Messages

If you want to relieve your fitment problems, I have an original '68 convertible deck lid and matching end caps. $1500 for everything.

Bill Collins
Harrisburg, PA
bill@bcfords.com
717648-6600

Thanks for the offer Bill but I'll have to pass. I did notice thanks to your trunk lid there that mine is way to thick on the spoiler/letter panel and that may be effecting the fitment as well

Fiberglass parts often need a lot of hand fitting.  Have you tried slotting the hinge slots so the hinges sit lower?

we have but may need to go lower

Hi all after making significant progress on my clone over the last year we've reached the fiberglass portion of the build. The nose took a few weeks to get fitting right but we can not get the trunk lid to fit nicely at all. (I will note that my father bought the trunk lid and end caps for me as a gift from Fiberglass SpecialtiesNV and I would've preferred branda).

The end caps didn't fit very nicely and we had to build them up nearly a full 1/2-5/8 to make the three pieces even, now its good enough but I believe the deck lid is warped and won't sit down evenly with the quarters, currently sitting about a quarter inch higher than it should be on each side even after sanding, adjusting the trunk hinges all the way down, and lowering the trunk striker.

Was wondering if anyone has any advice on how to fix this because buying another deck lid was not in the plan.

Hi all, may have a dumb question but I'm running my ammeter harness to the solenoid. I was wondering do 350's have the ammeter junction block like 500/kr's have.

My dad who restored car 00333 said he had done research when he restored it back in the 2000's and found the junction block was for 500/kr's but not 350's so he didn't install one but now doesn't remember how he did it. From my own research and images of restored 350's all I see is junction boxes.

 I want to make my clone as accurate as possible and was wondering how to wire the ammeter the factory way if possible

My dad's car which we unfortunately had to part ways with. Car number 00333 back in 2012/13, sold in 2016. Bought in 2004 as a partially painted shell.

00333 was built dec of 67, 302 J-code, 69 302 heads, hipo manifolds, 4 spd, original a/c, original Marshal fog lights that never were replaced. Original paint was Wimbledon white with candy apple red stripes but colors were inverted. Signed by Carroll Shelby himself at Tasca Ford in 2010

Would the version of lug for 66 ten spokes be a good alternative? Branda's number is SNUT2

This is the type of lug and washer typically used with that later version of Shelby 10-Spoke, hope this helps some...

do you think this cj pony lug set would be a good alternative? they're 3/4 head but still have 1/2 thread

 CJ Pony

Hello friends I currently have a set of 10 spokes for my 68 clone that my father bought about 15 years ago from an old fellow. Right now I'm trying to figure out washers and lug set I need for these rims. I need to know what size the washers are inner/outer diameter and thickness

I can confirm that it is the type of wheel that needs a washer under the lugnut.

Thanks Bob, you're a true savior. Would you know what size the washers are inner/outer diameter and thickness by any chance?

Hello friends I currently have a set of 10 spokes for my 68 clone that my father bought about 15 years ago from an old fellow. Right now I'm trying to figure out which lug nut I need for this rim. I believe this rim is one of the versions that requires a washer along with the lug nut and would appreciate if anyone could confirm or dispute this. I have no idea when the rims were produced.

Posted picture shows what it should look like from the factory

Thanks Bob really appreciate the pics and advice

Hi all, I'm currently getting the carb set up for my 68 GT350 clone and I'm wondering if anyone could show some pictures of the fuel line going from the fuel pump up to the carb (note my car has A/C and power steering brackets). All pictures I find the fuel line is blocked by the air cleaner. I've also seen people having the fuel line run on either driver or passengers side and my carb has a hard line from each bowl connecting to a single on the passenger side. I believe my carb is a 4118 Holley but I will confirm when I get back to my shop. Any help is appreciated.

The fuel line is the same as any 4 barrel equipped 68 302 regardless of if Holley or Ford. Both carbs fuel inlet enter the carb in the same location. FYI the front bowl Ford Holley has two inlets one on each side whereas the after market Holley has only one on the passenger side . 

Hi bob I've attached 2 pics of my carb in my original post above

Confirmed it's a 4118-S073

Hi all, I'm currently getting the carb set up for my 68 GT350 clone and I'm wondering if anyone could show some pictures of the fuel line going from the fuel pump up to the carb (note my car has A/C and power steering brackets). All pictures I find the fuel line is blocked by the air cleaner. I've also seen people having the fuel line run on either driver or passengers side and my carb has a hard line from each bowl connecting to a single on the passenger side. I believe my carb is a 4118 Holley but I will confirm when I get back to my shop. Any help is appreciated.

thank you!