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I've always used a heat gun on low setting. It softens the adhesive enough to where the stripe/graphic/decal will stretch and pull off slowly. Too much heat it will pull melt and pull apart, not enough and the stripe will snap off in little pieces.  Then clean the residue with a good grease and wax remover.  Not a fan of the 3M wheels, can damage paint at times. 

I kind of wish we could hear what to say after they have some time with the car

Imagine a few months from now the winning bidder still believing they got the better end of the deal, joins SAAC and stumbles across this long post.

This is being sold by Dennis Collins?

Pat

Owned by Dennis? Must be the "Holy Grail"............

Looks like it was hit hard in the left front. Picture of the left front suspension shows the inner fender apron wrinkled really bad. Also wonder how long the fuel line will stay up missing most of the retainers on the floor and axle vent stretched so bad its rear to rip. Both lower rear 1/4's were blended in and the left had the lower section replaced.   

Step one:

They should learn the difference between "concourse" and "concours" and be consistent.


A concourse is a large, open, and often busy, space in a public building—such as an airport terminal, railway station, or shopping mall—where pathways meet and crowds gather or pass through.

Typo on my part. Autocorrect added the "e" on concourse... damnit it did it again concours. I hate all this technology that is supposed to make life easier

Step one:

They should learn the difference between "concourse" and "concours" and be consistent.


A concourse is a large, open, and often busy, space in a public building—such as an airport terminal, railway station, or shopping mall—where pathways meet and crowds gather or pass through.

A Concours (or Concours d'Elegance) is a French term meaning "competition of elegance," referring to prestigious, judged exhibitions of classic or luxury automobiles.

quote]

Listings like this are why dealers get a bad name. https://www.volocars.com/auto-sales/vehicles/19028/1970-ford-mustang-boss-302
I've been looking for a solid driver quality BOSS 302 for a while and came across this one at Volo auto sales. The "Concourse Restored" caught my attention.  It would be easier to list what's correct than what isn't. But what really caught my attention was the undercarriage pictures.  This BOSS must have taken one hell of a hit to have the floors that wrinkled.  I couldn't resist and sent a few emails asking questions and then followed up with a call.  They swore the car is up to concourse standards and everything is correct.  When I questioned the wrinkled floors it was danced around and finally said it was minor and nothing to be concerned with.  I can't imagine someone buying this expecting a really correct car and being told the truth after. 
6 years ago I bought a super nice survivor 70 MACH1 from them. 90% original paint and never touched under the hood.  Had a knowledgeable friend check it out and agreed it was a super clean survivor.  Closed the deal after a week of haggling and it was delivered a few weeks later.  Almost hit the floor when I opened the hood.  They decided to fizz can the entire engine to freshen it up since it had been there a while.  They were like oh well.. after a few weeks of calls and finally threatening action they finally agreed to refund a good chunk of money. 
Still boggles my mind how people will buy cars with never having them checked out.

That's terrible but it could have been a lot worse. Reliable is a good carrier and I bet they will step up and make it right.  Looks like a nice 69. They are great cars and a blast to drive.
I've had issues twice out of at least 100 that I've shipped after selling. A Cougar fell off the truck and was totaled. Buyer ended up very happy, insurance settled for way more than he paid. This summer I sold a 70's Ford van and the driver put it on top of an open hauler and hit a bridge 20 minutes from my place.  Peeled the roof off like a sardine can. Shipper hasn't paid the buyer and it's been 9 months. Both cases buyers went through a broker for the lowest rate.

These are a bit more but they look much better than the design of the modern ones. Bought one for my '69 and it looks great on the car.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/127544836274?itmmeta=01KHVR4XG04E2B95P7ERX02V73&hash=item1db243c0b2:g:MSMAAOSwuwFm6G6e

No matter what you spend on enclosed trailers they are all pretty cheaply made. For mine I just sprayed the underside with Thompson water seal and hit it again every couple years. Seems to be working because it's still good and it's parked in the grass most of the time. Bigger issue is to constantly check for roof leaks.

Seems like a good metal guy, certainly has been there/done that.  Instead of going the full repro parts route, he could set a good example and show how to repair the car with original sheet metal from a SJ parts coupe/NOS pieces.  Done like that, nobody could knock him for the work.

Seeing that the car/restoraration is a marketing tool for a major Mustang parts company I bet they will use as much replacement parts as possible to showcase what they have to offer. Where most owners would go with original or NOS when possible.

Here's my .02 cents for what it's worth...... Last July I bought a '69 GT500 after a year long search. During that time I looked at quite a few cars and did a lot of research. It's best to be prepared when an opportunity presents itself. Learn what is correct, date codes, part numbers,  have a registry-read the history of the car, have an expert lined up that can help you. know what missing parts are going for so you can figure that into the value. Really think about what you want with condition, options and know your limits on what you can do on your own and what it will cost for someone to fix on the car. Personally I avoid auctions and BAT. Why pay a 5-10% premium for the privilege of buying a car. Also there is the paper trail that goes to DMV for the added cost of registration and tax. A private sale on a 55 year old auto is much easier. I never really look at my cars as an investment, we never really know where the market will go. But going in well educated and avoiding all the extra hidden costs of commissions, buyer premiums, transportation, missing parts makes it easier to try and sell if you ever decide to do so.

Bought a few things from them at the end of the year. Had no issue with communication

I've always used agricultural grade molasses / water mix. It does a better job than evaporust and is less expensive.  Works especially well on cast iron.looks like it was just cast after soaking. If the bearings have any sign of rust, replace them.

More back up

Under that bulging hood is an internally stock 4.6-liter, SOHC three-valve V-8 treated to a Ford Racing Power Pack, which kicks the horsepower rating from 300 to 325.

 Torque increases by 10 pound-feet.

 

I have a 2006 Saleen S281 with the 4.6 3-valve that they tweaked with a tune, pullies, exhaust, CAI, etc.  I have to say it is the least impressive V8 Mustang I have ever driven. They are gutless. It's an awesome car to drive, handling is exceptional, ride is super, massive brakes and looks amazing. But HP leaves a lot to be desired.

Million dollar question is how it is on paper? The title should show or expose reality.
Going to be interesting to follow.
R.R.

Listing states " The car is being sold AS and with a Bill of Sale"

When ad states - appears, suggests, from original parts, stories have been shared, individuals no longer with us, without assertion or conclusion I bet most people will be extremely cautious.