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From David Kee's Toploader website about lubrication. T 10 should be similar. https://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/specifications.htm

 OILING SPECIFICATIONS

BREAK IN

Fill your Toploader with any quality 80W-90 GL-4 gear lubricant until the oil level reaches the fill plug opening. It should take approx. 2 quarts. We recommend changing the gear lube for the first time between 500 and 1000 miles to remove the grease used to pack the needle bearings that has dissolved, Permatex, break in metal, glass beads etc. We use several new parts in our transmissions and they will seat in with each other during the break in period. It is not uncommon to see very fine metal on the magnetic drain plug when you drain the oil the first time.

MAINTENANCE

We recommend changing the gear lube every 20-25,000 miles in normal street driving applications. If you have higher than stock horsepower or drive your car aggressively you should change the gear lube every 10-15,000 miles. We recommend Brad Penn 80W-90 GL-4 gear oil.

ROAD RACE TRANSMISSIONS

Toploaders used in racing applications need a break in period. Put some EASY laps on the transmission at low to mid rpm lightly accelerating and decelerating in each gear. This will give the gears a chance to break in and dissolve the grease in the needle bearings used during assembly. After a few laps, drain the transmission and clean the magnetic drain plug, then fill with 2 quarts of high quality GL-4 gear lubricant. Once completed, the transmission should be race ready. We recommend Brad Penn 80W-90 GL-4 gear oil.

SYNTHETIC GEAR LUBE

Synthetic oil is very popular in the automotive industry today. The way a Toploader is designed it needs a certain amount of friction for the blocker rings to synchronize shifts. We have had people try synthetics and say it works great and some say it doesn't work at all. Everyone agrees that standard gear lubricant does work. The biggest determining factor as to whether it will work or not is the driver. If you drive your car normally and shift it normally synthetic would be a great choice. If you drive aggressively or want to shift fast then synthetic may not work well. If you try synthetic gear lube and it does not work for your driving style drain the transmission and try standard 80W-90 GL-4 gear lubricant.

GL-5 GEAR LUBE

GL-5 gear lubricant should not be used in a 4 speed Toploader due to the extreme pressure additives that are aggressive to the soft metals.

When you say restored, are they just cleaned up to resemble the original finish only or was a new hose also installed? If a new hose, how did you manage to apply the correct single crimp & get a period correct new hose with proper markings? If the hose is original, are these hoses meant for Thoroughbred cars that primarily get pushed around? I don't trust 30-year-old brake hoses on my driver cars. Let alone 50+ year old ones. Just wondering because I just replaced the original hoses on my friends 69 GT500 4 speed last week (aftermarket hoses, car will be a driver) and I figured they are good for nothing but wall art at this point.

Does this apply to other years as well?

Do you have a picture of your block?

Added pic to 1st post.

 I enhanced your new picture a little bit. Tap or click where it says L-S block. Jpg for full size.

     Roy

Thank you.

Do you have a picture of your block?

Added pic to 1st post.

It's not a 1963 block. It has 3 bolt motor mounts, the extra inside web rib, the reverse 105 on front & back, the MCC casting logo & a 4.13 bore (it's an NOS block). I told him to check for the cast in "428" in the water jackets.

Yes, but if you look at the pictures, the casting date has the 2 dots and what looks like a 10/18/1973 casting date but without the ribs. It also doesn't have a bushing in the distributor hole and a drain back hole in the pan rail. I thought all the around 1972 & later blocks had the ribs until I saw this one.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2419495245212607/?ref=marketplace_profile&referral_code=undefined
It's a friend of mines block. For sale.

Has anyone seen a reverse 105 FE engine block without the outside extra ribs on the sides 0f the skirts. Casting date looks to be October of 1973, but first digit is just about unreadable.

We know the color is wrong, but the seller states the transmission is an RUG-S1 but it seems to look like it has a full-size tail-shaft on it.   

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2220541205363013/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general_listing&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-7147028847322049685%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%225923843452692245911%22%2C%22top_level_post_id%22%3A%225923843452692245911%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A5923843452692245911%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A1%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A5635640944237876615%2C%5C%22ranking_request_id%5C%22%3A8670365940836599938%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A501%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A0.00015813966941399%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3A129%2C%5C%22candidate_retrieval_source_map%5C%22%3A%7B%5C%2226671865725742966%5C%22%3A3011%2C%5C%2226325302970460160%5C%22%3A3011%2C%5C%2226562900143401133%5C%22%3A3001%2C%5C%2225308861102116951%5C%22%3A3011%2C%5C%2227122670417317900%5C%22%3A3012%2C%5C%2226165441023128503%5C%22%3A3012%7D%2C%5C%22grouping_info%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22%7D

I recall reading something about that engine in some book a long time ago. I can't remember the book, but I vividly recall it showing a picture of the connecting rods. I remember the picture because the rod caps were at a 45-degree angle as opposed to being flat across.

I've never seen this before. R servo with an H? Anyone else ever see one?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_iwEahjA7Q

Thanks!

Don't mean to hijack this thread but which knob would be considered correct for a 1969 GT500. The one in this thread or this one.
https://www.deadnutson.com/1969-70-shelby-4-speed-shifter-knob/

I was thinking the same thing! Easily the most valuable vehicle at that show of almost 1000 cars!