Messages

Ford produced C8AE H pump for an FE (390-428) with 8C26 date (March 26, 1968).

A very clean casting with well defined ID and date code. Professionally rebuilt.

Appropriate for a concours car. $350 + shipping

Bill Collins
Harrisburg, PA
717-648-6600
bill@bcfords.com

This is the panel that supports the fiberglass lower front valence and provides stable mounting for the fog lights.

It is unusual, being for an air conditioned car. Brackets are welded onto the underside to mount the oil cooler that was installed on cars with A/C. To my knowledge, this version has never been reproduced.

An original in undamaged condition. $750. + shipping.

Bill Collins
Harrisburg, PA
717-648-6600
bill@bcfords.com

I have an NOS one C7ZZ 2005 A in the Ford box that I will sell. PM, text or email me for details
Bill Collins
717-648-6600
bill@bcfords.com

No difference except for 3/8" or 5/8" nose cone offset to the flywheel between automatic and manual transmissions.

Most automatics and cars use the shallower 3/8" offset to the starter ring on the flywheel. Most trucks use the 5/8" offset, specifically with manual transmissions.

Best practice is to observe the engineering number cast into the existing nose cone; the starter must be removed to see it. If the number on the replacement is different, the cone from the original starter can be transferred, as they are interchangable. Check this before turning in your existing starter as a core!

[genuine Ford/Motorcraft]

Ford typically identified its starters with a paint stamped engineering number rather than a stamping. This number is often now illegible or has been removed in the course of a previous rebuild by a remanufacturer.

If your starter is the original, you may want to consider repairing it. What is the symptom? If it clicks and makes a whirring noise but does not engage, the problem is likely the drive.

This component is inexpensive and easily replaced. Use only a genuine Ford/Motorcraft unit! The correct one for a 1967 289 is Ford p/n C6VY11350A or Motorcraft sales number SD175. There is one available here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/358342741701

If this is not the problem, I would next try to find a specialty automotive electrical repair shop and have it fixed.

Try to avoid buying a replacement - this path is fraught with potential problems. Most starters now being offered, even by national auto parts chains, are generic applications with offshore build quality. Plus, their application listings often do not consider the difference in nose cone depth between a manual or automatic transmission. I have been told of buyers returning units two or three times as "the computer says it is the correct one" but it does not fit. 

I sent you a PM

Stanley Springs is located here in Harrisburg,PA. They are a full service spring and repair facility in business since 1922.

I have been doing business with them since the late 1960's, most recently to dearch the rear springs in '66 GT350 that I had acquired as an uncompleted restoration. As always, I was very pleased with the results.

I could not find a direct web site but here is a link you may find useful:
https://reviews.birdeye.com/stanley-springs-156052025938514

Being as Harrisburg is midway between the major car shows in Carlisle and Hershey, you may know someone from your area attending those events who could hand carry them to Stanley.

Yes, and some of it really "Grabs" you. 

Remainder of Muscle Cars magazine article with KR #3588

The lead photo and content originally appeared in Muscle Car magazine in 1986, so the article you are referring to would have appeared after that. See attachments.

The car is '68 KR #3588. More about it here:
https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=24004.msg180043#msg180043

It has recently been refreshed with various exterior details returned to as original and remains available for sale.

Bill Collins
bill@bcfrords.com
717-648-6600

I suggest you contact Bill Heeley in Maryland, who has been rebuilding and restoring Ford shifters for decades. I highly recommend him. He is very knowledgeable and a known resource who has the technical expertise to correctly supply what you need for your application.  His card is attached.

Tom,
These may be helpful - from the factory assembly diagrams.
Bill

Original - requires some repair to the parking light mounting area. Can deliver to Carlisle All Ford Nationals June 5-7 or SAAC 51 August 27-30.
$2000.

Bill Collins
Harrisburg, PA
717-648-6600
bill@bcfords.com

[Oh, we lost real money at $40K".]

This entire auction was a joke. The seller should have been laughing all the way to the bank.

but when a car doesn't meet its reserve how do we know in fact the top bid was real? I'm not accusing anything but it isn't rare for people to bid up cars for friends or an auction house( not Bat) bid a car up to the reserve. I watched Wayne Carini say that on a car he brought to pebble beach and at an RM auction stating on his TV show that there were no buyers in the room and the auction house can do that. BTW car didn't sell to the high bidder after auction either.

I will relate one of my several personal bad auction experiences. In about 2014 I consigned a very nice 427 powered '69 restomod CJ Mach I to Mecum Kissimmee. Got a Saturday number and hauled it down there from PA.

The car crossed the block over an hour behind the appointed time, due largely to the auction inserting several "xxx.1" lots into the rotation, probably to give favored consignors prime time exposure. By the time the Mach reached the block, the bidder money was on its way out the door.

The car "bid" to within about $5K of my reserve, which I recall was $60K. As it was being pushed off the block, I approached one of the ring men and suggested that perhaps we might approach the last bidder and try to close the gap. His response to me was "Oh, we lost real money at $40K".

Sent you a PM
Bill