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I build one out of 1/2" cdx plywood and bolt it to the box. I cut the plywood on the ends with lift handles so it is easy to handle in shipping. Do not use flakeboard. That will break easily.

This is a great vid. Thanks for posting it. I never saw it before.

I'm looking for a original 428 oil dipstick tube. The after market's do not fit very well. thanks 

Neither do the originals. With them we just accept it because that's how Ford built them.
I found the current reproductions to be very accurate.
Watch your dipsticks. They vary according to years because Ford was adding oil capacity to the original pans.

Ah, seller's remorse. Your bumming me out man!

 

     So, how's your eyesight doing?    

     Scott. 
[/quote]

It comes and goes like my cognizance. You see sometimes I have an overwhelming feeling that I am intelligent and have some knowledge. Not to worry. That passes quickly.

If you want a debate, you picked the wrong guy. I thought we were attempting to have an intelligent conversation. Forgive me for my mistake.

You can lecture away to your hearts content. I won't stop it. As some would say, "bless your heart". 

The BOSS 302 adapters have a sort of thermostatic bypass circuit . . . . 

It's a spring loaded steel ball bearing that, when seated, seals the passage to the radiator...I'm assuming.

When it's pushed off the seat with hot/thin oil, I'm assuming enough oil gets routed through the cooler to bring down the temps.

To my knowledge it is in fact an oil thermostat opening around 180° F. The same "technology of a ball on a seat and a thermal spring expanding with heat . . . . 

    I don't think so . . . . . Rather, there 'is' a spring-loaded ball valving function provided that is "pressure" sensitive, and that will unseat and allow (some) oil to bypass the cooler routing 'if' the pressure differential between the adapter's "outlet" (to cooler) and "inlet" (from cooler) is to great; the threshold being the pressure differential, as acting on the exposed area of the ball vs. the spring pressure value, aka. the cooler becomes plugged or a hose-line becomes crimped or crushed.   

    But I suppose, if the oil is so cold and thick as to create the pressure differential effect. this in the attempt to pump the oil the distance through the cooler and it's associated plumbing, then O.K., this might qualify as temperature responsive, but I don't think that was actually the intended function, but more of a "possible" side effect? 

    Scott

It is VERY difficult to get the engineering details on the intent of the "pressure valve".
Even people like Jon Vermersch can't answer that question.

The 67-8 GT500's with the Shelby oil cooler have no "pressure relief valve"  but they do need an oil thermostat.

Since generally they run on a stock pan with just 5 quarts and the FE is a heat pump itself, particularly with A/C, it doesn't take much to heat up the oil.

There is no need for a pressure relief valve on these adapters. You are not going to blow up the oil filter. It is much more likely for thermal control and if you want to mess with it there ARE aftermarket thermal spring available that are actually quite accurate in their advertised heat ranges. On a car like a 70 B2, who's going to go racing with it now and need to mess with it?

IF you run the setup now, the oil cooler and output hoses will be closer to air temp until the engine gets hot. I've measured this and although at my age now sometimes I question my sanity not my incompetence, that is what I have experienced.

I will point out however that apparently I am not an Earthling and originate on the planet Zluto. So that might explain why I see things differently on occasion? At least that is what my wife insists. She claims to have proof after 40 years together?
Who knew? Don't trust Martians though. They're no good.

I get that.

The BOSS 302 adapters have a sort of thermostatic bypass circuit that I'll accept works on the drag cars good enough to maintain oil temps within spec for warranty purposes. 

It's a spring loaded steel ball bearing that, when seated, seals the passage to the radiator...I'm assuming.


When it's pushed off the seat with hot/thin oil, I'm assuming enough oil gets routed through the cooler to bring down the temps. 

Seems kinda primal to me but as long as it was properly made to use the physics of pressure/volume/temp, I trust it'll work as designed.

Other than:
-not using the spec'd oil viscosity the -calibrated spring being out of spec

...I'm not sure what could go wrong.

You won't find any kind of mention in any Ford literature or specifications on the bypass.
Officially it is called a pressure release valve.

To my knowledge it is in fact an oil thermostat opening around 180° F. The same "technology of a ball on a seat and a thermal spring expanding with heat is still used today for the same reasons.


PBF777's comment about the oil NEEDING to be a certain operating temperature is very accurate and it is possible to damage the engine internally in trying to turn high rpm's with the oil cold.

Many professional drag race cars in fact use oil heaters to get to operating temps.


I have the 70 B2 adapter with a 68 Shelby cooler in my 68 GT350. In my Pantera I have a separate thermostat that is set to open at 210°F. The Shelby has a total of 10 quarts in the system with a Canton road race pan and the Pantera takes 12 quarts with an Aviad pan.

That's an awful lot of oil to get hot in both instances. I don't run either in under 40° F temps. They get parked until spring comes around.


One reason that you need to run not just warm oil, but hot oil is that the bearing clearances are set by standardizing what the thickness of the oil will be at operating temps.

High performance oils are formulated with those requirements in mind so don't worry about hurting it.
When you get up around 250°F, then that's when you need the oil cooler.


Although Ford recommended 20-50 weight oil in the "high performance Clevelands" caution should prevail on reving the engine particularly if you live in a cold climate and you are driving in winter temps.

The Ford FE's are also sensitive to the oil temp thing. The 289's are the least sensitive to it.


Over cooling the oil is actually your enemy and in reality you want to run at least 210° F in order to boil off the water that has accumulated in the oil. That's the white stuff that you see when you change the oil. Left to sit for long periods it actually can be quite destructive creating internal rust and corrosion if constantly run too cold.

If in doubt about oil temps being too low, increase the pressure in the cooling system to 15psi. The new cars run a zero oil because they are designed to run hot in the 220° to 250° range using a high pressure cooling system. You aren't in trouble with them until you are a good deal over that.

There are 3 versions of c9zz windage trays early 69 late 69 and 70 with the 2 side cutouts but its more a running change same as the later fe oil pan baffle. The cutout got bigger by the oil pan pickup tube area.

Are there advantages to one over the other? I have never heard a discussion of that subject.

Rod,
Get the specs for the cam you are currently using and call a cam company directly and get advice from them. Summit Racing actually helped with a great tech line and answered all questions I had.
Comp Cams should also offer help. Hope it will be a simple solution.
R.R.

There is some disagreement on cam profiles even with the cam companies.

With an FE, because they all have very poor exhaust ports, going to a 110° separation is counter productive. The closer the seperation gets, the more the exhaust has to be non-restrictive.

Now I went to the compcams solid 236/236 solid lifter "Magnum" 33-245-4. That idles at about 900 and has about 14 inches of vacuum at idle. I am using it with a Ford c/r 4 speed 3.50 gears and 1-3/4" primary tube headers.

It is acceptable, sounds good and pulls hard.

My engine builder had recommended a cam with a 113° separation explaining 110° was just beating on the valvetrain for no reason. I went compcams anyway.

The Clevelands with the stock iron heads have the same issues.

At one point, you could get Faria themselves to go through it.

Now I don't even know if Faria still exists, but they did it for quite a while after production of the Shelby's ended.

I should point out the rear tail light panel has "Cal Automotive" stamped on it

This is froma a wrecked GT 350

Mine is off of the car right now and I do not see that "stamping" on mine.

It isn't on the back, it is inside the front opening, see attached...

Oh! I never noticed that before.

I keep looking for the s7ms id on the back of the scoops but don't see them (it) in the pictures. Do you have a closeup of them (it)?

So the car and engine have 49,000 original miles , however the distributor was replaced with a service hipo
distributor sometime in its life and, I replaced it with a correct one but missed the fact of bushing wear
can't really say how many miles on it must be a lot.

Yup. The play needs to be limited to .001". If the points cam wobbles at all when you wiggle it, it needs to be replaced. Usually knurling the shaft is enough, certainly for the amount of miles you are likely to put on the car now.

Every .001" it moves, the points setting is off .002". So there is no way to set the points accurately or set the dwell. Those need to be within .001".

Not to worry though, they are not complicated to have rebuilt accurately but I would recommend that you seek out a specialist and discuss the issue of play in the points cam assembly. So everyone is on the same page of what needs to be done and what will be done.

The bad thing about those "Hedge Fund" buyers and those Investors is, when they buy the Cars, they are pretty much put away rarely to be seen again.

That is showing more and more at the national convention. Less and less cars attending.