otherwise you're "sicking it to the man"?   
   
    Because if you're a good steward in this hobby, you certainly shouldn't want to make the next guy 'feel' like he had to pay, at least not "exorbitantly", to participate, this regardless of what the actual market value might imply, right?! 

    Scott. 

      Well, I'm not so sure I can be of any assistance, but, . . . . .  I'm thinking that since these induction systems were a Parts Dept., aka post vehicle production accessory item, and I don't think(?) they probably came with a thermostat housing "in-the-box", rather one was expected to just re-utilize that which was already there and acceptable for that vehicle chassis, so therefore, I'm thinking, the "correct" thermostat housing is the one that's "correct" for the chassis that that intake manifold is bolted into? 

      O.K., maybe I'm wrong?

      Scott. 

    I think it's called: "live and learn", because then I suppose, if you don't live, you won't learn!   

    Scott.