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Messages - Road Reptile

#1
Hi,
I see an advertiser on the concoursmustang site as midlife harness.com and it appears he is repairing harnesses....might be worth contacting about a connector.
R.R.
#2
Hi all,
Just to verify things a bit more. The picture shown with a cap without a hose is known as "open"
And was not intended for use on California cars after the beginning of 1967. We see this on many
Invoices so I would suggest getting documents from Dave Matthews to show where it was sold new,and if there is any doubt as to cost,get a Deluxe Marti report. They were under $7.00 I think.
Greeks car was part of the train derailment and was intended to be sold originally East of California, which would explain why it is an "open" type.
R.R.
#3
Hi SCJSTU,
The picture you posted is a typical closed crankcase type. If your car is a 200 series and sold new outside of California (thermactors were suggested to be sold within that state) Very few HIPO 289 engines were equipped with them. And they are difficult to find correct parts for.
They (thermactor equipped) also used a closed crankcase type as pictured.
R.R.
#4
Hi again,
Yes that is what I think is proper-and have a pair that match, just want to verify so no threads are damaged. Thanks for the tip.
R.R.
#5
Hi 68 fans,
Need to know what the roof bolts are for the  rollbar. They are 13/16 and much like seatbelt bolts
But have 3/8" coarse threads and a small shoulder...if memory serves correct...also have some fine thread Type that fit in the floor for seatbelts.At least they were saved, Looks like some advertised have Torx head which can't be correct. Thanks for the help.
R.R.
#6
Hi,
Best people to work with-Power Brake Booster Exchange in Washington state....Just has "Mark" do
Several and am very pleased. Dewey has retired.Company has great reputation still. If I am reading
Correctly they are also doing hydraulics. Be sure to keep the original master as they are rare.
R.R.
#7
Incredible!!!
Best news ever.
Will forever be #1 all time favorite for me,and now all together. 8)
R.R.
#8
Hi Texas Swede,
Sent you a private message.
R.R.
#9
Hi Cory,
Should be easy to find-try the nearest Ford dealership.Just bought some for a rear axle and it was in stock.Hope this helps.
R.R.
#10
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Rear Universal Joint
June 27, 2026, 07:34:34 AM
Roy,
Try Dead Nuts On. Don't think there is any better.
R.R.
#11
Hi all,
Just inspected and measured as .258" o.d. and 3/16" long- silver aluminium. Appears to be a common style
rivet...hope this helps. The important thing is it stays with the car,REGARDLESS of the type of rivet.
R.R.
#12
Kent,
The insert type of repair may be another choice. Take a look at a Time-sert part # 05625
See what you think.
R.R.
#13
Kent,
Simple to rethread from 5/16 24 to 5/16 18 if it is necessary. At the current price of genuine parts  this is an easy choice. Really the incorrect bolt in fine thread is stronger and when installed would be difficult to see, yet original type and size are the best way to assemble.Would also suggest an application of Blue loctite on the bolts.
R.R.
#14
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: GT500 Brake issues
June 09, 2026, 08:35:40 AM
Would be nice to see a list of parts replaced, and that may help determine what is going on.
You mention lock up, yet do not say front or rear. Going back to base or verifying part numbers should point you in the proper direction. Roadster has mentioned a very commonly overlooked part.
R.R.
#15
Up For Auction / Re: 1968 GT500 on Ebay
May 29, 2026, 11:52:00 PM
After looking over all the pictures, makes me wonder about 4 clamps (2 per side) on the "H" pipe to
Muffler inlet connection??? And real leather interior
Another car for display only....
R.R.