Messages

What has been set up for overnight Shelby parking?  Will we be able to leave our cars at the track or do we have to drive them back and forth from the hotel?  Also, what about parking for transport trailers, track, hotel, somewhere else??

Bob:  Our car has the heat riser spacer, with no guts in it.  Would the carb idle come down faster with the butterfly flapper in the spacer?  I drove it the other evening and went probably 1 1/2 to 2 miles and the idle was still not down to a comfortable speed. 
Did these cars originally have the space with the butterfly valve when new?

Just placed my rebuilt (by Air/Fuel/Spark) carbs and a rebuilt (by John Slack) dual spark distributer on our GT500 #906.  My exhaust heat riser does not have the butteryfly flapper and hardware on it.  Seems like it takes a long time to get the automatic choke to warm the forward carb enough to get it to idle down.
Should the heat riser have the butterfly and hardware and if so does anyone know a source for one of these?

Thanks. Terry Hill

So our 1967 GT500 has an after market distributor on it with a vacuum advance.  Is the factory correct distributor a Autolite C5AF 12127 E?  I have also seen ads for Autolite C5AE distributor listed as correct.

Anyone tell me what's correct??

Thanks, Terry.

Had a similar issue with #906 a few years ago during a streak of hot weather here in the great Pacific Northwest and had to have a new core in the radiator and also had Flo-Kooler replace the impeller in the water pump with one that flowed more water than the original.  Seemed to solve the problem.

The speedometer in our GT500 has always been off.  New 3.00 gears a few years ago and I can't figure out the proper driven gear to use.  I think I've changed every color of the driven gear and still no luck.  I see today that the speedometer reads about 10 MPH below zero when not moving, the needle doesn't rest on the zero.  Am I losing 10 MPH from the get go?  This is an automatic car.  Is there any way to set the needle to zero?  I've tried the tire measurement calculations and nothing works.

Thanks to all.

I want to make a shout out to Dave Mathews and his steering wheel puller he had made for use on the '67 Shelby wheels.  Our GT500, #906's steering wheel would not come off.  Tried the center punch on the steering column, the air chisel trick but this thing wouldn't budge.
I contacted Dave and he was nice enough to send me the puller he had made and a thing of beauty it is.  This thing is top quality, fits like a glove and with a little use of a flex bar on the center bolt, off pops the steering wheel.  I used more time placing the wheel puller around the wheel hub than it took to tighten the bolt and remove the wheel.
I want to thank Dave for the use of the puller, his knowledge of the GT500's and his contributions to this forum.  A nicer man you will not find.

Terry Hill

OK, thanks for those responses.  I think I'll try some new pan bolts and retorque.  I see 9-11 lbs. for the oil pan and 12 lbs. for the trans pan.  Sound correct??

Happy New Year to all!  I have a hard time keeping my oil pan bolts and the bolts on the auto. trans. oil pan tight on my '67 GT500, #906.  Seems like 2 or 3 times a year I'm under the car tightening them.  My present oil pan bolts have the "captured" lock washer and the trans. oil pan bolts have the "hex washer" heads as per the AMK catalog nomenclature.  The AMK catalog shows a "Ford Oil Pan" bolt on page 97, bottom line, far left corner of the page.  This bolt has a "conical" captured washer.

I see in the NPD catalog, "concours" bolt kits for each of these application.  Page 185, item #7A194-2AK for the trans. bolts and page 144, item
#6675-4AK for the oil pan bolts.

Which of these options is correct?  Especially for the oil pan, captured lock washers or conical head captured.  And are the trans. pan bolts listed correct?  Anything special about them?

Thanks for any responses.

OK, thanks to all for the quick reply.

Terry

Can someone please set me straight?  "67 GT500, outboard lights are only low beam and inboard lights are high beam?
My car presently has outboard lights that are low/high beam and inners that come on with high beam.

Looking for new bulbs that's why I'm asking.

Thanks for the help.

Terry

OK, I'll take a look.

Thanks.

Anyone know know where I can purchase some rubber drain tubes for the air extractors (upper scoops) on my '67 GGT500?  These have the "belled" end where they attach onto the extractor bottom.

Thanks for the help.

OK, thanks for all the suggestions and comments.  I may have found a set of used originals.  Will need to be re-covered.  Has anyone used "Just Dashes" for door panel re-covering or can recommend someone else to re-cover these??

Thanks.

#906 should be coming back from the paint shop next month.  I'm busy getting all the interior parts cleaned up and ready for re-installation.  I've never been able to get my door panels (re-pops) to fit flat against the doors (originals unfortunately long gone).  My panels have a stiff foam filling in the back of them and are pretty much non-flexable.  They also have a bit of a curve to them from top to bottom which makes them want to pull away from the door.

What are other using for deluxe door panels??  I see some that have "hard press board", "masonite" wood backing and "MDF" backing.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for any help.