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I've gotten some questions on the KR that I should have addressed in the original ad...so I'll give the ad a bump here and add the extra info.

The car has a clear CA title and current CA registration, both in my name.  I know there are variations in how Shelbys are titled, and it doesn't really make any difference, but the KR's title and registration both read "Shelby", not "Ford", and have the entire VIN, including 02389.  No surprises.

I don't have a Marti report, but the Google album includes a copy of a "999 letter" from the Ford Customer Relationship Center, which includes the same information as the "standard" Marti report.

All 5 tires are BFG Radial T/As, 225-60-R15, a bit more than a year old.  All 5 ten spoke wheels are repros from the mid 1980s...from Tony Branda.

The original door panels I'm including are actually very nice, except for the "chrome", which has peeled...and I'm not aware of anyone who can fix that.  If someone values originality, the originals are quite nice, but the repros in the car look better.

GT500KR convertible.  Highland green with white top, black interior, a/c, automatic.  #02389, built 4/30/68 (very early car).  Owned by me for the last 53 years.  California blue plates since '77.  Never before offered for sale, or shown anywhere.  An honest 88K original miles.

Painted in the mid 80s.  A thorough mechanical and sympathetic cosmetic "restoration" in the early 90s, using mostly refurbished original and NOS parts.  New Robbins convertible top with rear glass in the mid 2000s.  Transmission rebuilt at around 65K.  Heads rebuilt at around 82K, including guides, valves, and hardened seats for unleaded gas.  Drivers side head stamped with partial VIN, original short block has assy date stamp of 8D10. Carb and ignition set up to allow 91 octane E10 pump gas. Everything is in excellent condition and works exactly as it should...the original R12 a/c, the pop/tilt wheel, the sequential signals, the power top, the clock, the tach, the radio...everything. ..no sorting of any kind required.  It's an extremely well-cared-for original car that has been driven regularly since new...never neglected, never found in a barn full of mice, never pieced together from a wreck or rusty shell.  It's not a trailer queen by today's standards, but if you're interested in a car you can drive you'll be hard pressed to find a better running and driving KR at any price.

With the caveat that I am not the original owner and can't be certain, to the best of my knowledge all the metal, the glass, the fiberglass, and the engine/transmission/rear end are all factory original.  All the KR-unique original parts are there.  The interior is factory original except for the door panels (the originals will be included)...the upholstery, dash pad, carpet, trunk mat, boot cover and boot bag, all very nice and original to this car.  All the ID tags are the originals.  Car currently has a low-mile 3.89 traction-lok center section, but the restored original 3.00 open center section is included (with its original tag).  I have quite a lot of spare parts, some rare and valuable, that I'll be selling separately.  I won't sell any parts before the car is sold, so the new owner can have first choice.

A Google album of the car is here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3AhDZbF6Y6aqzrHF8 The photos don't really do the car justice, as I'm afraid I'm not much of a photographer.  The car is exactly as I have described it though, and if it sounds like what you're looking for I doubt you'll be disappointed if you see it in person.  It's a beautiful car.

My intention is to put the KR on Bring-a-Trailer later this summer and have them do their professional photography.  I decided to offer it here beforehand just in case a forum visitor or someone they know has been looking and would prefer to avoid the uncertainty, urgency, and fees of a BaT auction.  Before it goes to auction I'll let it go for $225K cash (by bank-to-bank wire transfer, or by using the "Caramel" on-line escrow service), otherwise I'm going to take my chances with BaT.  Sorry, no trades.

For those who are familiar with the area around Sonoma Raceway (Infineon, Sears Point), I live about 30 minutes from the track, off highway 12 between Sonoma and Santa Rosa.  Because I have some health issues I would respectfully ask that only someone who is seriously interested in buying the car  make an appointment to come look at it or have someone look at it.  After you review the pictures I'm happy to answer any questions.  It's best to send your questions directly to me at jerrydotcom@hotmail.com. 

I have a May 68 build 427 GTE (H servo C6) and I have been in a number of R servo C6 428/429's back in the day. I have a number of anomalies in my car. My GTE hits gears just like an R clicks off the shifts. I think I need to pull that cover off and see what I got.

It'd be interesting to know what you have, but if your 427 GT-E has an aluminum tailshaft housing I think it will probably turn out to be the normal H servo.  All the cars that we found with the unexpected H had cast iron tail shaft housings.  Also, all of them were Mustangs, either KR or 68-1/2 GTs, but that doesn't mean there aren't any Cougars, Torinos, or Cyclones out there. We found no 69-70 C6s with H servos.

I've had 3 CJ C6s over the years, and a GT500 C6.  The GT500 wasn't anywhere even close to a match for the CJs, but if the transmission shifted any softer/slower it sure wasn't noticeable.   

We had a discussion about this many years ago on the 428CJ site.  We found a number of CJ C6s which "appeared" to be H servos all of which had cast iron tail shaft housings...including my KR vert that I've owned since '72, an original owner California Special 428 CJ, and a very low mileage original KR vert owned by Scott Fuller.  It wasn't an early/late thing, because my KR is very early, and Scott Fuller's was very late.  We found no explanation at the time, but based on the video it would seem likely that these are really R servos made with an H casting.

There was an old mechanic at the Ford dealer I worked for back in the day who used to say if you're working on a Chevy you just need to know what decade it was built in...if your're working on a Ford you need to know what year, what month, what day, what time, what plant, and what supplier, if you want to get the right part.  I've come to know he was more right than I ever imagined at the time... 

Are the ball joints and shafts NOS Ford, or repro/aftermarket pieces?

Start the car and let it run for a bit without driving.  The brakes gradually lock up without driving nor activating the brake pedal

That is an odd but not super uncommon failure mode of a power booster.  More common is a hissing sound when the brakes are applied along with increased pedal pressure.  I had one once that as soon as the engine was started the brakes would apply themselves, and the car couldn't be moved...turn it off, and they'd release.  It's wierd when it happens, but I'd bet a lot that you need a new booster.  You're lucky it's a small block car...

So if the master was assembled to the booster when painted, then I assume it follows that the studs and nuts that mount the master would also be sprayed black...at least partially?

I thought that was probably the case, but as I was replacing the master cylinder it would be as easy to do it correctly as to guess.  Thanks for the detailed info...

Should the cast iron body of the master cylinder be painted black, and if so, flat, satin, or gloss?  Should the cap be painted the same color/sheen...and the "bail" as well?  I assume painted off the car so no overspray onto the brake lines?

Thanks in advance for any help.

[recently]

Has anyone recently had a midland power brake booster (with the band) rebuilt...and, if so, by whom and what was the approximate price and how satisfied were you?  It seems the parts to rebuild one have become scarce and the prices to have one rebuilt has increased drammatically.

Alternatively, anyone have any experience with these: https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1968/ford/mustang/parts/pb1114b.html

The price sure is right, and it looks quite accurate excepting the white plastic spacer and the check valve.

Thanks, guys.  I like the idea, but it sounds like there are still some bugs.  Maybe eBay will straighen it out...they've only owned it a few months.

Anybody have any first or second hand experience, good or bad, with Caramel, the escrow service that's being used on BaT, and now on eBay, to facilitate private party auto sales?

I removed my clock, cleaned it out with isopropyl alcohol, lubricant it with clock oil and filed the contacts a little and it worked like a charm. Still working after several years now. Just a thought.

Corey

I've actually done that a couple of times over the years as well.  I decided to try it again this time and it ran for about 22 hours, stopped, and won't restart.  I think the little solenoid that powers the winding mechanism is probably burned out...and so am I at this point!

Honestly, I think I'm really burned out on the original clocks.  I've never had one that kept time worth a crap even when they did run, they don't run that long, and r&r'ing them in an a/c car is no picnic.  I'm seriously considering the Scott Drake repro and am wondering if someone can offer their experience with them, as feedback on the internet is pretty limited. I know they are quartz, which is OK, but do they have some sort of internal battery (that would eventually have to be replaced?) or do they get 12V power from the instrument cluster harness.

If people are happy with the Scott Drake quartz I think I'll go that direction, save my original in need of "service", and pass it on to some new owner some day who maybe cares a lot more about the clock than I do.

Any feedback greatly appreciated...

Thanks guys.  I haven't contacted Phildon yet for a lead-time estimate, but I really can't be waiting a year.  Anyone have a second choice vendor?

Can anyone recommend someone to repair the in-dash clock in a '68?