Messages

69 GT500, runs excellent and all OK with the cooling system (Modine #379 radiator, new fan clutch etc.).
Factory spec for 69 is 192 deg thermostat I think.
Can't locate a 190 deg stat so have been running a 195deg.
I installed a SW mechanical temp gauge and can see exactly when the thermostat opens and keep an eye on the temp.
All seems OK as temp never exceeds 200.
Just wondering what other big block owners are running esp. in climates with hot summers and cold winters.

Thanks,
TonyS

Is anyone rebuilding/restoring classic Ford distributor vacuum dual advance units now that
Tim O'Connor has retired?

Thanks,
TonyS 

Fox body Mustang/Capri/Cougar/LTD/Fairmont and other models quality Modine radiator.
Brand new in original box.
Modine part number:  IR 556 CR
Copper brass 2 row core standard duty/daily driver radiator with provision for auto trans.
4/6/8 cyl applications.
I've had this sitting for 30yrs.
Asking half the price I paid 30 yrs ago $75.
Prefer to deliver to Carlisle or someone local.
Shipping would be expensive and I'm not eating any of the cost esp. at this price.

Thanks,
TonyS
 

1969 GT500 9in axle
Attempted to remove the rear axle flexible brake hose for replacement however the the front to rear hard line fitting is frozen in the inlet portion that clips to the floorpan.
I used a quality line wrench and slowly applied a LOT if torque. (thoroughly soaked overnight in WD40)
Did not break loose however the hex is ever so slightly deformed.
Don't want to risk rounding it out.
What are some good suggestions, a little heat, grind a channel into the fairly thick round fitting first before
applying heat ?
Any and all suggestions appreciated.
I hope I described this correctly.
Thanks,
TonyS
 
 

1969 GT500 driver, have original rad stored for safe keeping and currently running the Modine 379.
Since this Modine rad is NLA what does anyone have experience with the current crop of copper/brass radiators.
How is the quality of ACP radiators?
US Radiator seems like an excellent product (pricey) but I don't have any first hand knowledge.

Any and all comments/suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
TonyS
 

What is the best option(s) to brighten the tail lights?
I have a 69 500.
Don't want to risk melting the housing or lenses.
I've read multiple articles in the now defunct Mustang publications however I'd like
to hear if anyone has real world experience and can provide recommendations.

Thanks,
TonyS

It seems accurate repro Shelby wheels for the 69-70 are getting pretty hard to find.
Besides accurate I don't think quality is demanding too much.

I bought a pair of custom 15x8 with 4in backspace from Specialty Wheels back in 2011.
(Think I paid $360 for the pair)
This was long after Tom Sensabaugh had passed away.
The company continued on for a good while after his passing.
 
They are fantastic, both the aluminum center and quality of the rim.
Others like to claim "high quality chrome rim" but my personal experience is not so.
For the outlandish asking price they should be top notch.
Perhaps they are resting on their laurels/reputation.

Coker Tire includes the name "Specialty Wheel" in their catalog but no 69-70 Shelby wheels are offered.
I spoke with Coker's reps at last years Carlisle All Fords but no meaningful explanation
was provided, just shoulder shrugs.

I wonder what the heck happened with Specialty Wheels molds/castings and pipeline of beautiful rims and why
none of the big name repro businesses could carry on
 

 
   

Any suggestions for a reliable repro fuel sending unit?
Application is for a 69 3/8 line.
Are the stainless steel units any good.
The big Mustang suppliers list several for the same application and it is confusing.
I'd like to hit on the best unit whether stainless or not.

Thanks,
TonyS 

Has anyone used the rod end clutch linkage with or without their supplied Z-Bar from Modern Drive Line or
Opentracker?
This would apply to drivers of course not show.
I would like to add to my driver 69 GT500.
If anyone has used either, any comments pos or neg.
I am going add the Scott Drake roller bearing kit to my pedal support and would like to supplement with
rod end linkage if possible.

Thanks,
TonyS

If anyone can recommend a person or shop in this area that would be great.

Thanks,
Tony S

For replacement hard brake lines I'd like some opinions/suggestions.
Stainless or regular mild steel ?
Also, any preference for supplier,  Classic Tube or Fine Lines.

Thanks,
TonyS

Solid info to start on.

Thanks Bob,
Much appreciated.

TonyS

69 GT500,  All stock, wiring etc.
Problem with the horns.
If both are plugged in they produce no sound.
Have to unplug the hi-pitch horn to get the low-pitch to work.
If the low pitch is unplugged the high pitch does not work.
Both horns were tested independently off the car and operate properly. 
Correct me if I am wrong but the Mustang does not use a horn relay.
I'm not very strong on electricals.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
TonyS

I would have a pro paint the car and that would mean focusing on the handful of A-list individuals/shops we are all familiar with.

I wouldn't have anyone run a 80 grit DA sander over the sheet metal or god forbid original
fiberglass.
You can kiss your high crown panels goodbye.
Just to emphasize, I did not sand my original factory SMC fiberglass however aftermarket replacement panels with a gloss gelcoat would have to be sanded before priming.
Concerning sheet metal, I've used most of the etching phosphoric acids, Metalprep, Sherwin Williams Dual Etch,
Dupont's ,the PPG product (can't remember their names) since I was a teenager and always had excellent results.
Just follow the directions.

Thanks,
TonyS
 

Why is it always recommended to put light sand scratches in bare sheet metal before priming?
I know it promotes adhesion but the factory never did this.
If you've ever stripped original paint using chemical stripper as I have many times you will not find any scratched sheet metal.   

There are plenty of original paint gems around showing no signs of peeling or lifting. Case in point, the Bob Perkins collection.
With the vast improvements in paint/primer chemistry what is the need for scratching virgin sheet metal???

I've only painted panels not a complete vehicle and my paintwork is as solid as the day it was applied and
it has been 20+ years.
On sheet metal I've used a Metalprep type chemical etching as per label instructions followed by PPG DP74.
On my original 69 Shelby fiberglass front valance after chem stripping and without any light sanding I used PPG DP50 and again no hint of an issue after 20+ years.
I was told to clean the fiberglass well and the DP50 will grab like hell.
If you've ever chem stripped original fiberglass panels you'll see they are as smooth as a baby's ass.

Just my thoughts and limited experience.
Thanks,
TonyS