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I own a Shelby GT and have run it at Willow springs and the old California Speedway, certainly for its time it its an amazing car that handles excellent. Yes the brakes are not up to the rest of the car but at the California Speedway it was able to out handle most of the same year GT 500s which are pretty fast themselves. There is an old video online from 2011 about the Shelby GT competing with numerous fast cars at an event at Irwindale speedway for online car clubs that were invited to attend. The Shelby GT bested all of them. It is a great car.

Is this the car that Michael Shoen owned?

I also have a 347 with AFR 185 heads with that T/A manifold. It currently has twin 390 carbs and a big comp roller cam and it is the best running small block I have ever had. It had 600''s and then 460's but would foul plugs. I don't claim to be an expert but for the last 6 years it has been flawless with no bogging and amazing performance. i followed the advice of Car Craft magazine article from about ten years ago that tested this manifold with various carbs and found the 390's worked the best. For an all out race car you might use larger carbs but for anything short of that smaller might work better. Never had it on a dyno but it has to be north of 400 hp.

Could this be the same car as the Orange Blossom Special?

One more closer

Here are some pictures of the bulkhead from trunk to interior. Not very good picture but maybe you get the idea. I used a thin sheet of fiberglass to fill in the inside of the car where the flip up panel would be.

I fabricated it myself, not the best looking but I run the car in open track events and with any size tank it is a good Idea. There are some after market ones that used to be sold and one that bolts on top of a stock sized tank. You can use aluminum plate and drill and bolt it in yourself that is not too hard to do. Not sure if it is required by vintage racers but for anything else it is a good modifacation unless you have a fuel cell. I will post picture soon.

I have a r-model tank in my replica that has the hammered down lip and a ring on top with the splash bucket on top, it works great and has not leaked a drop in 8 years, but I would not run it full for any reason and have the stainless steel panel to give a little more protection  .for the inside of the car.

Here is more pics from the back and side, what was this used on? Maybe sold through a catalog. it has the AC stamp on the back and looks to be similar to R model except cable drive.

Here is the only picture I have so far but hope to get a picture of the other side along with more info.

Thanks for the info, the tach I am referring to is for sale and I have only seen a picture of the front and i looks like an R model type with no redline and white tach needle with CS logo at the bottom. The owner says it is cable driven, I will have him send me more pictures.

I have a question about the 1965 R model tach, were they cable drive? I know there are not many around out there, what are they worth?

I used to have a 66 289hp car that I put a 600 DP carb and it felt like  50 hp increase, of course it wasnt that much but felt great, a lot may depend on your engine but even though on a dyno you may show an increase with a large carb, for driving around I have found 600 or so carb on a stock type engine feels better especially a double pumper. gas mileage is a different story.

I have one mounted in the trunk just for looks and run off mechanical engine pump on my R-model replica.

The tach was made for competition use (more reliable?) and was made by a different company