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FWIW - pictures of original 66 (Mar 66 build) K code Mustang with stepped tube housing. No L on fill plug. No gasket. Don't have my MPL handy to check.

Aluminum tail shaft. What is still confusing to me is that the H servo in video looks to have R servo PN on it. In the cars I have been in with R servo a little push on throttle and you were leaving rubber on gear changes. I had a friend who had a new 70 Cyclone 429SCJ C6 4:33 that you had to almost try not to fry the tires. That is same with my car - the tranny is tuned to go. My car is low mileage original. Another question I have is does the casting have any changes to servo bore housing that are noticeable when looking at trans with pan removed.

I have a May 68 build 427 GTE (H servo C6) and I have been in a number of R servo C6 428/429's back in the day. I have a number of anomalies in my car. My GTE hits gears just like an R clicks off the shifts. I think I need to pull that cover off and see what I got.

In the video what is really far fetched is it looks like the PN on the rare H Servo is the same PN as a R Servo.

Bob Mannel also wrote an article specifically on 289 HiPo C4 Automatic in Fairlaner May/June 2007. It offers substantial detail. Bob is prob on this forum.

As an owner of an orig 66 hipo C4 I would say they are different-I would say shift points are above 5800 and they only stay in first if selected, otherwise they shift out of first very very fast.

How do the tips attach? The illustrations and pictures for the exhaust on WCCC website for a 68 show a one piece pipe with made on turn down tips.

I think the G was same as GTE as far as tip attachment goes-from the factory, the tailpipe was straight cut and the tip was attached. There was a tailpipe hanger (" bracket and insulator") w/tailpipe hanger clamp and a pipe clamp for tip to pipe. The bracket and insulator mounted to rear rail-it was different then Mustang.

68 Cougars 302/390/427/428 utilized full dual exhaust-no transverse mufflers

On MCs often you balance the wheel w/o the tire (the valve stem is not always the heaviest point), mark heavy spot then mount the yellow dot to coincide with wheel heavy spot-the balance again to reduce weight.

Attached weights are sometimes a bit harder to attach securely.

We just had a discussion re intake bolts on a 67 GT500 and the 67 GT 500 did not use typical Ford FE intake bolts-so they were not transferred. In addition the Ford bolts are place bolts (ie: locking) and the Grade 5 substitute is not. A little confusing.

(https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=29106.0)

Are those bolts in your picture correct?

My FE has place bolts-so I looked it up in LM MPL and for 65-72 FE's, it specs a place bolt PN 370478-S it has FORD on top. AMK has it-I think it even says FORD. Didn't Shelby use same bolts?

Were FE engine hooks painted? Weren't manifolds not installed when engine was painted?

I have C60E-A on Drv and C70E-A on Pass (dated 8C14/8C16) on an early May 427 GTE build (eng assembled March - 8C30). The GTE is a Dearborn build. I would assume a GT500 built on approx same date-if GT500s were that built that late would be the same. There is NO spacer or control valve. The pass side manifold is machined for exhaust donut. The H-pipe is the later PN.

It is about the quality of the part: the metallurgy, the rubber compound etc,  but how do we know unless we try them (unless we test - if we have tool; like you did w/power valves). Some carb parts may be from storage and not updated. GM/AC Delco sells special fuel line for ethanol. I haven't had probs (that I know of yet) with my Mustang K code or my 427- I ran unleaded in both for a long time. I haven't had Holley or Autolite 4100 carb probs. The probs I had with my 50+ yr old BMW MCs showed up when they sat over the winter -when I ran regular unleaded through them and drove them I think I was better off.

BTW aren't they selling 15% ethanol now.

Here is pic of hole in carb.

Here is an example of what I believe was called by ethanol fuel. I have two vintage BMW motorcycles that I restored. I was riding them a fair amount using pump (ethanol added) regular fuel-they are post war and run a low compression. They are both two carb bikes. One year (around 2018) one carb started leaking-I fixed it. Two years later  the other one had a carb leaking. Both leaked at the bottom of fuel bowl-see pic. The inside of fuel bowl was eroded.

The other pic is after I fixed it - I am just showing off.

I have had fuel lines dissolve-but they were cheap lines on a tractor.

I run Sunoco leaded race fuel now - I can get it real close in cans or pump. Pricey but nice. I am finishing up on one om cars now  and will make the switch to Sunoco Race Fuel.