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TY, I am working on the small details for the MCA show in Jacksonville this weekend and just entered the SAAC 51 in Atlanta in August and want to get as much done as possible before the show.

Todd

FYI it was not on every car that had a front license plate bracket because back in the day not all states required front License plates.I would also mention that if you choose to mount the bracket that you take any plates off of the front and back for the judging part of the show. That also goes for non stock floor mats ,caution fan stickers and those 1980's vintage battery white with red terminal warning tag.

TY, I am working on the small details for the MCA show in Jacksonville this weekend and just entered the SAAC 51 in Atlanta in August and want to get as much done as possible before the show.

Todd

I look forward to seeing you there.

Question

Is the unique front plate holder bare metal or painted black

Todd

It was originally painted black.

I have these bushings and not sure what they fit. Thought someone on the site may have some information from the photos showing part numbers. I am aware they are not a matching set, but they could be useful to someone if they are correct for their car.

Todd

Those are strut rod bushings and not sway bar bushings. They are later 1970 service replacements that I have found in boxes for 68 up Mustangs.

Nice! Another "frame-off" restoration!

Funny that you see the red oxide over spray on the two post lift yellow arms ,floor plugs and E brake cables that this was not the typical "frame off" restoration. More like an "after the fact" restoration and all that implies.

My 69 GT500 is running a Petronix 1 with the 1.6 ohm blaster coil. According to the notes from the previous owner it was installed in the 90's (have to read the notes for the exact year). It's wired directly into the original engine wiring harness. I know the tach is accurate since comparing to a diagnostic test. I've driven at least 1,000 miles last season and a couple thousand since the 90's.  With a Pertronix 1 is this something I should worry about?
Also thinking about just converting back to points and not have to worry about it.  But is there a good source for quality points these days? All I hear is that they are all Chinesium junk. Trying to make the car as correct as possible and the last thing I want to do is fry the tach. 

If you don't see a separate wire out to the Pertronix module for its power and instead getting its power through the factory harness at the coil then a high likelihood of problems at some point.

+1  . Roy's description is correct and consequently there is not 12V going to the tach but only going to the Pertronix module. Using the correct wiring that Roy described there is an extra wire with 12v that runs out to Pertronix module .

Just to be clear, in this setup, the tach receives 12 VDC as it is wired in SERIES with the ignition switch and BEFORE the resistor wire. The coil receives 9 VDC (or so) as it is wired AFTER the resistor wire. The tach receives 12 VDC because it is wired between the switched ingnition wire and the resistor wire. And the PerTronix receives a full 12 VDC as the splice for that is AHEAD of the tach and the resistor wire. It is easy to get lost in this scheme as we are talking about two different voltages: 9 VDC to the coil, 12 VDC to the tach, and 12 VDC to the PerTronix unit. Splicing off of a new wire inserted in the circuit BETWEEN the switched ignition wire (which is 12 VDC) and the tach insures that the proper votages are routed to where they are supposed to go.

I hope this is all clear enough. If I can find my spare slice, I'll post a picture of what it is supposed to look like.

I misspoke .You are correct about the 12V to the tach.

Kent,

I don't think that is  quite correct. Stock 1966, 1967 and 1968 tachs gets power from the 12 vdc ignition line before the resistor wire (I'm not sure about other years but I'm assuming that they are similar). That is, the tach is wired in series with the 12 vdc ignition lead and the resistor wire, which then goes directly to the coil. When I wire the PerTronix, I run a 12vdc line in parrallel with the resistor wire, only I'm taking power for that line ahead of the resistor wire so the PerTronix unit never sees the 9 vdc or so that goes to the coil. Instead it sees a full 12 vdc. I've got two cars wired this way and I have no problems with either the PerTronix units or the tachs.

+1  . Roy's description is correct and consequently there is not 12V going to the tach but only going to the Pertronix module. Using the correct wiring that Roy described there is an extra wire with 12v that runs out to Pertronix module .

I thought the smog pump bypass was a novel idea not putting on the pinch weld blackout not so much.

Excellent, thank you JD!

I believe I already told you that info .  

Hi all

Years ago, I picked up a S1MS 1965 GT350 wood steering wheel hub. At the time I was under the impression it was a later hub that was taller than the earlier hubs.  After SAAC 50, looking at early 65 GT350's hubs, I'm not so sure it's a later hub.  All the early cars had hubs that were 2 inches tall. This one is 2 inches tall, so is it an early hub?  Any education on the hub heights and variations would be appreciated. Please see attached images.
Thanks
Cory

I believe that the earlier hubs were aluminum and they evolved to the chromed diecast like your picture.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/287113273049?_skw=1968+shelby&itmmeta=01KKRY650M6XWBXDRT7PB16050&hash=item42d948ded9:g:920AAeSw2Btpfn0t&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBlROg7%2Fg1geCQBkJLkqzly5tzn9YZ6PQRJP65eQ%2B8UeuBIE%2BilaPEK7L9ffxxJN4IED2BuBPTNb4t48hr%2B0t8A8OwTM3tS78DPqAhHBQFHg5CUxR0Flgo7Nmd%2FWr%2FI84ADGKRtANJ2d3lp4M%2FX0aUBhZ%2BWJ4uMXIdbuTyP3bh2UzmJtAwghGsVwAHkcMz6a8GBDOZ27TJyWnIpmpvTTd3GkEu6zKQYGjAFwgW8drNhVqEPnuX6N0IjK1qIENY86eg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7zQmJ6eZw

That's easy enough.

I have seen one or two in years past which that had numbers and letters where the Cobra letters would be. The small diameter temp was what stood out on the early style in my mind because I have seen the later version that was similar but they had the larger sender hole and a threaded PCV vacuum port.   

I am in the process of replacing my exhaust system. My question, the muffler has a seam on one side. Is the seem on the top side and not visible or do I mount with the seam on the bottom and visible?

Todd

Somewhat of a personal preference. For what ever reason from the factory it was typical to find muffler turn with the stamped letters and numbers facing to the front and turned to read upside down.

I had my 69 GT350 judged a while ago and a few items were listed as being incorrect.

The front brake calipers need to be blacked out which I understand. My question is, what about the brake shoes that show thru the rim?

Door window handles had spacers which I removed but do I keep the plastic spacer?

I have a set of E 70-15 with the White letters and the report reads they should be black wall. The backside is all black, but the lettering is hollow compared to the white letters. Could I just turn these around?

The report shows I have the wrong fan on the alternator, any help with a picture of the correct fan?

The report shows I am missing the ID tag on intake. Wouldn't that have been left on the original intake when replaced with the aluminum?

Todd

The calipers were blacked out because they were bare cast iron which quickly flashes rust and is not cosmetically desirable when rust is seen through the spokes . The disc brake pads on the other hand did not have the same tendency. I suspect some paint (think driveway seal coat) sometimes got on a portion of the pads during the black out process but it was not something that was directed to be done. If you had stereo door speakers you would have the chrome spacer if no speaker no spacer. The  E701X5 white letter tire are speedway type which is different then the blackwall used on later 68 KR and early 69 Shelby's.Turning the tires is just as incorrect. Here is a link to Dead Nuts On who sell the correct fan blade.  https://www.deadnutson.com/13-blade-alternator-cooling-fan-late-1966-thru-11-17-69/   You probably have the later 70's blade which is a common mistake. I don't typically find a metal tag on the 69 GT350 engine probably because stickers were used in 69 on the base painted valve covers which in the case of the Shelby were replaced with the Cobra intake . No effort was made to replace the engine sticker. The thermostat housing was reused and was Ford blue.