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Reproduction 7AC pulley available here:

https://semomustang.com/shop/ols/products/7ac-power-steering-pump-pulley-1967-shelby-gt350-289-hipo

6M22 with thermactor ports
No 4V.
These may be service heads.
Is there a way to tell if they are?

Hi S412Gofast,  because the heads have a December 1966 casting date code, they could be either - Production for a 1967 GT350 or a service part.  Because it has the 65 cast into as well, I'd guess more likely a production head for 1967.  The service heads with C8ZE are definitely service parts.

Cory

Cory

Cory
thanks for this info!

Carl

6M22 with thermactor ports
No 4V.
These may be service heads.
Is there a way to tell if they are?

Need to research before you jump in on a Saleen. There is almost as much on these foxbody mustangs to learn about what makes one a real Saleen as there is a 1960s Shelby. A Saleens ford vin and the saleen vin can be provided to Saleen to verify authenticity, similar to Marti.  In the pictures posted it is noted this is an 1989.  It does look to have the 1989 Saleen Vin tag on the firewall.  This 89 Saleen is wearing 1987-88 style lower body side stripes.  There have been few 1989s that have these side stripes, so one should do some research here to see if this was an early 1989 that could possibly have these style stripes.  Also car is yellow (color change?, there are no apparent vin labels on inner fender edges) and engine compartment black(color change on engine comp?, can also see onion tops, top of strut also got sprayed black.  The beltline rubstrip should be the satin black color vs the body color.  Saleen painted the beltline rubstrip to match the body color in 1990 on only the SC models.  Again this could be something to check with contacting Saleen, as they also processed special order requests from their customers where this could have been painted by Saleen.
On the top inner shocktowers there are visible mounting holes for the oem Saleen Strut tower brace, which cannot fit when a Paxton is installed.  Another item to check is the Momo steering wheel.  There is a date code on the backside of the lower 6 o'clock spoke that should be an 1989 date.  Another Saleen unique component you can see in these pics is on the underbody up towards front of the transmission is the 2 point K-Member brace.

Here is a pic of the exhaust set up I outlined above with the Waldron 2-inch Transverse Muffler aluminized mild impostor. Also a video so you can hear the sound of the exhaust on our GT350.

On our GT350 #1341 we installed the following system.  All componenets fit well together.

Exhaust system is made up of components from a few sources vs going with the entire Scott Fuller system.
Factory Hipo exhaust manifolds
H-pipe and mid pipes are from Precision
Tail pipes and Chrome Tips are from Fuller
All clamps, brackets and hardware are from Fuller
Hi flow transverse muffler are from Waldron and it sounds fantastic!

From Google AI then AI dive deeper search.  Experts should validate

The Ford part number C7FF-18045-BT identifies a shock absorber designed for vehicles in the late 1960s, specifically for the 1967 model year.

Part Breakdown
Prefix (C7FF):
C: Denotes the 1960s decade.
7: Specifies the year 1967.
F: Indicates the Falcon model line.
F: The fourth digit typically identifies the engineering division; in some older systems, "F" can refer to General Parts or specific chassis engineering.

Basic Part Number (18045): This is the standardized Ford code for a shock absorber assembly. It is commonly used across various Ford models for front or rear suspension damping units.

Suffix (BT): Denotes a specific engineering revision or design variation. Variations in the suffix often distinguish between different valving, mounting hardware, or heavy-duty specifications.

Application
This specific part was primarily designed for the 1967 Ford Falcon. Its application is as a suspension dampener, responsible for controlling vehicle body motion, improving ride comfort, and ensuring tire contact with the road

I used Shelby Parts and Restorations.  They also plated each half of the claipers.

It's getting closer.

Fantastic!  Can't wait to see some lime gold on this beauty!!

"the underside was coated in red oxide primer."  right over the clearly visible severe pitting across the underbody!  maybe this is more of the "Survivor patina"....lol

https://www.facebook.com/share/14cfVr5v2BD/

A fellow mustang shelby friend of mine has this on auction.  Brand new never played.

Fender Stratocaster 325 HP Shelby GT electric guitar, featuring a black finish with the limited edition Shelby GT design theme including stripe and Ford logo decals, a rosewood fretboard, and chrome hardware. Guitar marked made in Mexico, serial number MZ7009690 on the back of the headstock. Neckplate numbered "Fender, 195 325 HP". Includes the Fender hardshell case marked Powered by Ford, case key, Fender certificates, tags, and accessories. Guitar measures approximately 38.5 x 12.5 x 3 inches. Case measures approximately 41.5 x 15 x 4 inches.


https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/219992869_fender-stratocaster-shelby-gt-electric-guitar-rare-sunrise-fl/?utm_source=LA_Mobile_Share&utm_medium=mobile&utm_campaign=LAiOSshare

Good afternoon all I'm dealing with a problem that I know you all can help me with, my car #0210 has the steel lined rear deck lid that was at some point repaired of some sorts by just using fiberglass strip cloth to bond the fiberglass to the steel lining. It looked very untidy so in the process of cleaning up I removed all the built up fiberglass cloth and revealed the 2 separate pieces. There is rust underneath when removed so I'm cleaning that up but how we're these 2 pieces bonded together and smoothed and blended for the correct finish? Here ia a picture and video to look at for reference. Can you help me out on repair recommendations for concours restored car? Thank you all in advance.

I would get some Hysol structural adhesive and bond the frame to the trunk skin.  After this has cured then I would proceede with the cut strips of fiber glass around the perimeter to give your tunklid the original fabricated look.

Make certain you locate he frame correctly so your trunk catch and latch will have alignment.

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15226.msg94985#msg94985

Well then, a tutorial on sidewall grinding would be pretty handy.

As would a direct link to the appropriate (IE: correct) lettering and such.

Just saying 

Tire lettering sellers are all over the internet. Do not depend on them to know what you need for a vintage tire. You have to spend the time to do your own research on application wording,size etc.I am not aware of a one click stop.

Here is what I did on our AVONs for 67 GT350.

https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=21308.msg174657#msg174657

If you contact TireStickers.com they should still have the digitized file they made off the template I made from a vintage polyglass Goodyear with 3/4" letter.

reference TireSticker order number 313106 placed on December 2, 2022 to help them locate their digitized file.