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Interesting thread.  My Dec production '68 was purchased unmolested in '77.  Antenna is on left rear.  Curious to me as front and rear mounting may have different cable length.  If rear mount, I'd expect the cable would have been routed prior to carpet and seat install.

I have always set Ford dual point dwell as, 27 deg each, with 34 deg combined.
For an OEM "look" with much improvement, now use an All-In-One vacuum advance distributor.  Summit, Jegs, and MSD all sell the same product.

To use an apt expression, this guy needs to get a life.

I don't even know where the original tires, wheels, and hub caps are that came with my 68 when I bought it with slots in 77.

Oh, if that goober wasn't such a poser, he'd know "Shelby" text was emblazoned on dozens of unrelated items in the late 70s.  Hell, I had hose same, plastics wheel centers on a set of Auto Drag wheels.

Years ago, I would frequent area car shows. Indifferent to trophies.  Later, gladly paying the registration fee to support sponsoring charities.  Find a place to park on the show grounds.  Walk around, say hello to friends, suffer the intolerable do-whop music, and leave.  I'd rather drive my car than try to impress strangers.  Always puzzled by the old guy, sitting alone in a lawn chair with a professional placard extolling it's one of the 2000, in 200,000.

interesting thread with very knowledgeable input.  Curious, at BJ and Mecum auctions do buyers closely scrutinize a restored automobile?  Having toured the cars at a BJ auction about 25 years ago, there was no way to get under a car to see what being bought, or even hear it run.  Got the impression buyers were focused on a fresh paint job and underhood detailing.  Bizarre.

In my world, I'd want to make compression and vacuum tests, then a highway road trip. Noting a stable coolant temp. Then a lift inspection for leaks and collision repairs. Block originality is pretty low on the list.  An honest to God, original, pristine, side oiler upgrade being the holy grail.  But that's just me.

Thanks for the valued advise.  I will follow up on both options.

About 25 years ago I had my original starter rebuilt in The Eaton Rapids/Lansing, Mich. area.  The rebuilder upgraded components.  It has worked flawlessly on my high compression side oiler.  Even when hot cranking for an extended period when flooded.

Now undertaking another build with need for an equal quality, OEM style starter.  Need not be concours. This is for an honest to God, doomsday vehicle to be operated in the most remote regions.  Is anyone left doing this caliber of work that has glowing references?

Is this what it's come to?  Shipping a Holley carb to fix a flip'n leaky gasket?  No wonder there's so many God-like, automotive reality shows.

How would this be any different than the cars we own driven in slushy, salt laden, winter roads for a year or two?  I'm old enough to recall five year old vintage Mustangs rotted do badly they wouldn't pass mandated, safety inspections.  Also, what's the deal with "neutralizing" salt spray?  Last I knew, salt readily dissolved in clean water.  Years of running on Cape Cod beaches proved that.  No question it should have the driveline flushed, interior removed and wiring harness replaced.

Great question.  I purchased my '68 GT500 for $3000 in 1977.  It has been huge source of joy for 47 years.  Every element has ben the very best money can buy.  Including a brand new, unassembled, side oiler engine built by Roush in '79 to mirror the Lemans winning GT40.  When it came time for a money-no-option, full restoration 20 years ago the brake line choice was clear, Classic Tube. The fit is perfect. Perhaps more important, both the nut and tube are stainless.  No worries of a soft, carbon steel nut rotting in place on a either the master or wheel cylinders.  The trick is, necessary to use nickel anti seize on both the treads and surfaces between the flare and nut.  Or they will gall and prevent proper tightening.  Just this summer, I took the car out of storage after 14 years. A full inspection found no flaws or leaks anywhere.  Last Saturday, a douchebag cut me off in heavy traffic. The perfect brakes prevented a serious crash.

Etiquette dictates there is a proper way to do this.  Discover who the attorney was for the gentleman that passed.  Essentially, who drew up his will.  Then, contact that attorney to reach out to the heirs.

My close friend and car enthusiast passed suddenly with no will.  The descending vultures. including relatives he despised, reinforces my disdain for humanity.

In the late '70s while working at Ford T&C I spent my free time hanging out at a couple of the more successful engine builders in Livonia.  Was told the benefit of using the turkey pan was to keep the intake charge cool as possible.

I think you are mixing up two different pan terms. The Turkey pan is normally used to describe a enclosure around the carb which resembles a thanksgiving turkey pan. It is seen mostly used on competition Cobras to keep the cooler air from the hood scoop near the carb . By contrast the sheet metal heat shield underneath the intake is to keep oil away from the high temperature at the bottom of the intake heat riser crossover. The bottom of the intake becomes so hot (not cool)from the heat riser crossover that the oil can break down and burn leaving a coke deposit residue.

I've seen the carb insulator barrier you describe, not knowing what it was called.  The lifter galley pan used on Clevelands and FEs was also called a turkey pan within Ford engine manufacturing plants.  Combined with blocking off the crossover is effective in reducing intake manifold temperature.  Objective being, an attempt at
 suppressing detonation.  Today, air gap intake manifolds seem to fill that role. 

In the late '70s while working at Ford T&C I spent my free time hanging out at a couple of the more successful engine builders in Livonia.  Was told the benefit of using the turkey pan was to keep the intake charge cool as possible.

Agree with all mentioned.
That said, the Monte Carlo bar is perhaps the most useful upgrade for a "driver" caliber car.
The straight bar fits perfect with original dual point distributor and dual quad intake.

I'll pass.  Only venture where my HK is welcome.