Messages

.................. anti-seize should be used on anything that is taken apart more then just once in a while.

     But, when vocalizing this referencing lug studs & nuts you might get quite a different thought on the matter, this from a rather large group and including many of those individuals who have been responsible for the engineering thoughts and decisions of major manufactures.     

     It would appear nothing is ever as simple as it might seem, when one begins to really think about it!     

     Scott.


     

About 15 years ago or so, Shelby Parts & restoration had some made out of stainless hex rod.

     Not implying anything wrong with the product or the supplier mentioned as I have no experience with it; but "generic" stainless steel rod material, and although there are many alloys of S.S., is often something along the lines of say a 304 S.S. coupled with a heat treatment process which I would find questionable as for making a suitable fastener material for this application.  Also note that S.S., even the right stuff, has a bad habit of galling (likes to get friendly with like material and readily with aluminum also); so to avoid this one should utilize an anti-seize product in the process of attachment (not only on the tread, but in this instance, also on the interacting seating faces of the nut to the wheel face); but if one also subscribes the popular thought that lug-nuts are intended to be installed "dry", well, we have another problem.     

It's easier and safer to redrill the wheel to match that.

     Well...........as I often say, that makes you the new (wheel) engineer!     

     Scott.

...................But - for a different set of wheels I need tapered ones.

     Note that there has been more than one angle used over the many different wheels produced over the decades requiring such, so be sure to establish the correct angle for what-ever wheels are being used.   

     For instances where for proper fitment an open-end lug nut is not available, we have utilized the long closed-end nut and just cut (lathe) the cap off to create the open-end feature ( ), though realize that the machined surface will not have chrome or other originally applied appearance or corrosion protecting surface coating remaining.     

     Scott.

you need at least a proper shouldered bolt to go through the drive flanges.....

     This I agree with, and we often find ourselves shortening the threaded section on an otherwise to long of a bolt in order to have a greater shank portion length available for the instances of component alignment and shearing load application, as is being presented in the application described; but avoid using the flat washers, particularly the lower grade types, rather utilize flange head fasteners as this provides for a more stable installation engineering.     

      Scott.

     

    3.  Without first ascertaining frame correctness ruling out an off-squared frame the transverse spring may NOT be the problem. 
    4.  I would not start with the spring.  First find out if the frame is square, then measure to see if the rear differential /  spring is centered and if it is the tire rubbing problem is not from a misaligned rear differential / spring perch.
    5.  The problem may simply be a body mod fix. 
    Take the car to a reputable frame straightening outfit and confer with them regarding the squareness of the chassis before touching the mechanicals.

     I agree with this summation as being a reasonable approach, but realize that if the capable 'frame shop' is not available to you, or you wish to execute this on your own, it is quite possible thru the not so complicated process to "plumb-bob" the specific mounting points of the more complicated to measure three dimensional chassis converting such to a simple two dimensional observation that makes it much easier to identify any significant dimensional irregularities particularly those of the horizontal plane reference.     

     Scott.

The rear tires are shifted slightly towards the drivers side of the rear fenders.

     The question is:  Is the spring and related suspension mounting positions actually "shifted" to one side, as measured from the frame, or is it the body work that is off-centered?

Is adding a leaf, or re-arching the springs a choice anyone here has made? I am in Northern California, so finding a shop experienced with re-arching might be a challenge?

     Adding "a" (may require more?) leaf, will raise the vehicle up, but additional leaves, arched to match the existing ones will increase the spring-rate and harshness of the ride; whereas "re-arching the existing spring stack will raise the vehicle with less effect on the ride harshness.     

     Scott.

............. you might be getting a visit from the police very soon. Shame on the New York state DMV for being so stupid.

     In the first instance, it often amazes me the attention that this issue might garner from the police, versus say chasing some real criminals (that is assuming that the owner isn't trying to market this fraudulently     ); "safe-work" I think is how one would label it.       

     And in the case of the DMV, what do you expect from some typical civil-service employees where there is no recourse for one's ineptitude, or just plain lazy, I don't give a syte, I get paid the same, don't do their job attitudes!       

     Scott.

     I can't identify the wheels (wheel covers?) in the last picture, certainly don't look like the wheels on the car up for auction?   

     Scott.

I don't buy that crap that 10 year old tires are dangerous.

     Well I'll tell you that old tires can surely be unreliable!       But with reasonable assessment of the condition and consideration for intended use often older tires can still be of use. 

     Besides, I'm trying to reduce my carbon footprint, I'll run'em down to the cord, and be disappointed if I have to throw out any tire with tread on it, no matter its' age!     

     Scott.

     The stupid is everywhere, I have experienced the same difficulties when attempting to have old tires mounted, if only to just hold vehicles up off the ground; the result is that I have realized I must mount them myself.  I even have purchased a tire mounding-dismounting machine, particularly for my truck tires, as they really are a little much to do by hand.     

     Also many establishments will not mount a tire size not listed (in their computer     ) for a particular chassis by the O.E.; nor will some sell and mount tires on wheels unless the vehicle is present, this in order to establish proper application of the product.  So I guess with these policies in place, you'll get a big no!, if you ask them to mount your Polyglass  N50's on your 10" rims for '70 Camaro?   

     And good luck, at getting anyone these days to get near the 'split-ring' rims (sometimes, but improperly referred to as "split-rims", though there is such, and I have some vehicles with such, but that's different, but they won't touch them either!) on the older trucks.     

     Thanks, to the greedy self important P.I. Attorneys and the greedy low-rent clients that they attract, they have corrupted this portion of the judicial system into a money-making revolving door industry that just nullifies the righteous instances that deserve attention, and as presented by the O.P., but not limited to, interferes with the common function of our society.     

     Scott.

    Thanks!   

    Scott.

     An FE single point distributor w/ Autolite housing #C8AF-12127-M, date code 8B9, w/ autolite dual vac/retard canister #C8AF-12378-C; can someone tell me what application it was originally intended to fit?

     Thank you,
     Scott.

I'd let a pretty gal sit on the roof of my KR, but never on the trunk of my Kirkham.

     I'd bet if a pretty gal like that asked, you'd let her sit anywhere she wanted!   

     Scott

     And hopefully the friction material hasn't been pulled away from the marcel plate vs shearing from the corroded flywheel and or pressure plate!     

     Scott.

It's just a curiosity to me but why would only the transistorized distributor have them?

     I have found the felts under the rotor on many a standard points style distributor, but of course I'm not positive I could say they were there "day 1", but I wonder if so many individuals really were so concerned if in servicing the points said: "oh look, the felt is missing, I had better go down to Ford and get one" (but I have at times found some ragging material substituted, apparently in some of these possible instances of concern); but I do know the felts were continued into the Dura-Spark era for sure.       

     Scott.