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That's awesome.... Great track and close to home. For anyone that's never been there it's worth a few extra days to explore some of the amazing scenic waterfalls and winery's along the lake.

They are an easy transmission to rebuild if you are willing to take on the work. If not there is a very good shop in NY that does a lot of classic cars.  Competition transmission in N. Tonawanda. Close to Buffalo
https://www.competitiontransmission.com/

Unusual for them. Must be really busy.

Thanks for the referral but they don't answer their phones, and their mailbox is full. 

They are an easy transmission to rebuild if you are willing to take on the work. If not there is a very good shop in NY that does a lot of classic cars.  Competition transmission in N. Tonawanda. Close to Buffalo
https://www.competitiontransmission.com/

Power steering ram boot. Any Mustang dealer will have these available. Not sure if any vendor has a better quality one or if there is only one supplier.

If you decide to do it you will need to drill the hole out in the firewall where the clutch shaft goes. An expensive fix if you ever decide to restore it for judging.

i see this as a next owner problem

True - but the next buyer may reduce his offer if he needs to pay a shop and extra hour to repair the hole for  concours. I realize a couple hundred isn't a big hit but it all adds up when someone is looking for a car to restore vs a driver.
Since you are not looking for originality consider this - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-cofo-m1ex?seid=srese1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1012069904&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp9vTBhCWARIsANaUrjv8jzz15PRjmgU9gGbqE_YXFyqpHbtWWvCyoVS-d9xKrPm-0qObhGYaAh17EALw_wcB
One thing that Bob missed in his parts list is the rearend. Automatics generally run a taller gear. If you want to retain the performance you'll need to go to a numerically higher gear - Early cars ran a 3.89 with the 4 speed and a 3.50 with the auto. The 5 speed will allow you to run even a 4.11 and still have acceptable revs while cruising down the road.

Last fall I did a swap for a customer with a 67 S code Cougar with a Tremec from Hamlin Motorsport. Supposed to be a complete kit and bolt in. It still needed a few things and the crossmember needed some work to fit, but overall it went together well. Had to cut the shifter hole in the floor a little. A different handle would fit without trimming.
But what a different experience running it through the gears and 5th made it fantastic for cruising at 75-80. Nothing that couldn't be put back to original if you decided to do so. I'd just recommend keeping all the parts removed for the future.

The voltage regulator and the charging system checked out fine but found two other issues.  I found the ground strap on back of the rt. cylinder head loose and the stud on the oil pressure sending unit was loose.  I was able to tighten the stud without letting the post turn. The oil pressure gauge no longer erratic or dropping to zero.

Took my '69 GT500 out today and it started doing something I've never seen before.  Normally the oil pressure reads about 75 cold and keeps 40-50 when hot and the needle is real steady. Today I noticed it was about 30 cold and the needle wasn't steady. Cruising at 60 it was 40 but when I hit the throttle it got erratic and when to zero. Panic at first but noticed at the same time the ammeter was erratic as well. At idle both needles were erratic in sync. Is this a known problem? Ground or voltage issue? Any prior experience will be helpful before I start trying to diagnose it. 

My first thought is voltage . Have your regulator tested.

I replaced the regulator this spring. So that's probably a good place to start.

Took my '69 GT500 out today and it started doing something I've never seen before.  Normally the oil pressure reads about 75 cold and keeps 40-50 when hot and the needle is real steady. Today I noticed it was about 30 cold and the needle wasn't steady. Cruising at 60 it was 40 but when I hit the throttle it got erratic and when to zero. Panic at first but noticed at the same time the ammeter was erratic as well. At idle both needles were erratic in sync. Is this a known problem? Ground or voltage issue? Any prior experience will be helpful before I start trying to diagnose it. 

#3097

Correction - it was #3097... not much left of it.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Found the date code under the crud. They are correct for the car.

Last week I ordered a Magnum 500 wheel and tire package from CJ. The reproduction wheels are decent quality but not impressed with the tires. They are all over two years old, dated 1824 and 2424. Called customer service and their response was oh well, they are still new. Their policy is any tire up to three old are still considered new.
Just an FYI to question them on dates if anyone is considering buying a set.

Are there any date codes or anything specific on the front calipers I should look for? It's time to rebuild or replace them and not sure if mine are original or if it's even worth the effort of rebuilding them.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-shelby-mustang-gt500-31/

The comments alone are well worth checking out the listing.  They won't put you to sleep.....

I bought my BOSS 9 from a woman whose husband died in the car when he was breaking in the engine after a rebuild. It sat for many years until she finally decided to part ways with it. She said she heard it running about a 1/2 hour and it stopped. He didn't shut it down, seized from a spun bearing.  But yet we all do it at times.

Your story is wild!  Do you ever on occasion catch any strange vibes from the car?
Never any weird feelings but often thought about the guy when working on it.

I bought my BOSS 9 from a woman whose husband died in the car when he was breaking in the engine after a rebuild. It sat for many years until she finally decided to part ways with it. She said she heard it running about a 1/2 hour and it stopped. He didn't shut it down, seized from a spun bearing.  But yet we all do it at times.