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Those look great!

Not sure the history and your confidence level in the coil, but I've found that's a weak spot, especially with repro coils. They used to be so rock solid no one ever considered them going bad, not any more. If you have a spare, swap it in and give that a try.

You're probably thinking of this thread, last date was one year ago...

https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=5431.105

That's the one.

A MOOG 498 fit the rear in my Hertz.

My originals were in terrible shape, warped, cracked, many of the rivet holes mostly broken out. So I picked up a set of Branda's fiberglass ones, and they were pretty... ok. Did take some trimming here and there, a little heat and bending, and they're not perfect. But as good as I've been able to find for the job. There was someone (not sure if it was here?) who was attempting to recreate the originals in the original type plastic - were predicted to be very pricey, but would have been the only game in town, so... Seemed that effort kinda vanished at some point, maybe someone has a link to that?

I purchased a Fastrax alignment tool, there are many similar ones. Setting the caster and camber are really not that difficult. There's lots of info on the web, and I think the Ford service manual also tells you how much change each thickness will change the setting(s). Determining the set of shims is easy for camber - do that first. Then determining the caster is done by swapping front and rear shims to keep the camber the same, but move the pivot point of the upper control arm forward or backwards. Changing the shims is pretty easy - the cleaner your suspension is the better. I loosen the upper control arm bolts, jack the car up so the wheels are hanging, that pulls the control arms out and loosens the shims, and then just reach in and remove/install shims. Set the toe last. I didn't get too crazy about this, it was easy enough that I made adjustments, drove the car a bit, remeasured and tweaked it again, until it was right on. Not a big job. My plan was to take the car to a shop and have a machine measurements done, but so far that's still a plan, lol.

Following. I replaced he dash pad in my '66 H, but haven't located an appropriate tach yet, so I hadn't considered that there would be any difficulty in mounting it. I still have the original dash pad for location info.

From my notes:

These are Centric numbers, so can be crossed to another brand.

Shoes: 111.05810
Drums:123.65007
Wheel cylinders: 135.64001, 135.64002

Hardware is a Raybestos number H7143

I agree. There are more then a few problems with info in his script for this video. The problem is the general public can't tell which info is right and which is wrong.

Hi Bob can you be more specific? I am trying to educate myself after a near miss purchase of 6S1289. Thanks in advance.

One example - he mistakes the standard disk brake proportioning valve for a Hertz specific "brake boosting valve", i.e. any Mustang with disc brakes will have a proportioning valve, not just a 350H.

The tale I heard (take this with a grain of salt) is SA wanted to go with fiberglass hoods, but they has a lot of fitment issues. As they tried to sort that fitment issues out they used steel hoods as needed, so there was no real pattern in production numbers as to which cars got steel and which get fiberglass. FWIW 687 (a GT350H) came with a steel hood.