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I have one in my garage right now.  Great people, and excellent quality. I bought mine from Unique because I liked the fact that you can remove the transmission without having to pull the body. And they configure the chassis for the motor/transmission that you are going to put in. The build was flawless.  You are welcome to PM me for more details.

I do have vacuum at the distributor port. And I did email the restorer of the rebuild on Saturday. But what does it mean when stated that "Often "carb problems" are electrical in nature."

I am experiencing an issue with my 1969 428/C6 CJ Mustang. The car is stock, numbers matching in every way, with all the original components. It was running poorly, so I gave it a full tune-up. (Fouled plugs). That is all that was done. After the tune, it was re-timed to specs, it started, and ran well – until I put it in gear. Once shifted in to reverse, or any of the drive gears, it heavily bogs down, immediately stalling the engine. Checked for vacuum leaks – NONE.

The carb was RESTORED in July 2019 and looks great, and used to run great. I began checking the carb for adjustments, and by using the vacuum gauge, I discovered a couple of things.  I am carrying 12 "vacuum on a steady needle at idle. In trying to adjust the air/fuel on the metering block (FYI- Holley 4150  9510-U, LIST 4609), I started with the recommended 1 ½ turns out. When adjusting the passenger side air/fuel, I was able to achieve a little better vacuum reading with minimal adjustment. While attempting to adjust the driver's side air/fuel, when the metering screw was turned all the way in, it had NO effect on the carb or the running condition. Turning it out caused it to run too rich. I could never get it to a point that I could shift it in to any gear without the bog. Any suggestions or thoughts?  Problem in the idle circuit? Only a bad metering block?

Check with Shelbyparts to see if they have any left. Jim had them made years ago by original supplier

Agree.  I just bought a set from them.

Bob, I received the 1969 Supplement shop manual for the Shelby. Since I DID determine that my issue is in the circuit breaker, I have gone thru the wiring schematics, but cannot find what SIZE breaker I need to use on the interior light switch, OR, the FOG Light switch. I thought that I remember reading a while back that Shelby changed the FOG breaker to a 25 amp, but can't seem to find that publication. Can someone verify this, or advise me of what size breakers to use for both switches. 

Dielectric grease and channellocks. Got it. Now I just need the switch. Is there a way to "test" a switch before I put it in the car??

Thanks Bob. I will do a check on the rest of the harness.  Picture attached

Center console fog lamp switch needed.

I discovered some melted wiring on my fog light switch in the center console. This must have happened years ago during assembly when we had a hot lead to the fog lights themselves.  It burned up my lamp wiring, which I did replace when we corrected the grounding situation. I never thought to check at the switch though. FYI, my fog light have continued to work all this time. I just don't like to see burned/melted wiring exposed.

I finally discovered the source for my sound. It ended up being the relay for the switch to the interior lights on the center console.  Unfortunately, there is no part number or amp rating on the relay.  Does anyone know what size relay I should get, or where to obtain one? Especially one with a mounting bracket.  Also, it was a good thing that I took the console cover off. While there I noticed that the SWITCH for the fog lamps has melted wiring. I will post this on the wanted SAAC page, but if anyone has a lead to this switch, please let me know.

thanks. I will take a look

Very interesting. Which screws did you replace? Horn, headlamp switch, Steering wheel component?

69 GT500 with A/T, A/C and 8 track AM radio.  All stock

I need some help.  Electrical issues are my kryptonite.

I have a sound coming from under my dash that I cannot find the source of. It almost sounds like a relay trying to engage. The sounds is constant whether the key is on or off. Same with the engine running or not. I notice a flicker in the interior courtesy lights (with the door open) ever time I hear the click, which is about 1 a second. I have to disconnect the battery to keep the battery from running down. I have attached a sound recording, if that helps. What relays are under the dash? What else could cause this sound?

I've been using GCAR for over 30 years to do mine. Great prices, exceptional quality.

I've used Redline Gauges (661) 259-8891, for nearly thirty years. Shannon is a true professional and takes extreme pride in his work.

Are there any LED bulbs that I can swap out for the old style bulb that will work with my sequencer?