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What was the purpose of the spring swap? Can't imagine there was much difference in handling since nothing was done to the front spring if I recall.

Does anyone have any recommendations on good rebuild kits for a C6? The shop I dealt with for the last 30 years closed last fall when the owner retired. I've done a lot of rebuilds over the years but always used the same shop for parts.
 Everything internal checks out, the bands and clutches show little wear (not that I would reuse) but the seals are rock hard from sitting too many years.

Took my 69 GT500 out for a ride this morning and hit the passing gear and it revved but didn't build any speed. Shifts were erratic on the way home and slipped a bit backing in the shop. Figured this would happen at some point due to the age. Did a fluid and filter last summer and it still had the yellow plug in the pan so it was never apart. There wasn't any glitter or much clutch material in the fluid but I keep forgetting these cars are now going on 60 years old and the seals get hard. Unfortunately I know what I'll be doing the next few weeks.
This follows a few days of diagnosing a different issue that drove me crazy. It idled fine and was good at full acceleration but really rough at a steady 1,500/2,500 rpm. The light distributor spring broke the loop off and the advance weight was free to move around.
These cars are supposed to be fun - right?
The water pump in my one Pierce needs to be repacked, My Mach1 is in the middle of replacing the original hoses. Maybe I'm tempted fate by taking my other Pierce out for 40 miles to a cruise night. I mean what else could go wrong....

Bill-
I was just going to post the exact same question.  Last July I bought a 69 GT500 that hadn't been driven much over the last 30 years. The brakes weren't great but worked decent. Over the winter I replaced the original rear hose, fronts were already replaced, wheel cylinders. Rebuilt the Master cylinder, proportioning valve (it was totally seized), caliper pins and boots. Full panic stomp on the pedal and it barely slows down. Pump the pedal a few times, start the car and the pedal goes down a bit like it should. I don't hear a hiss from the booster under the dash and with a vacuum gauge I don't see a leak.

Few more pictures.

The Saleen has a 4.6 SOHC with a 5-speed, 14,700 miles and extremely well maintained and always stored indoors. Paint is original and flawless, not a single chip on the nose. Everything works as it should, carpet and seats look factory fresh. Underneath looks as clean as the rest of the car. Plenty of upgrades, Saleen carbon fiber splitter, upgraded Brembos, lowered about 2", tires, rotor and pads are 3 years old with about a thousand miles in them. Phenomenal ride and handling and about 20hp more than a Mustang GT. New cr cover and binder with receipts and details in the car. Plenty of pictures available if interested.
Beautiful car and an absolute pleasure to drive but too new for my liking, out of space and it needs a new home. No disappointments on the condition of this one. 
$31,500

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=1490916185915959&set=pcb.3961733477461191
Found this article about the 325 cid engine from Tasca Ford. It goes into pretty good detail about the specs of the build. It's possible Ford, Tasca and Shelby were working together on it to some extent.

Pulled the Shelby out of hibernation and the parking brake light is flashing. I never use the brake and it never flashed before. I checked to make sure the plastic tip was on the switch and checked to ensure it wasn't making contact and checked continuity. Also disconnected the wire to the switch and it still flashes. Anything common I should look for before I start digging deeper into it?

My 69 GT500 is running a Petronix 1 with the 1.6 ohm blaster coil. According to the notes from the previous owner it was installed in the 90's (have to read the notes for the exact year). It's wired directly into the original engine wiring harness. I know the tach is accurate since comparing to a diagnostic test. I've driven at least 1,000 miles last season and a couple thousand since the 90's.  With a Pertronix 1 is this something I should worry about?
Also thinking about just converting back to points and not have to worry about it.  But is there a good source for quality points these days? All I hear is that they are all Chinesium junk. Trying to make the car as correct as possible and the last thing I want to do is fry the tach. 

If you don't see a separate wire out to the Pertronix module for its power and instead getting its power through the factory harness at the coil then a high likelihood of problems at some point.

No separate wire.  I'm just going to remove it and go back to stock with points and a yellow top coil. Now to find a good set of points. 

My 69 GT500 is running a Petronix 1 with the 1.6 ohm blaster coil. According to the notes from the previous owner it was installed in the 90's (have to read the notes for the exact year). It's wired directly into the original engine wiring harness. I know the tach is accurate since comparing to a diagnostic test. I've driven at least 1,000 miles last season and a couple thousand since the 90's.  With a Pertronix 1 is this something I should worry about?
Also thinking about just converting back to points and not have to worry about it.  But is there a good source for quality points these days? All I hear is that they are all Chinesium junk. Trying to make the car as correct as possible and the last thing I want to do is fry the tach. 

I've always used a heat gun on low setting. It softens the adhesive enough to where the stripe/graphic/decal will stretch and pull off slowly. Too much heat it will pull melt and pull apart, not enough and the stripe will snap off in little pieces.  Then clean the residue with a good grease and wax remover.  Not a fan of the 3M wheels, can damage paint at times. 

I kind of wish we could hear what to say after they have some time with the car

Imagine a few months from now the winning bidder still believing they got the better end of the deal, joins SAAC and stumbles across this long post.

This is being sold by Dennis Collins?

Pat

Owned by Dennis? Must be the "Holy Grail"............

Looks like it was hit hard in the left front. Picture of the left front suspension shows the inner fender apron wrinkled really bad. Also wonder how long the fuel line will stay up missing most of the retainers on the floor and axle vent stretched so bad its rear to rip. Both lower rear 1/4's were blended in and the left had the lower section replaced.   

Step one:

They should learn the difference between "concourse" and "concours" and be consistent.


A concourse is a large, open, and often busy, space in a public building—such as an airport terminal, railway station, or shopping mall—where pathways meet and crowds gather or pass through.

Typo on my part. Autocorrect added the "e" on concourse... damnit it did it again concours. I hate all this technology that is supposed to make life easier

Step one:

They should learn the difference between "concourse" and "concours" and be consistent.


A concourse is a large, open, and often busy, space in a public building—such as an airport terminal, railway station, or shopping mall—where pathways meet and crowds gather or pass through.

A Concours (or Concours d'Elegance) is a French term meaning "competition of elegance," referring to prestigious, judged exhibitions of classic or luxury automobiles.

quote]

Listings like this are why dealers get a bad name. https://www.volocars.com/auto-sales/vehicles/19028/1970-ford-mustang-boss-302
I've been looking for a solid driver quality BOSS 302 for a while and came across this one at Volo auto sales. The "Concourse Restored" caught my attention.  It would be easier to list what's correct than what isn't. But what really caught my attention was the undercarriage pictures.  This BOSS must have taken one hell of a hit to have the floors that wrinkled.  I couldn't resist and sent a few emails asking questions and then followed up with a call.  They swore the car is up to concourse standards and everything is correct.  When I questioned the wrinkled floors it was danced around and finally said it was minor and nothing to be concerned with.  I can't imagine someone buying this expecting a really correct car and being told the truth after. 
6 years ago I bought a super nice survivor 70 MACH1 from them. 90% original paint and never touched under the hood.  Had a knowledgeable friend check it out and agreed it was a super clean survivor.  Closed the deal after a week of haggling and it was delivered a few weeks later.  Almost hit the floor when I opened the hood.  They decided to fizz can the entire engine to freshen it up since it had been there a while.  They were like oh well.. after a few weeks of calls and finally threatening action they finally agreed to refund a good chunk of money. 
Still boggles my mind how people will buy cars with never having them checked out.