Messages

Greetings- Can someone recommend the preferred rebuilder of choice for original KH front disc calipers? Thanks as always ...

When disconnecting the brake lines from the Master Cylinder, use a Flare Wrench. Especially if those brake lines have not been removed in some time. The flare wrench will reduce the likelihood of rounding the fittings on the brake lines.
    While you have access to get the MC and booster out, it's a good time to replace the rear spark plug too.

Great tip thanks ....

Thanks for all the tips everyone ......

Thanks that helps. So leave the M/C in place and remove that and the booster in one-piece?

Hey folks ..... looks like I'm up against the chore of removing the master cylinder and brake booster on my 67 Gt-500. Holy smokes there is like zero room in there to work at first glance. Any tips anyone can share that can help as my sanity gets tested? I'm assuming the valve cover needs to be removed at the very least. Thanks !!

Great stuff Doug ...... thanks much for sharing your wealth of info.

Consider that if you are going to lower your a-arms and it was not original to the car, 1" drop is not optimum. 1-1/2" is.

1" was used since it was the most they could go without binding up the ball joint which was a Ford warranty issue.

If you go 1-1/2", you need to space the ball joints with wedge shaped spacers and also consider that ANY lowering of the front a-arms makes the car bump steer radically.

Isn't it fun asking questions here?

I've seen a few 1" drop kits and a 1.75" kit but no 1.5" . Aside from the guy in Utah which I think you mentioned doesn't do that anymore ... do you know any suppliers for 1.5" drop kits? Thanks ....

I just bought a 67 GT500 and that's the first thing I'm going to address. My understanding however was that Shelby already dropped the A-arms one inch. Not true ?

Does anyone know what the coil spring ratings are with these cars? We used to drop in shortened 620 lb springs in stock 66/67 mustangs along with dropping the A-arms one inch plus Koni shocks and that would result in an almost perfect lowered stance.

Finally saw the car yesterday. Gorgeous paint and bodywork. The owner spent a ton of money on paint and body 15 years ago. Never seen a Mustang with such straight lines. The fit and finish was damn near perfect. Car has been in the family since the father bought the car from the original owner in 1968. Odometer reads 2,300 so it's got 102,300 miles on it.

It's for certain a real Shelby but aside from the color change and A/C added it's also had a motor change to a single carb, aluminum block 428. CJ is my guess. Owner kept all the receipts over the years which was great but alas no extra original parts.

Would be a great driver but as far as appealing to a collector ..... don't think so.

Thanks guys .... PM sent !

I'm a Boss 302 owner for the past 35 years and I have an opportunity to purchase a 67 GT500 locally.

The vehicle in question was originally Lime Gold but since changed to Black. The issue is it appears the owner added A/C at some point and I'm wondering how those two non-original issues will impact the value. It's otherwise in excellent condition and would be considered an excellent driver's car IMO.

The owner passed during Covid so there probably isn't alot of history to be had on the vehicle aside from the usual Marti reports and Shelby invoicing which clearly state it was equipped with Thermactor only.

Asking price is $160K

Thanks !!