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I have no problem with someone covering the fees so they are secure in the process. 

You are a known quantity on this forum so it shouldn't be a issue.

I didn't want my comment to cast any doubt on SCcarbuff only as another method to use PayPal payments.

Sorry, it was not my intention to make you feel like you were casting doubt . I understand your concerns. I just meant in his case

I'm in the process of building a replica group 2 trans am car to eventual run in SVRA group 6TAS.  I want to stay as original to the notchback GT350 race cars as Shelby made them.  My car is a 67. I'm open to flaring the fenders if that's what Shelby did. 
I intend on running DOT tires for now as it will be mostly street with some autocross.

What size wheels and tires did Shelby run?

Does the registry book that's sold her on this site cover the 20-something notchback shelby cars along with full detailed specs?

Thanks!
Eric

Eric the 67 did not have flares but the 68 TA cars did. Some of the 67 TA cars were brought up to 68 specifacations which there were many. You will have to decide which window in time you want to build Replica.

I have no problem with someone covering the fees so they are secure in the process. 

You are a known quantity on this forum so it shouldn't be a issue.

https://classicblueperformance.com/

Scott Drake S2MS-9424-S Scott Drake "Shelby" Intake Manifold, Small Block https://share.google/fbgTII05aESny7h30

      Roy

Scott Drake makes a "Cobra" marked intake that is like the 1966 style.
  https://www.holley.com/products/engine/intake_manifolds/carbureted_intake_manifolds/dual_plane/parts/S2MS-9424-C

Hello SAAC Forum members, I was looking for a Blue Thunder 1966 GT350 "COBRA" style 289 intake manifold in good used or new condition. If you have one or know of someone who may have one for sale my email is mhovander62@gmail.com
Thanks. Mark 

Mark since you are looking for a 66 GT350 style intake manifold I thought I should let you know that the Blue Thunder intake is copied after the later 1967 GT350 intake. The difference is that the 67 intake has threaded bosses on the passenger side front to mount the coil and threaded boss in the back for smog bracketry. If you want the better flow of the blue thunder intake then that is where that intake excels . If you want a aftermarket intake that looks historically like a 1966 GT350 intake then the Scott Drake one looks historically correct. It should flow at least as good as the original . I thought you should know is all. 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, sorry for the delayed response, I have "notify me of replys" checked but got no Email ? I believe both of the upper A arms and 1 of the lower ones are original.
I thought I had seen a place somewhere that restored A arms with the correct ball joints, rivets etc. but cant remember who.
Thanks Bob for the Choko link, I will contact them about the steering stuff for sure.
TP

Try Bob Wilson at RJ Restorations he has restored some uppers and lowers for me and did a extremely good job.  https://www.rjcars.com/ Tell him I said hi.

Im about to start redoing my front suspension/steering. Is there a best choice (most orig looking) kit for this project ?
Thanks, TP

Good points made by all posting so far. Chockostang  http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/    specialize in Mustang steering and brake components. and may be able to provide you with restored original or nice used that needs restored if you want to tackle that part yourself. He is a good guy IMO tell him I said hi.

I have a new unused horn button for a 66 GT350 factory deluxe wheel for sale . It has been on my shelf for a long time as the date on the back of the package indicates. This horn button was made by California Pony Car but has been out of production for many years now. No one currently makes a replacement which makes it tough for those restoring a 66 GT350.  It is identical to the factory cap in all aspects once installed. I kept this for the possibility of needing it for a car in the future but that hasn't happened so I am going to take a chance that I will not need it and go on and sell it. 500.00 plus 20.00 shipping to US address only. PM me with any questions. Thank you for looking.

Twice I posted basic questions on this car and seller deleted them. Asked what was correct/incorrect on the engine, carb, block, etc. Also if the shoulder harnesses are there and if the AC was functioning. I'd be concerned if the seller doesn't want to answer questions. 
Looking for another driver quality Shelby and obviously this isn't the one

I think that your questions are still there although unanswered.

I am not exactly sure what I am looking for. I have a 67 Mustang with a K code 4 speed tranny. Do I need an inspection plate cover or do I need the large plate that separates the transmission and the motor? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

For the 67 K code 4 speed you need the block plate that goes between the bell housing and the block. Other then the hole for the crank and starter it is a solid plate.

Small blocks with manuals had a one piece (not separate inspection plate or hole) engine plate that separated the engine and transmission bell housing. Is that what you are searching for?

He might be confusing it with the automatic inspection cover that bolts to the different automatic block plate .

I've been searching the web for NOS "Sequential Tail light housings/buckets/mounts,"

 would anyone happen to have any pictures of them, NOS or Pristine condition? Tips and tricks to restore them are always welcomed and highly encouraged.

Thanks
Joel

The short version is scrub the dickens out of them with various stiff plastic brush down to a tooth brush for the hard to get spots. Next step is to go over the diecast assembly with wire wheel cleaner or comparable acid based wheel product. Wear gloves as this stuff is hard on your skin. This is not the only way but how I do them.

For '65 and '66 GT350s, did SAI use a production order similar to the '67 builds? If so, are those available? Thanks.

If you mean DSO sheets then yes but they are extremely rare. They were seldom left in the cars like the 67 models.

Stable is a good product and I use it for it's intended purpose which is eliminating moisture and stabilizing unused fuel in the gas tank. Stabil doesn't however raise the octane for those with higher compression engines that ping under load and do not want to retard timing drastically .

The plugs in the metering blocks can be a pain to take out which is why many rebuilders bypass taking that step.