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Good morning,

I realize this is an ancient thread but I'm doing research on this car. I've seen this car for sale essentially all year (SFM6S1825). It may be that it's been on the market for many years having remained unsold. Would appreciate anyone's thoughts on her. FSBO now on a popular collector car website so she's easy to find.

Best regards ~ Don

Hi Don

Here is some information on 6s1825

By the way those black and gold bad boys are great cars to pursue and purchase, some even call them blue chip investments. But always remember that they are meant to be driven.

One of the "real ones".

Best of luck on your endeavors

WOW, spent 13 Days in Transit to the Dealer and needed new Brakes at just 9000 Miles?

[Posi.  Regular Gas.  This was back in the Mid 80's.  Un-Capped that beast sounded like a Top Fuel Dragster.  I really miss that Car.  Got pulled every weekend doing 20 to 25 over and never got a Ticket]
How did you manage to run regular gas with 13 To one compression ratio?

VTGT500,
About 20 years latter I took advantage of CNC ported Edlebrock heads with JE pistons to suit chamber profile.  Also upgraded to Dove shafts and rocker and with a 294S cam.  Three days on a SuperFlow dyno tweaking air:fuel and timing on pump gas best we could garner was 483 HP.  In the ball park of what's written about the GT40 program.
Why do built FE engines seem to struggle to get much past 1.1 horsepower per cubic inch? 483hp seems awfully low to me for a built motor but I have read similar figures about other motors also. On the dyno, my 302 cubic inch motor with just 9.9 compression, but running 2x4 holley's made four hundred horsepower. Doesn't seem right that a 427, with 125 cubic inches more than my engine made only an extra 83 horsepower.

      Roy

I ran regular Pump Gas and it was my daily Driver.  I believe we still had Leaded Gas back then and I would sometimes pour in that 104+ additive.  Other than that, I don't know what to tell you.  If it sat for a couple Hours, I would have to pump the Peddle about 15 times to wet the Cylinders to get it to turn over and crank.


 

We had a guy in my town who used to Race Thunderbolts and he was THE FE Guy.  He built the Race Engine that I bought for my 70 R-Code Mach 1.  It had 720 HP to the Rear Wheels, mega Compression and 13-1 Forged Pop Up Pistons.  He had to plug a couple of the Oil Passages to boost the Oil Pressure.  The Engine was put in my friends Factory 427 Fairlane (65-66) but he kept blowing the Automatic Transmission up so he decided to switch things up and sold me the Drive Train.  I put the Engine in front of a Top Loader and never lost a Race.  I miss those Days.

Quick question 720 HP at the rear wheels

That's +/- 850 to 900+ HP

How did you get this cat to hook up and with 13:1 what fuel was used ?

Thank you

very sticky N50 15 Rear Tires with 3:50 Posi.  Regular Gas.  This was back in the Mid 80's.  Un-Capped that beast sounded like a Top Fuel Dragster.  I really miss that Car.  Got pulled every weekend doing 20 to 25 over and never got a Ticket. 

We had a guy in my town who used to Race Thunderbolts and he was THE FE Guy.  He built the Race Engine that I bought for my 70 R-Code Mach 1.  It had 720 HP to the Rear Wheels, mega Compression and 13-1 Forged Pop Up Pistons.  He had to plug a couple of the Oil Passages to boost the Oil Pressure.  The Engine was put in my friends Factory 427 Fairlane (65-66) but he kept blowing the Automatic Transmission up so he decided to switch things up and sold me the Drive Train.  I put the Engine in front of a Top Loader and never lost a Race.  I miss those Days.

Not mine, Looks nice.  It's in San Diego.

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/d/san-diego-1968-ford-mustang-bullit-code/7896347386.html

If you can find one out of a 1957 Ford Car, they are really Narrow.

Those Numbers seem extremely low to me.

The orange lid I posted is unrestored. The picture on the C9WB decal is a Cougar body

In reply #5 is also an original sticker from a 69 Shelby. If you take notice all 69 jack instructions have an illustration that shows what looks to be a Cougar quarter panel but on certain versions has Mustang front fenders, head light buckets and front bumpers. Unlike the example cob428 posted with the Cougar front end. Guess for the illustrator it was just a short cut.

In the picture below you can compare the upper left jack instruction decal from one of the unrestored 69 Shelby examples I have,  with the lower right (C9WB-B) with the space saver from a Mustang I have on file. Notice the differences in the illustration. Sorry for the poor picture (didn't take the time to go back through all the pictures to find a better one at this moment) but you can still see the difference. Of course there are numerous other differences - just focusing on the "Mustang" verses "Cougar" reference I made above.




As far as application and usage I've got two different versions that show up on original 69's but the majority are the ones Bob pointed out with the pad in the illustration. It appears IMO that some or all of the early cars got an earlier version of the jack instructions.

A 1967 Mustang at that.  No Fender Marker Light.

CJ Pony Parts and NPD is out as well.

BUT, one on Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/127108418607?_skw=1966+Shelby+GT+350+Steering+Wheet+Hub&itmmeta=01K9ZJ2M27BQPMXBSYW498KQGE&hash=item1d98408c2f:g:ihcAAeSwEw5oIosz&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cJpbYt7n%2FnDiBEDcWtyGmz4lCIujuc4F4vw5kazgfCbNdGnbdPMmDFdWe4S8MaT9aYSKxh9ik4q%2Fgx2kxg3LoihRRurmks2T%2F5jCSIgCzrKEQXdOQANNuXhqSDlCVHC9ucR%2Fc3tuV2zhlGZ0oHcFsoWTaor8GvGXE7md0PajBAH6GlLUe2HjBM0iIHMe%2Bq6Be1IvEJ2hkSVbiXBXdr8GNcn7rx%2B2lLurdAjsa0S41k5oDGCX6pqe3quXzzgRINIOxnejomn6AEC8giWHYRcD5FPryMoCQyDqnqfKWbjMNf0MIywcb%2B8XmoC1JLodwd1t4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6TCivLPZg

About 40 Years ago I rescued a Car Show Icon from a Junk Yard.  It is a 1960 Ford Thunderbird like no other ever built.  Back in the Mid 60's this Car was highly modified for that time.  It was cut in half in Three Places and welded back together making it about 2.5 Feet Shorter which is why I call it "LITTLE BIRD".  When I rescued it, it was in Brown Primer as a rolling shell, no Drivetrain, no Interior, many Parts missing and the Wiring all cut up.  I got driving and even entered it into a couple Shows before I stupidly sold it back in the early 90's.  30 Years later I got it back rescuing it again, this time from a Field.  After 40 Years now, all the Body Work needs to be redone so, O need to strip the Car down and have it Blasted,  I keep hearing about a Primer that I can spray the Car with after blasting and then do the Body Work over it.  Any body know about that, used it?

Photo #1, Me working on it about 35 Years ago.  Photo #2 How the Car looks NOW.  Photo #3A full size 1960 Thunderbird.

Yes, I see the same kind of angst, frustration, and consternation in my Corvette world these days. The older people, like me, who have been judged, been judges, and taught and experienced in the "correct" way to do things and fixated on "originality" and "correctness" see things that just curl our hair. I judged some cars at our Frisco, Texas NCRS regional meet a couple of weeks ago in our new "Open" Class of judging, where originality and decades of experience and research on a standard of "as delivered from the factory" means absolutely nothing. The old guard was totally confused and some angry about cars not even remotely based on that standard being allowed and winning awards.

Likewise with the current restomod craze, where beat up, trashed out, non-original (and some original) drivetrain cars are having the bodies being yanked off frames and used for a $250K-$350K car, like the iconic '63 SWC, so things like this sell for near $100K these days.

The younger folks not trained, schooled, and experienced in our "all correct, all original" ways are setting up a market these days that focuses more on cars and coffee, and local car shows than organized judging like SAAC and NCRS do. They are proud of their cars and are quite willing to ignore the "correct" way and just enjoy their cars in their own way and pay 6 figures to do it, as they can afford it and most couldn't care less about resale, investment values, etc. We need to get used to it, they are the ones driving the market today, not us.

My Rebuttal to that.  Back in the Beginning when the Cobras and the Shelby Mustangs were first built, I have many Photos (some where) of those Cars back in the 60's and 70's as I am sure many of you have, where those Cars have been highly Modifies and Customized, including Engine Swaps.  It was the thing to do at the time.  Now, I know that THAT still happens to some of the First Gen Shelby Mustangs for Track Use and even for the Car Shows, Color Changes, Interior Changes, Engine Mods and Swaps, Suspension Up Grades and even Wheels & Tires.  I will even bet that it will still happen 20 Years from now, as long as the Cars are affordable, the Mods will continue. 

SAAC 3 at Pasadena Hilton.



L-R Howard Pardee, Rick Kopec, Jim Cowles, Bob Keyes.

Cars were in parking structure, so no good for takin pictures.


Need help with driver's name.

Is that, the ever Elusive 1 of 1 Rear Engine Shelby Camper there in the background?

I don't mean to be critical but WOW that's a lot of Undercoating.

Typical of up north dealers back in the day.... all new inventory was undercoated prior to hitting the dealer inventory sheet.

My GT-350 was sold new at Frontier Ford in Niagara Falls, NY and the original owner immediately took it to their home in Tallahassee, FL. It was, and still is slathered with that wonderful stuff.....

Who was the original Owner, I live in Tallahassee.

I don't mean to be critical but WOW that's a lot of Undercoating.

Yes, easy fix.