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..... or a Shelby tag

A tag by itself has no provenance. It's only a tag that at one time was attached to a Mustang that went through SA. The registrar can undoubtably match up the SA VIN with the Ford VIN but without the owner being able to cite the Ford VIN the car does not exist.

Buying a car you have not seen is like playing Russian Roulette.

So is commenting on one. If the guy says you're wrong and thinks your comment cost him a sale you could be on the hook for some lawyer fees. Your comment should have been "I have experience with this type suspension and it APPEARS there is a problem with the spring." Leave it there and let the BUYER do his due diligence.

Things I don't need "holy grail" .....

It doesn't become a grail car until he's hyping the sale. When he's buying it's a POS.

There is a new Texan on the scene - John Clay Wolfe. Seems like a decent honest guy. I'm worried he's going to go to the dark side hanging around with DC & RR. https://www.youtube.com/@john_clay_wolfe
He does need a lot of education and some decent mechanics - watch his Coupe video with the "Cobra" engine.

DC is probably bidding on it .......

You mean it's a "grail" car?

Swap the gear from your current dist. You know that works with the cam.
There is a specific way to wire the Pertronix so it doesn't fail. Check their website for the diagrams.
Pertronix DO NOT like solid core plug wires.
Coils are 6V (yeah I know some are marked 12V). They get 12V to start from the solenoid. The pink wire in the Mustang harness is a resistor wire that runs the coil on 6V. A lot of Pertronix problems come from using that wire.
A high voltage coil will work on points too - get an epoxy one rather than oil filled. The current condenser market has a lot of bad product floating around - carry a couple spares.
I've got one of the early flat top HP Mallory dual points and a set of NOS points and condenser. I've been reluctant to get rid of it because as you said "They worked. They won races as part of a system back in the 60s."

Real deal SoCal GT500 for 40 grand what's not to like. Yeah missing some pieces but not needing to weld in a bunch of ChiCom repro sheet metal will make up for that.

Please do not move to Tennessee, we are not that great....wink wink

Get ready for a massive influx.

In-N-Out Burger has expanded to Tennessee, marking its first locations east of the Mississippi River. The first Tennessee restaurants opened in December 2025 in Lebanon and Antioch, with additional locations following in Murfreesboro and Franklin. A major $125.5 million eastern hub is also being established in Franklin to support further expansion.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVJbe_m9jvA&t=28s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bP1L-tktPyA

Here is an image of 5R002.  Looks like a die cast chrome hub with 16 wood wheel.

Is that in period or later?

I think the aluminum washer was only used on the first adapters. I'll have to look at my orig diecast adapter & wheel. I don't remember if the wheel has holes or slots. It doesn't have a washer.

Pretty sure Jerry Schwarz did the fender modifications on R Models. I've personally never heard anyone who worked in the Mustang race shop talk about Jim building cars.

I've talked about the goings-on around the race shop at LAX many times since my 66 Group 2 was built by those guys. Have also talked to Ronnie Sampson quite a bit.

Ted Sutton & Pete Brock seem to remember him since they teamed up as OVC. Those original 3 cars were built at Carter St. I'm certain somewhere there is a list of which cars were finished before the move to the airport.

The backward hood scoop: Yeah, testing proved that the car was faster that way,

    Not disputing this, but if so, did "testing" (do we actually have any documentation?) absolutely establish why?   

    Scott.

I have a copy of the Ford Aeronautics report somewhere (it is online.....somewhere). I don't think any "real" testing occurred beyond what Brock knew would work. Here is a link to the hood Brock designed for the OVC car - https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=23209.msg175351#msg175351  I was at Willow when they tested a second one without the extra vents. They tufted the hood and filmed it with a drone - it worked as Brock predicted.

Did not Jerry Swartz do the R model rear re-radius mods?

On the production cars. To these specs. Anybody ever come across a set of fiberglass R Model fenders?

I think I already know the answer to this BUT, If 365 People were to buy a One Day Time Share on a House in Florida, could they Register their Vehicle/Boat/Motorhome using that Address of the Time Share?

Yes but you run into trouble in that it's not your permanent address. I think most states have a % of time in each location. Also where you vote and what state your DL is from. I used a friends address in NV for years when I had cars that would not pass CA smog. If I got stopped I'd explain that the car was usually in my hanger in NV but I'd brought it here to do some maint then taking it back. Always worked - but it wasn't a million dollar asset I was trying to evade taxes on. I'm tempted to buy a cheap "vacation place" where I say I live 51% of the time in OK and have the wife use her tribal citizenship to register the cars for less than $30 each.

I had to fill out paperwork stating that the car was leaving the state of CA. They did not want me to avoid paying the sales tax.

Today the rule is if the tires touch a CA street you need to pay the sales tax. The only way to avoid it is to ship it out of the state and they'll want the shipping doc.

For those reading, this is why I always remind those (before you sell the car) to write down the buyer"s name and address to forward THAT to the registrar, to keep the ownership trail up-to-date.

Unfortunately this is usually the end of someone's Shelby involvement and they aren't going to spend the time. Best is just tell the new owner to do it. Maybe all the current owners should put a note in the glovebox with the registrars email and SAAC info.

Also I doubt an insurance company would have any records on a car you sold years ago.