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I have a May 68 build 427 GTE (H servo C6) and I have been in a number of R servo C6 428/429's back in the day. I have a number of anomalies in my car. My GTE hits gears just like an R clicks off the shifts. I think I need to pull that cover off and see what I got.

It'd be interesting to know what you have, but if your 427 GT-E has an aluminum tailshaft housing I think it will probably turn out to be the normal H servo.  All the cars that we found with the unexpected H had cast iron tail shaft housings.  Also, all of them were Mustangs, either KR or 68-1/2 GTs, but that doesn't mean there aren't any Cougars, Torinos, or Cyclones out there. We found no 69-70 C6s with H servos.

I've had 3 CJ C6s over the years, and a GT500 C6.  The GT500 wasn't anywhere even close to a match for the CJs, but if the transmission shifted any softer/slower it sure wasn't noticeable.   

We had a discussion about this many years ago on the 428CJ site.  We found a number of CJ C6s which "appeared" to be H servos all of which had cast iron tail shaft housings...including my KR vert that I've owned since '72, an original owner California Special 428 CJ, and a very low mileage original KR vert owned by Scott Fuller.  It wasn't an early/late thing, because my KR is very early, and Scott Fuller's was very late.  We found no explanation at the time, but based on the video it would seem likely that these are really R servos made with an H casting.

There was an old mechanic at the Ford dealer I worked for back in the day who used to say if you're working on a Chevy you just need to know what decade it was built in...if your're working on a Ford you need to know what year, what month, what day, what time, what plant, and what supplier, if you want to get the right part.  I've come to know he was more right than I ever imagined at the time... 

Are the ball joints and shafts NOS Ford, or repro/aftermarket pieces?

Start the car and let it run for a bit without driving.  The brakes gradually lock up without driving nor activating the brake pedal

That is an odd but not super uncommon failure mode of a power booster.  More common is a hissing sound when the brakes are applied along with increased pedal pressure.  I had one once that as soon as the engine was started the brakes would apply themselves, and the car couldn't be moved...turn it off, and they'd release.  It's wierd when it happens, but I'd bet a lot that you need a new booster.  You're lucky it's a small block car...

So if the master was assembled to the booster when painted, then I assume it follows that the studs and nuts that mount the master would also be sprayed black...at least partially?

I thought that was probably the case, but as I was replacing the master cylinder it would be as easy to do it correctly as to guess.  Thanks for the detailed info...

Should the cast iron body of the master cylinder be painted black, and if so, flat, satin, or gloss?  Should the cap be painted the same color/sheen...and the "bail" as well?  I assume painted off the car so no overspray onto the brake lines?

Thanks in advance for any help.

[recently]

Has anyone recently had a midland power brake booster (with the band) rebuilt...and, if so, by whom and what was the approximate price and how satisfied were you?  It seems the parts to rebuild one have become scarce and the prices to have one rebuilt has increased drammatically.

Alternatively, anyone have any experience with these: https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1968/ford/mustang/parts/pb1114b.html

The price sure is right, and it looks quite accurate excepting the white plastic spacer and the check valve.

Thanks, guys.  I like the idea, but it sounds like there are still some bugs.  Maybe eBay will straighen it out...they've only owned it a few months.

Anybody have any first or second hand experience, good or bad, with Caramel, the escrow service that's being used on BaT, and now on eBay, to facilitate private party auto sales?

I removed my clock, cleaned it out with isopropyl alcohol, lubricant it with clock oil and filed the contacts a little and it worked like a charm. Still working after several years now. Just a thought.

Corey

I've actually done that a couple of times over the years as well.  I decided to try it again this time and it ran for about 22 hours, stopped, and won't restart.  I think the little solenoid that powers the winding mechanism is probably burned out...and so am I at this point!

Honestly, I think I'm really burned out on the original clocks.  I've never had one that kept time worth a crap even when they did run, they don't run that long, and r&r'ing them in an a/c car is no picnic.  I'm seriously considering the Scott Drake repro and am wondering if someone can offer their experience with them, as feedback on the internet is pretty limited. I know they are quartz, which is OK, but do they have some sort of internal battery (that would eventually have to be replaced?) or do they get 12V power from the instrument cluster harness.

If people are happy with the Scott Drake quartz I think I'll go that direction, save my original in need of "service", and pass it on to some new owner some day who maybe cares a lot more about the clock than I do.

Any feedback greatly appreciated...

Thanks guys.  I haven't contacted Phildon yet for a lead-time estimate, but I really can't be waiting a year.  Anyone have a second choice vendor?

Can anyone recommend someone to repair the in-dash clock in a '68?

Those wheels on eBay seem like crazy money.  Is that what they typically sell for?