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Blue lite special! Price reduced to $99 + shipping. You need this to repair the door jamb on those cars that were hit or rusty.

Bought this years ago for a project and never used it. The lower plate has no nipple for emission. I never checked to see if it has been closed or if it is original. Just needs to be put back into action! OK.........$100 + shipping.

Sold to Kurt

Have this original lower that needs paint and dent removal dated 6A. Not a repo. $75 + shipping? Sold

One very critical part of wheel/tire balancing for vibrations is measuring and correcting lateral/radial runout before balancing. Check for bent wheel,etc.I went to many Ford schools for NVH ( noise,vibration,harshness) and as customers got fussier about the cars,the better they had to become. One of the reasons manufacturers started using aluminum wheels was to hold runout of the wheel to a minimum because steel wheels usually had a lot of variances. Then tire quality became more important. Ford had strict quality limits for tires that came on a new Ford. Replacement tires were not quite as good. We used to dismount and rotate the tires on the rim to try and reduce total runout by matching hi/low of rim to tire. Then there were those heavy wheelcovers that could be out of balance to ruin your efforts of balancing. Then there was "road force" effects from hard/soft areas of the tire as it rolled causing vibrations. Some tire dealers had machines to cut/true the outer surface and reduce total runout......best Ford instructor said it best,"you can balance an egg,but it won't roll smoothly". Find a big tire dealer that handles race tires and they understand and have the equipment needed. Picture is of tool we used to measure runout of tire tread.

My experience has been after tracking down and buying any of the original or NOS SEALED BEAMS that first test resulted in almost immediate burning out of filament,resulting in the glorious grey smoke that also ends up on the reflector...."No returns on electrical parts"
My "collector" sealed beams are never,ever exposed to 12 volts. Deduct all you want,but I will not destroy a perfect bulb to answer an obvious question. Ever smoked one?      It hurts.

Is the FoMoCo logo etched into glass or molded?

I bought this for my GT 350,but found original Cobra unit. This is not for the "NOS ONLY" restorer,but a very nice,original piece. Nice,tight release and hinge. Asking $125 + shipping

sold

Tough to find these today. These reinforce the latch area from behind. $99+ shipping.
Make me an offer!

Mint in original Ford packaging. Not the Chinese tinfoil crap. $250 OBO+ shipping.
Not going to Columbus ,but still give good deal!

Nice original (unmolested) intake manifold. Needs cleaning,but good condition. $175 + shipping. Cleaning out a corner of shop and this is on the chopping block this week!

That is why I included a picture from shop manual. Makes it easier for novice to understand. I am retired Ford tech after 43 years and had a few on my list and even under warranty! Yes, 8B,I see where our terminology is just crossed,same issue. At this point it is hard to know what is causing the problem,but one thing it is not,is the pitman arm. Two different grease/lube points. Sometimes the sleeve gets damaged by using "pickle fork" to seperate. Do not use that type tool. I find it easier to have the valve on the bench,not under the car while servicing. Good luck

Try Ebay. Found quite a few there.Yes,they had front plate also and required.You will need to find matched pair. Not too hard to find NOS at local Illinois swaps.

Pete,I reference your site very often and find the amount of good info to be amazing. I,for one,appreciate all your efforts. Since I have decided to sell my car I think I am looking for reference material that will support my asking price and naturally I found Hagerty. I insure through them and get advice on values from them. Most all Shelby enthusiasts reconize the Hagerty name and I feel since they are not selling cars,but buying to replace loss/claim , their valuations might be a tool to justify price. Gotta start someplace......

Pitman arm pivot? Not even close. The pitman arm is not part of control valve assembly....here is a picture of the valve from Ford shop manual. Note the "lubrication plug" that lubricates the control /spool valve. Just a little grease can free up the valve.