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I thought they were all 2 speed.

Bingo.

two speeds
Streak or Smear

Good one . Thanks for making me smile.

thanks for the replies,
I dont have alum polish , do you think its safe to use good old fashion (turtle wax) chrome polish cream to do this test?

thanks for the replies,
I dont have alum polish , do you think its safe to use good old fashion (turtle wax) chrome polish cream to do this test?

I suppose if you tested your polish on something tarnished aluminum and it rubbed off black on the rag then  you could expect the same result on a bare aluminum quarter window trim piece.

Hi Brandosaac,

Because the original black trim pieces were plastic, not fiberglass like the Branda Kit, yours are likely original because they are plastic.  Because of their age, they tend to warp and that is when owners like to replace with new straight pieces.  The aluminum molding is probably original as well, guilt by association to the plastic pieces.  The plexiglass if original probably has some grazing, showing it age and authenticity.  I'd say, base on your story and the what you have shown us, they are original.  Value is a harder one to determine.  At least a couple of hundred dollars.  Maybe double a Branda kit.

Hope that helps.

Cory

The exterior aluminum trim That SA used was Brite dip anodized from the MFG. That is a special type of clear anodizing the automotive industry uses on aluminum trim that protects but does not dull the shine like if you did a typical clear anodizing job on them. If you can noticeably polish the trim up with aluminum polish (black on a rag) then they are not anodized . The clear anodizing barrier keeps that from happening in the same way the anodizing keeps the aluminum surface underneath the clear from reacting with the air and oxidizing(turning dull).

Rickmustang, thank you. Does mine look original to you?

      TIA, Roy

The cross hatch texture in the background is the tell that it is original. The repros have a smooth background.

 A tag that is probably more ridiculous on a 68 or for that matter any concours Shelby or most cars from the 60's than the "Caution Fan" sticker is the white with red tag on the battery terminal. Those have been around since New Castle Battery company who was the original MFG of the repro Autolite battery started reproducing them over 30 years ago . The tag has now been reproduced because it has been around for so long that some uninformed people have forgotten the origin of the tag and mistakenly thought that it was Ford original and needed to be reproduced. New Castle Battery company put that tag on for liability reasons as a good business practice. The tag did not come on original Autolite batteries from the 60's.

Pat not sure if this is what your looking for. A picture of one would help.


https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/d/vancouver-ford-mustang-oem-lugnuts/7911853728.html

Those are not for a 67 Shelby Magstar wheel. That ad reads - Fits 2015-2025 Mustang GT, GT350, GT350R & GT500 .

Were these installed on the Ford assembly line? Or were they swapped when the cars were completed by AO Smith?

The build sheets show a conventional Mustang spring was used when building the car at the Ford assemblyline.  The Mustang springs were swapped out at AO Smith during conversion.

The vast majority were special leaf springs that had the bottom and two upper a different length compared to regular Mustang . The typical 69/70 Shelby bottom leaf was marked S9MS 5560 A. There are two other different markings that I am aware of also. Yes as Pete mentioned they were marked with a sprayed on white marking encompassing the spring eye. 

You have already admitted you wanted to make the intake look more normal .With that said if you are thinking of buying then you will want to pass on the polished one. If you already own it and just don't want to spend any time or money for a decent looking intake then blast with a aggressive abrasive (think course enough to remove heavy rust) so as to rough up the surface like original fresh cast and you will get what you will get.  After blasting needless to say the engineering numbers and trademark will be fainter then they already are because of the polishing process. It will at least not look shiny smooth.The best course of action in the scenario that you already own the shiny intake and you want it to look normal is to sell it and buy one that hasn't been polished.

Its not a "Shelby" part

++++1

What are the correct pieces needed on the top for the line going to the gaugees? Are they just plain brass connectors? Is there a kit u can get anywhere?

The fittings are steel plated zinc silver not brass. The fittings consists typically of 3 pieces. You can not get a kit just anywhere. As an alternative you could plate the brass fittings zinc silver to mimic what the steel fitting looks like.

Anyone know which magazine this article is from? Probably from the 80s.

Thanks

FYI at least the engine shots in the article are not vintage and should not be used for historical accuracy in case someone reading may get that impression.

Hi All,
  I picked up this early 289 hipo carb and I believe matching intake over the winter. The carb and tag read C40F-AL.  The date code is 4D on both carb and intake. I noticed the carb has tube sticking down into right front venturi, which is different than other C40F-AL carbs I have seen. Can anyone tell me what this carb and intake came off of as I believe its too early for a mustang. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Ed

You may want to check the Bob Manell book.

Any recommendations to get my hinges restored on my 68 500? The driverside has play and the corners wont pull down anymore.

Thank you
Bill

This is only tightened and not restoring but slop can sometimes be taken out of the hinge by tightening up the rivet. The short answer is to take off the hinge then place the loose rivet portion on a strong steel backing surface like an anvil or similar and hammer the remit tighter. I use a tool the shape of the cross rivet design.


Cross hatch depot the remit tohammer