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Arrived at the Tail of the Dragon late night for an eerie drive in the Boss 302. No one up front, no one behind, no street lights, no cross roads or driveways, no traffic lights. Just pure winding mountain road in the best car I have ever driven.

[hot, cramped with no amenities like A/C or radio.]

I do not recommend this car. I have personally driven this car. I found it to be hot, cramped with no amenities like A/C or radio. Albet I drove it for only 1/2 lap at Willow Springs at about 30 mph from turn 6 where it was being photographed for a Sports Car Graphic article back to the pits. It was a fresh McClusky restoration at that time. Later CS used it as collateral to buy the building at Las Vegas Speedway. He was behind on the payments and forced to sell it to pay off the building. When we took it to Willow Petersen had to put a million dollars of insurance on the car. I think CS got 4 million when it was sold.

LoL!

A cool clip I ran across sharpening some images of the legend and his Cobra.

Amazing that they all survived intact. Thanks for posting!

The 3rd place car seems to be the only one to survive unscathed over the years.

1015 raced only 4 times and wore 5 different liveries. Completed in January 1966 (with a white livery with a black hood) right in time for its first race at Daytona. Starting from the pole it won the first 24 hours race for Ford. Next was Le Mans. 1015 almost won its 2nd race and should have won it if Ford didn't try to stage a 1-2-3 arrival. It was painted light blue with white stripes and orange flames on the front fenders.
Resprayed red with silver stripes it was sent to Daytona for some intense testing. For the 24 hours of Daytona in 1967 1015 was repainted to the Shelby colors ( dark blue with white stripes) but retired with transmission problems. In preparation for Le mans in 1967 1015 was modified to Mk2B specification by Holman & Moody and entered by Ford France with a white livery with blue stripes.
It crashed during the race and was sent back to the States for repair by SAI (Shelby) then was stored for a few years at H & M. It was later sold to a private collector, changed hand several times and it's now restored and wears its 1966 Le Mans livery.

Finished in white with a black hood, 1016 went to Daytona for its first race in January 1966. It retired experimenting a new automatic transmission. It was sent to Sebring, with a new gold livery, where it finished only 12th, this time with brakes problems. Still in gold but with a pink "moustache" it raced at Le Mans in June 1966. It came 3rd completing the success for Ford.
In 1967 in a gold livery with no trims it was sent to Daytona for some testing to finalize the Mk2B configuration along with 2 other Mk2. After this test it stayed at H & M for a while and was donated in 1970 to the Harrah's museum in Reno. Sold to a collector in 1983 it is now restored to its 1966 Le Mans livery.

1025 along with 1030 1035 and 1036 was used by Shell Oil for its advertising campaign in 1967. It was sold soon after to a private collector and changed hands a few times. The car has been seen in different magazines over the years (Motor in 1968, Hot Car in 1974). Crashed in 1976, it has been rebuilt after a long restoration.

My dad and I had a ride in 1015 at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway in 1994. I recall the owner was Brian Mimaki who owned some floral business in California. Great guy and he was there with his dad I think.

Amazing that they all survived intact. Thanks for posting!

He said the garage door was opened when it was running.  But in the clip where the car was running the door looked pretty down to me.

I noticed that too.
Since we're on air quality and garage safety I wonder if Richard will recognize the overspray in my unventilated spray booth - er garage....

The color looks somewhat familiar!

I bought my BOSS 9 from a woman whose husband died in the car when he was breaking in the engine after a rebuild. It sat for many years until she finally decided to part ways with it. She said she heard it running about a 1/2 hour and it stopped. He didn't shut it down, seized from a spun bearing.  But yet we all do it at times.

Your story is wild!  Do you ever on occasion catch any strange vibes from the car?

Be safe.

More from Bob Gaines:

It is pretty simple to figure what wire to use at the ignition switch for full 12 volt power. There is a short wire with a bullet connector that comes off the ignition switch that your tach wire plugs into . You tap into the wire someplace between the ignition switch and the bullet connector and run that wire out to the pertronix. You are all about day 2 modifications so the extra wire should not offend your sensibilities. I would run a black wire so that it blends in more with the existing harness but that is just me. If you want to get creative you can tape wrap the extra wire into the harness at the firewall and let it exit out closer to the coil so that it is harder to distinguish as extra. Best of luck on how ever you decide to solve your problem.

Yes the coil was factory installed on the passenger side. Yes I can see that you are getting power from the coil terminal. I am familiar with your style coil and it has a internal resister so it can be used with the stock resistor wire that steps down the voltage to the coil or with a modified wiring with full 12 volts from the ignition switch bypassing the resister wire wrapped inside the stock wiring harness. The resister inside the aftermarket coil steps down the voltage inside before it gets to the windings. The problem is that if you have a stock wiring harness with the stock resistor wire wrapped inside then your aftermarket coil terminal is getting less then the full 12 volts and consequently since that is where you are getting power for the module is suppling less voltage then what the module needs to work properly. As has been said before sometimes the module will work properly at least for a while with the lower voltage and sometimes it will act up and stop running similar to the symptoms you describe.

By not doing what Pertronix explains in the instruction to do (full 12 volts to the module) it is a roulette wheel of chance of how long it will work without problems. It may work for a good long time or it may fail in a month. The possible failure is because you have it connected to the coil power which is not a full 12 volts. Murphy's law dictates that it will fail at a inopportune moment. I would run the dedicated 12 volt wire to the module as the instructions say is required for problem free operation.That way you take the roulette wheel out of the equation.

I did not want to become the Pertronix answer guy but when I see suspect incorrect information it tends to bother me. I went to the Pertronix website to check about the coil. The ignitor 1  requires a 1.5 ohm or more coil. The ignitor 2 requires a 0.45 ohm coil or more. I must have missed it but I did not find any information on the ignitor 3 . The Ford yellow top coil falls within the Pertronix parameters. That is if it is working properly. Most aftermarket coils fall into compatible category too. I think there is a Pertronix flamethrower coil that will match up with their ignitor modules. Something that has not been mentioned but I was reminded of when going over the installation info is that the spark plug wires must be resistance type wire . Interference from the solid core wire will damage the module. That reminded me also of the urban legend that 289 hipo in a GT350 was supposed to have solid core SX wire. That is false . The regular production GT350 used spark plug resistance wire that was marked "resistance wire" form the factory. This has been documented by vintage factory pictures.

I have a similar problem with my tach and I have a Pertronix setup currently that I have not yet replaced for points.  However, Bob Gaines provided a very elaborate explanation on how to fix the Pertronix problem.  My tach probelm began when I took my car in to fix the 12 volt connection issue and the place hooked up a third wire from the coil to the parking light switch I believe it was.  That is when my tach seemed to hover at 1500 to 2000 rpm and has not gone away.  Here is Bob Gaines explanation on how to get the Pertronix right.  See below.

If you are getting power from the coil then your problem may be because the Pertronix is not getting a full 12 volts like the instructions says that is necessary for the module to work properly. The coil source is a cheater way of getting power for the module . It will work but since it is not a full 12 volts (9 1/2 volts I think when key is in on position through the resistor wire) can sometimes cause problems. To get a full 12 volts typically a wire is connected in the harness at the ignition switch shortly BEFORE it turns into resistor wire for the coil and run this extra wire out to the module for power. The problem you describe is a common problem with Pertronix and the change to full 12 volts like the the factory says the module requires is the common way to typically solve it. Another way to get 12 volts out to the module without running a extra wire is to eliminate or bypass the resistor wire in the harness to the coil but then you MUST run a after market coil that has a built in resistor . Most if not all aftermarket coils are made to run on a full 12 volts or the lower voltage of the resistor wire because they have a INTERNAL resistor so only the lower voltage amount gets to the coil windings. If you run a full 12 Volts to a Ford yellow top coil it will heat up to a point that you can't even touch it before failing or exploding!   I don't know how many times I have heard the Pertronix problem stories and getting power at the coil is a root cause on the vast majority.

Rust

Early car. Peter Klutt talked it up in a video before the auction. Record price. More than an R model

Which makes me wonder what that Dick Jordan R model will sell for today, May 16, 2026. That should be a $2 million dollar car all day long if one uses this street car as a bench mark. I remember the Chicago Milo Brooks car R model was for sale back in 1998 in Rapid City, South Dakota for $150,000. I suffered greatly seeing that ad in Hemmings Motor News month after month, having been divorced and did not have the money to buy it. I should have taken out a loan.

I'm not sure it would be illegal to stamp a vin on a block. Shelbys were never titled by a vin on the block. Also say someone found a correct block and stamped it and now called the car numbers matching and not say " guarantied original engine "  is that illegal? I'd say not. Unethical? Yes. Now Chevies prior to 1972 if someone built a very rare car where you cannot tell what it is because of the lack of engine vin and sold it as said rare car to me that would be fraud but it might be hard to prove? 

You opened up an interesting question. Here is a quick overview that I am just learning. I only handle state cases but this Federal statute interests me to dive further. As you see, there are exceptions which would exculpate a restorer.

18 U.S.C. § 511 is the federal law that makes it a felony to knowingly remove, obliterate, tamper with, or alter a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on a road motor vehicle or motor vehicle part.The OffenseUnder this statute, it is a crime to knowingly:Remove, alter, or tamper with an identification number.Alter or remove a theft-prevention decal (affixed under the Motor Vehicle Theft Prevention Act) with the intent to further the theft of a vehicle.PenaltiesViolations of this statute are considered felonies. Offenders face fines, up to 5 years in federal prison, or both.Lawful ExceptionsThe law recognizes that legitimate repairs or recycling operations may require interacting with identification numbers. The statute explicitly exempts the following individuals from prosecution, unless they know the vehicle or part is stolen:Scrap processors and demolishers who are in compliance with applicable state laws.Repair professionals where the alteration or removal is reasonably necessary for lawful repairs.Persons replacing/restoring numbers in accordance with state laws (e.g., restoring a classic car).

Hour 4:55:23

https://www.mecum.com/lots/1172602/1965-shelby-gt350-fastback/