Messages

Just to set the record straight #0176 was only changed in outside appearance to look like a G.T.500
No proof of an engine swap and it would be very doubtful that swap would include a thermactor type 428. It also had a unique grille and inboard headlamps. This car appears to be very late in production and we see more cars built with a thermactor which is Jeff's focus. Most likely this is an example of FORD installing what they had available to them at time of assembly. Really think this  is one of the most challenging details to get 100% on a 67 that is thermactor equipped. Hope this helps.
R.R.

Might help if we could date this issue. When were the valve covers pictured available?
R.R.

Just to add to Bob's factoid....The car has the hole punched in the apron/fender edge for a zee
Bracket and it is missing. Other stuff on the list should be the e brake cables with a Black casing
Which is visible from many angles. And a Florida car with a Texas title??
Appears well documented.
R.R.

Hi Pete,
This is Michigan Casting Company. From what I understand they started when Dearborn Iron Foundry
Finished. They were not casting in the 1960's and most plants that worked with cast iron have closed or changed to aluminium. Hope this helps.
R.R.

Hi to all,
To answer Bigfoot in the very first post it states the number as 1071. For whatever reason Brittany Blue was the most popular color for Paxton equipped cars, with almost 50% of the total.
To add to the gauge comment by J.D. Craig once told me this is one of the most difficult parts to find. They must not have made or sold many and the Studebaker symbol fools many people.
R.R.

The owner of the car that should have this transmission might not realize why the contact is asking about his car. Also no one mentions what kind of condition it is in.....if it was/has had any work or repairs...ever been rebuilt. A small block toploader is fairly common within the hobby so if the owner is happy with the car he may not understand why this part is valuable. Think of all the 289 Cobras without the original T-10 that now have toploaders in place. Nice upgrade is how most view this, I would think the best advice is have it inspected and use it if it is good.
R.R.

Hi Again,
Many parts have a name on them. Cal Automotive was a long time supplier of parts for Shelby,and often laminated a business card to the part. Borg Warner also often did this. Plaza used a foil label that was glued in place. O B A rear panel has S7MS 6340325 A on the left lower flange and
O B A 11369 4 on the lower right flange.It is also a stud mount type. Would like to compare to the Cal Automotive type. So far it appears only O B A used a number as mentioned above, and it reminds me of the DYMO label maker type machine that was very popular in that time...seems everybody had one and used them for everything.
R.R.

Just to add to J.D.'s excellent example, it was only OBA that put part numbers on things they made.
Side scoops and taillamp panels seem most prevalent. Several different suppliers used in 67 for all
Fiberglass parts. Running changes during production were constant. Makes the "Art" of restoration a real education.
R.R.

Hey to Brian and all,
The guy that drives a BOSS 429 on the street should get an award.....we gave long distance awards and they were well deserved. A nice looking survivor car from the small picture. Enjoy every mile!!
R.R.
P.S. Any idea what the feature is for this years MCACN?

Heart felt condolences to Mr. Cantwell and family. May she R.I.P.

Anthony

Very sad news and shocking as well. This is a huge loss and all thoughts and prayers should be with Nancy and the family. Deepest condolences to all.
A friend of many,a gift to all, he will be forever missed by Nancy and the group that has joined us all. R.I.P. Dave
Anthony

Hi,
Sometimes an easy way to remove these is use a cutoff wheel (Dremel will get in tight places) and grind a slot in the bolt head.
Use a screwdriver that fits tight in the slot and hold while you spin off the attaching nut.
This has been successful many times for me and will not risk more damage to paint or fiberglass.Another way is to try to spin the nut off with a high speed impact.This is best on clean
Threads and might work for you. Last method, last resort is tighten and break them-not my way of operating, yet works for some folks/some risk of damage and I would never do this with fiberglass parts involved-they can crack very easily, and then you have more to repair. Also soaking with a good penetrant and cleaning the threads can help. Be patient and best of luck!
R.R.

Rod,
Get the specs for the cam you are currently using and call a cam company directly and get advice from them. Summit Racing actually helped with a great tech line and answered all questions I had.
Comp Cams should also offer help. Hope it will be a simple solution.
R.R.

Hi again,
Looks like there is a difference Left to Right. Must be in the arch, and without seeing some off the car, who knows what else we would discover. As they are thick and cast raw metal, they must get pitted, and rough looking with age. Why else would you need to replace them?? Can't help wondering who made them for Shelby as most parts were from around the L.A. area.
R.R.

So these are the same for right or left sides, and used only for 1967 cars?
If so that narrows the market quite a bit. Looks like Daniel Carpenter has the correct type of snubber,and AMK the hardware, the bracket Is the missing link. Are you thinking a simple sand cast
Would produce a good duplicate?? How many sets would you need to make it worthwhile?
R.R.