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The voltage regulator and the charging system checked out fine but found two other issues.  I found the ground strap on back of the rt. cylinder head loose and the stud on the oil pressure sending unit was loose.  I was able to tighten the stud without letting the post turn. The oil pressure gauge no longer erratic or dropping to zero.

Took my '69 GT500 out today and it started doing something I've never seen before.  Normally the oil pressure reads about 75 cold and keeps 40-50 when hot and the needle is real steady. Today I noticed it was about 30 cold and the needle wasn't steady. Cruising at 60 it was 40 but when I hit the throttle it got erratic and when to zero. Panic at first but noticed at the same time the ammeter was erratic as well. At idle both needles were erratic in sync. Is this a known problem? Ground or voltage issue? Any prior experience will be helpful before I start trying to diagnose it. 

My first thought is voltage . Have your regulator tested.

I replaced the regulator this spring. So that's probably a good place to start.

Took my '69 GT500 out today and it started doing something I've never seen before.  Normally the oil pressure reads about 75 cold and keeps 40-50 when hot and the needle is real steady. Today I noticed it was about 30 cold and the needle wasn't steady. Cruising at 60 it was 40 but when I hit the throttle it got erratic and when to zero. Panic at first but noticed at the same time the ammeter was erratic as well. At idle both needles were erratic in sync. Is this a known problem? Ground or voltage issue? Any prior experience will be helpful before I start trying to diagnose it. 

#3097

Correction - it was #3097... not much left of it.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Found the date code under the crud. They are correct for the car.

Last week I ordered a Magnum 500 wheel and tire package from CJ. The reproduction wheels are decent quality but not impressed with the tires. They are all over two years old, dated 1824 and 2424. Called customer service and their response was oh well, they are still new. Their policy is any tire up to three old are still considered new.
Just an FYI to question them on dates if anyone is considering buying a set.

Are there any date codes or anything specific on the front calipers I should look for? It's time to rebuild or replace them and not sure if mine are original or if it's even worth the effort of rebuilding them.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-shelby-mustang-gt500-31/

The comments alone are well worth checking out the listing.  They won't put you to sleep.....

I bought my BOSS 9 from a woman whose husband died in the car when he was breaking in the engine after a rebuild. It sat for many years until she finally decided to part ways with it. She said she heard it running about a 1/2 hour and it stopped. He didn't shut it down, seized from a spun bearing.  But yet we all do it at times.

Your story is wild!  Do you ever on occasion catch any strange vibes from the car?
Never any weird feelings but often thought about the guy when working on it.

I bought my BOSS 9 from a woman whose husband died in the car when he was breaking in the engine after a rebuild. It sat for many years until she finally decided to part ways with it. She said she heard it running about a 1/2 hour and it stopped. He didn't shut it down, seized from a spun bearing.  But yet we all do it at times.

It's unusual that the MSO still exists. They are to be surrendered to DMV when the car is first registered. They are the birth certificate and the title replaces them. Or is NY a non title state that only issues registration for older model year cars?

I guess the feds have finally settled the "continuation" question. New Cobras are replicas.......

NYS is registration only - no title, pre-1973.  Anything pre-73 there are a few ways to register without the MSO or old registration/paperwork.

SOLD...

What was the purpose of the spring swap? Can't imagine there was much difference in handling since nothing was done to the front spring if I recall.

Does anyone have any recommendations on good rebuild kits for a C6? The shop I dealt with for the last 30 years closed last fall when the owner retired. I've done a lot of rebuilds over the years but always used the same shop for parts.
 Everything internal checks out, the bands and clutches show little wear (not that I would reuse) but the seals are rock hard from sitting too many years.

Took my 69 GT500 out for a ride this morning and hit the passing gear and it revved but didn't build any speed. Shifts were erratic on the way home and slipped a bit backing in the shop. Figured this would happen at some point due to the age. Did a fluid and filter last summer and it still had the yellow plug in the pan so it was never apart. There wasn't any glitter or much clutch material in the fluid but I keep forgetting these cars are now going on 60 years old and the seals get hard. Unfortunately I know what I'll be doing the next few weeks.
This follows a few days of diagnosing a different issue that drove me crazy. It idled fine and was good at full acceleration but really rough at a steady 1,500/2,500 rpm. The light distributor spring broke the loop off and the advance weight was free to move around.
These cars are supposed to be fun - right?
The water pump in my one Pierce needs to be repacked, My Mach1 is in the middle of replacing the original hoses. Maybe I'm tempted fate by taking my other Pierce out for 40 miles to a cruise night. I mean what else could go wrong....