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This happens to me every time I take the Shelby out. Unfortunately my wife wakes me up because she knows I'm having a good dream.

The most unrealistic part is thinking anyone could drive at highway speed around Chicago is comical.

Amazing how much effort we put into recreating something the assembly line workers did in 10 seconds and never thought twice about. I've been following your story and applaud your dedication.

Thanks Bob... Much appreciated. 👍

I'm getting a little touch up work done on the Shelby at a local classic car paint shop. They do good work but want to make sure on the details before I drop it off.
1- front lower valance has a slight crack and getting that repainted. Does the inner side of it get painted deep maroon or something else? Currently it's a satin black on the inner side. I've seen photos of the plant pictures with the front end assembled at paint. So is the mounting hardware to fender aprons painted or natural finish?
2- what is the correct bolt and finish for the fenders to inner aprons?
3- what is the correct paint color for the filler between the front bumper and grille.
I've looked at lot of pictures and did some searching but couldn't find any definitive answers.
I'm only getting the top of the fenders blended from some scratches and the damage to the valance. This has been bugging me since I bought the car.
Thanks ...

That's awesome.... Great track and close to home. For anyone that's never been there it's worth a few extra days to explore some of the amazing scenic waterfalls and winery's along the lake.

They are an easy transmission to rebuild if you are willing to take on the work. If not there is a very good shop in NY that does a lot of classic cars.  Competition transmission in N. Tonawanda. Close to Buffalo
https://www.competitiontransmission.com/

Unusual for them. Must be really busy.

Thanks for the referral but they don't answer their phones, and their mailbox is full. 

They are an easy transmission to rebuild if you are willing to take on the work. If not there is a very good shop in NY that does a lot of classic cars.  Competition transmission in N. Tonawanda. Close to Buffalo
https://www.competitiontransmission.com/

Power steering ram boot. Any Mustang dealer will have these available. Not sure if any vendor has a better quality one or if there is only one supplier.

If you decide to do it you will need to drill the hole out in the firewall where the clutch shaft goes. An expensive fix if you ever decide to restore it for judging.

i see this as a next owner problem

True - but the next buyer may reduce his offer if he needs to pay a shop and extra hour to repair the hole for  concours. I realize a couple hundred isn't a big hit but it all adds up when someone is looking for a car to restore vs a driver.
Since you are not looking for originality consider this - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-cofo-m1ex?seid=srese1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1012069904&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp9vTBhCWARIsANaUrjv8jzz15PRjmgU9gGbqE_YXFyqpHbtWWvCyoVS-d9xKrPm-0qObhGYaAh17EALw_wcB
One thing that Bob missed in his parts list is the rearend. Automatics generally run a taller gear. If you want to retain the performance you'll need to go to a numerically higher gear - Early cars ran a 3.89 with the 4 speed and a 3.50 with the auto. The 5 speed will allow you to run even a 4.11 and still have acceptable revs while cruising down the road.

Last fall I did a swap for a customer with a 67 S code Cougar with a Tremec from Hamlin Motorsport. Supposed to be a complete kit and bolt in. It still needed a few things and the crossmember needed some work to fit, but overall it went together well. Had to cut the shifter hole in the floor a little. A different handle would fit without trimming.
But what a different experience running it through the gears and 5th made it fantastic for cruising at 75-80. Nothing that couldn't be put back to original if you decided to do so. I'd just recommend keeping all the parts removed for the future.

The voltage regulator and the charging system checked out fine but found two other issues.  I found the ground strap on back of the rt. cylinder head loose and the stud on the oil pressure sending unit was loose.  I was able to tighten the stud without letting the post turn. The oil pressure gauge no longer erratic or dropping to zero.

Took my '69 GT500 out today and it started doing something I've never seen before.  Normally the oil pressure reads about 75 cold and keeps 40-50 when hot and the needle is real steady. Today I noticed it was about 30 cold and the needle wasn't steady. Cruising at 60 it was 40 but when I hit the throttle it got erratic and when to zero. Panic at first but noticed at the same time the ammeter was erratic as well. At idle both needles were erratic in sync. Is this a known problem? Ground or voltage issue? Any prior experience will be helpful before I start trying to diagnose it. 

My first thought is voltage . Have your regulator tested.

I replaced the regulator this spring. So that's probably a good place to start.

Took my '69 GT500 out today and it started doing something I've never seen before.  Normally the oil pressure reads about 75 cold and keeps 40-50 when hot and the needle is real steady. Today I noticed it was about 30 cold and the needle wasn't steady. Cruising at 60 it was 40 but when I hit the throttle it got erratic and when to zero. Panic at first but noticed at the same time the ammeter was erratic as well. At idle both needles were erratic in sync. Is this a known problem? Ground or voltage issue? Any prior experience will be helpful before I start trying to diagnose it. 

#3097

Correction - it was #3097... not much left of it.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Found the date code under the crud. They are correct for the car.