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According to the registry all automatic cars were built with the 460 CFM Autolite carb with manual choke.

I'm in the process of reviving my 1966 gt350 that came factory with an automatic transmission.  When my dad bought this car in the early 1980's it wasn't running and  missing some original parts. It's been in storage ever since. I have been reading that after car #800 they came with the 4100 series carb.  my car is #366.  What would be the correct carb?  The last time this car was on the road and running was 1978.  It's time to get it road worthy. My next question did the automatic cars come with the tri-Y headers?  I have the motor apart and found it has a spun rod bearing and one of the cam bearings were installed incorrectly blocking the oil passage. It has a standard bore. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Robert

The correct carb for your early #366 (non carryover) would be the S2MS marked 3259-1 Holley carb. Later cars typically used the 4100 carb through the end of 66 production. It would also have Tri Y headers like every other 66 GT350.

FYI there are two versions of the 69/70 gauges that I am aware of. The assemblyline and early service replacement gauges typically have a dark grey background almost black and the later service replacements have a total black background. Also the assemblyline oil pressure gauge with the dark grey background has the 5 of the 50 centered above the middle hash mark like in Georges picture. The later service replacement not used on the assemblyline has the 0 of the 50 centered on the middle hash mark and the hash marks are spaced differently between the two. Other then the dark grey (assemblyline) vs. the black background (later service replacement) the alternator gauge is otherwise hard to tell.  Best of luck with your sale George.

It is most likely due to the large quantity of paper products I have...

Im looking for the Shelby blueprint of the wood shift handle for the 1968 automatic cars.

Does anyone have a copy?

I think I got my copy from you years ago. I will look. Even though I don't have anywhere near the amount that you do I have a terrible filing system too.

My comments were tongue firmly planted in cheek, after some BaT feedback.

I have known you decades long enough to recognize that instantly, although others may need that reminder. 

Mr Gaines as soon as you say that, the used cars dealers will call you negative. How dare you? You're going to make some Gen XYZer cry. You will hurt their feelings.

🤣😂🤣

   Then I suppose they should not be dishonest with their descriptions. The "all original" in his description was my call to arms.   For example in this for sale ad if the seller would have said "mostly original" I wouldn't have said a word. Those that rail to condone this behavior are part of the problem.

Price is $200K.  Mostly original, low miles. 

+1 not "all original" like the OP claims. From the video the things that stood out to me that were changed are shocks, radiator cap, battery cables and battery hardware, AC rubber straps on export brace on non air car, starter solenoid, master cylinder and master cylinder cap, Wheels of course and replacement convertible top. There are things like if a recored radiator etc. that the resolution of the video can't show.  I am sure there are a number more underneath that were not in the video. A extremely nice mostly original car that could be made better with time,money and parts.

I can't help but wonder why the one bidder jumped in multiple times to make $100K bids but ended up not getting the car for a $1K bid over his $2.1m bid........

Pat

I wonder if any shill bidding ever happens on BAT ?

The perils of AI are just beginning? Remember Terminator? 

+1. Since the first Terminator movie came out I have thought that there was a subliminal attempt to let us know what we are in for and get us used to the possibility of consequences with AI.

Hi,
I see an advertiser on the concoursmustang site as midlife harness.com and it appears he is repairing harnesses....might be worth contacting about a connector.
R.R.

+1 .He does good work and I have bought individual wire parts from him before .

Thanks Bob,
How about the carb to manifold studs? I see silver and I see darker colored ones and both say are correct. Did they change with though the year?

The silver ones are typical.

The connector that attaches the wiring to the headlight bulb on our 1966 carryover is broken as you can see in the attached picture. One option that I'm finding through an online search is to buy an aftermarket pigtail and cut-and-splice that into the wire loom. It appears that CJ pony parts has a good quality aftermarket connector. However, I would rather not cut and splice wires.
     Is there a source anyone knows of that offers an exact OEM connector that I could plug the old wires into? If not, are my only options to either buy an entire new wire loom for the headlights or splice in the aftermarket pigtail?

I can only speak for myself but unless I am replacing the entire harness I would source a donor harness to salvage a plug from. You will have to think outside the box for your donor source. If the wire is damaged also and I had to splice a entire section in then I would go back into the wrapped portion to splice. I solder and stagger the splices rather then heat shrink tube given that the heat shrink typically produces a unsightly bulge under the wrapped tape . By staggering the splices before being wrapped eliminates the chance of a short.

Hi all,
Just to verify things a bit more. The picture shown with a cap without a hose is known as "open"
And was not intended for use on California cars after the beginning of 1967. We see this on many
Invoices so I would suggest getting documents from Dave Matthews to show where it was sold new,and if there is any doubt as to cost,get a Deluxe Marti report. They were under $7.00 I think.
Greeks car was part of the train derailment and was intended to be sold originally East of California, which would explain why it is an "open" type.
R.R.

Regardless of where the car was sold new the Shelby engine code in the Shelby VIN will determine if the car was built with thermactor or not. 202 for 4 speed and thermactor, 203 with thermactor and air. 212 is auto and thermactor or 213 for automatic and thermactor with air. 

I've seen couple different air cleaners on a 67 GT350

Is this setup correct for a June built SAI car?

That setup is for a thermactor equipped 67 GT350. The typical non thermactor is like picture in reply #2. The air cleaner base would not have the large nipple for a hose. It typically had a small 1/8 nipple that was capped off.

The rear block off plate is suppose to be silver or natural?
Gif the rear vacuum port, does the brake booster fitting attach to it alone? Or is there a brass fitting with two ports on it, one for booster and one capped?
When I got my car booster fitting was attached directly to rear port on manifold.
And how far does the by pass tube stick out of manifold to water pump.
Thanks guys

The block off plate is zinc silver. The vacuum fitting for the booster was fitted to the intake port directly behind the carb facing the firewall.  The fitting that attaches to the intake for the power booster vacuum could vary in style . Some had no extra provisions for vacuum. Others had one or more. If more than needed the extra was capped.  By pass tube length out of the intake could vary in length. Many are short because of corrosion. If installing I would like 1 inch . 

After reading the sellers statement "Only the gas tank and AC compressor has been replaced."I looked and not counting the compressor found more items that were changed under the hood than were original.That is a lot.   Underneath besides the gas tank I stopped counting at all of the things that were changed out. It is funny that apparently the seller doesn't know what he doesn't know if he believes his own statement. I forgot to mention that the nut is missing from the bolt through the frame rail holding the PS ram bracket.