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Anyone have detailed photos or something resembling engineering drawings of the parts in the "Track Bar" kit that is shown in the Boss 302 chassis modification manual as Ford part no. DOZX 5A816-A ? It looks like it would be reasonable to duplicate if someone had enough info.

That looks like a match to the photos of the "Track Bar" shown in the Boss 302 chassis material. The photos in the chassis book don't show nearly enough detail to recreate the parts needed. If anyone out there has access to, or knows of a source for anything like engineering drawings or even detailed photos of the originals that info would be much appreciated. I'll start a new post so that any information provided will be easier to find in the future.

Do you mind sharing that paint code? I found a few of these and may paint some for my projects or make them available here.

I didn't mean to hijack this post but since the discussion moved to include some suspension history I thought it would be OK. You're correct Bob in that I was aware that panhard rods weren't original but it is such a common improvement on leaf spring cars in general, I figured it got added in pretty short order to a lot of the cars that were modified for serious racing. Is there an online source for the info from the Boss 302 chassis book? Is that book still available? I plan to take some liberty in making my "day-2" tribute car including wider modern tires so a panhard rod would keep me from having to flare the wheel wells excessively by reducing the axle movement. The commercially available panhard rods are too complex and polished to look like historically appropriate equipment. I'd rather build my own using a 60's version as a pattern.

Is there a panhard rod setup that would be considered "correct" for an R-model day 2 car?

What made you think you had the right to just jump into somebody else's car and sit in it? UNBELIEVABLE!!! I DON'T THINK YOU WOULD LIKE PEOPLE HOPPING IN AND OUT OF YOUR CAR.WOULD YOU?

     ROY

Take a pill Roy... the car was on the sales floor with other cars. They didn't mind me sitting in it, they just wanted me to be carefull since it was already sold.

I'll second the note about the Weaver family. I have visited their Alabama facility twice and in the classic southern tradition, they treat everyone like family and are as friendly as any business you'll ever encounter. On my second visit they had a 427 Cobra sitting in the showroom. While waiting for someone to come out of the shop to great me I decided to have a seat in the car. When Mama Weaver came out, I could tell she was a little stressed to find me in the car. Turns out it was a recently completed custom build waiting for the buyer to arrive so they didn't want some goon to put a scratch in it. The motor in the car had been built by Ernie Elliot, the brother and engine builder for Bill Elliot of NASCAR fame. The quality of their product is up there among the elite of the replicar industry.

Which Toyo are you suggesting? I had a Proxis 888RII 235/50 mounted on a Torq Thrust D 15x8" and it looks too small for the wheel well. Since that rim has a 4.5 backspace I can easily handle more width and diameter on the tire whithout rubbing issues (at least on the rear) but they don't offer it any larger than that.

Correction: the tire I tried on for size was the R888R.  Not sure what the difference is but the R is a track tire, not a drag tire.

I see that Nitto markets the NT555RII as a Radial drag/racing tire. The reviews look pretty good. Anyone tried them?

I saw the mention of the Mickey Thompson ET Street SS tires being stickey enough for a good drag racing tire but I'm wondering if they would work well on a road course or for spirited street driving? I think the 245/60 or even the 255/60 size would fill up the wheel well without rubbing issues on a 65. Anyone have any experience with them?

While a 67 Shelby convertible was never in the sales lineup, your project is legit because the original Shelby convertible concept car was built in 67 with all the 67 Shelby body parts. At least that's my understanding. You'll be building a replica of the concept car. Keep us posted on your progress.

I purchased a 66 mustang fastback as a shell with what I assume is the original 289 and a cast iron T10. Im building it as an R Model tribute with a stroked motor with modern internals so it should be in the neighborhood of 350-400HP. My question is, should I go ahead and upgrade to a toploader or is the T10 sufficient for the modern motor's power?

The original question was for instructions on installing the plexiglass side window frames. I never saw anyone post instructions or a definite source for instructions. I'm interested because I bought a set of the frames from a SAAC member but they didn't have any instructions for installation. If anyone has a source for instructions that would be great.

When you say 428, are you talking about an FE engine, or a stroker 351 Windsor engine?

      Roy

It's an FE built on a 428 block bored .0060 over and stroked.

So can you provide specific info on the formulation that came out on the dark end of the spectrum? The color on the car looks pretty good.