Messages

   Some were/are concerned about the shock "bottoming out and damaging the valving due to the upper control arm lowering of 1". Too much additional spacer runs the shock into the hood so less than 1" is often used. Bud Moore felt the whole bracket should be raised for improved strength and made aluminum plates to go under the shock bracket itself.
    Randy

I'm curious as to why SA installed the "special" upper shock attaching bolts (with the thinned-out heads) if there is adequate spacing to allow for "riser" plates to be installed. I was under the impression that it was for hood clearance. Any thoughts?

Frank

TS, when you say "rubber bushing", what are you referring to? Are you referring to the extended rubber boot on the transmission seal? Does Roland have an existing yoke that he can compare dimensional measurements with (like the outside diameter of the slip yoke)?

By what you are describing, I would suspect that the internal splines of the yoke are binding on the splines on the main shaft. I guess that the outer diameter of the slip yoke could be larger than the inner diameter of the tailshaft housing bushing, but that could be easily determined by a comparison outside diameter measurement with the old yoke (if there is one).

Food for thought.

Frank

While we are on the subject of correct lug nuts-What is the correct lug nut for '66 Magnum 500-equipped cars?

Thanks guys

Frank

Could this be real?


https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ultrarare-canadian-1965-ford-falcon-hi-po/?wc_mid=4035:15141&wc_rid=4035:1188893&_wcsid=31226246698D10CDABA32727DA6C69B91D39208C10F37A34

Ive had two of these cars in here the last year and both had these bolts and nuts on them.  I believe I was the first one to take the cars apart

Jim, was the bolt with the recessed face and captured lock washer the bottom bolt?

Thanks. I appreciate the feedback/pictures.

Frank

   Frank,
       The bolts used on 6S477 ( one of the earliest to have a Mico) were  , two non plated, 9/16ths wrench size . 3/8ths coarse by 1" long on the upper two holes and a ''header bolt" 7/8ths thread length , on the bottom hole.  It is important to note my car along with MANY others had the mounting bracket changed "under warranty" to an "improved design" @ High Performance Motors.  Sooooo, the question "could be" did a mechanic @HP use a header bolt on purpose or was it done at SAI?  I have seen it on several other cars so I know it wasn't a fluke. The header bolt is the same style as the header bolts supplied by Cyclone ( not Rockwell) at the time. Those masters were installed at SAI so some bolts had to be added by SAI over those assembly line furnished bolts.  I would like to hear what other "un molested" cars have. I say unmolested as the header bolt could easily be mistaken as "previous owner/mechanic added".
     Randy

I have also seen the header bolt a number of times.

GREAT feedback, guys! My followup question would be: Was the bottom MC mounting bolt on cars with a later serial number (my serial is 6S803) a header bolt? If so, was it a Cyclone style or maybe a Rockford style (the bolts used on my headers are Rockford)?

As always, thanks for your responses. This forum is extremely helpful.

Frank

Guys, I need some confirmation regarding the 3 bolts that attach the master cylinder to the firewall adapter.

Were these bolts 3/8-16 x 1.00" long hex-head (9/16") "garden variety" plated hardware store (from yester-year) units that had no head markings? Or were they...................?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank

Here's couple pictures of real radiator tops. They look like the ones in the E pay add.

Frank

I think what is confusing the issue is the concept of inputing the "fourth gear ratio". In reality there is no fourth gear ratio because fourth gear is 1 to 1. When the gear selector is in fourth gear, the transmission main shaft is linked directly to the input shaft. In theory, you could completely remove the cluster gear from the transmission when the gear selection is fourth gear. It does nothing but rotate with no power being directed through it.

What you need to factor in to the equation is the ratio of the input shaft to the cluster gear (26/29) which many have said. The cluster gear rotates slower than the input shaft so by dividing the respective gear ratios by that of the input shaft/cluster gear you get the actual gear ratio.

Frank

I saw this item in Craigslist. I thought it might be of some interest.

Frank

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/6750102494.html

. I bought my kit from MICO about 4 years ago through one of their local dealers (they will refer you to a near-by dealer if you need any parts). Contact MICO directly to get your necessary parts/kit and THEN tell the dealer what to order. The dealers will only muddy the water if they are in the specifying loop and you might not get what you need on the first go around.

It's now time to bite the bullet.

I hope this helps.

Frank

Frank the game has changed. Mico or their dealers no longer keep parts in stock. They are made (in Mexico) on a special order basis.  Had to wait 14 weeks for last one I did

TLea, that's bad news! My guess is that the next step will be total obsolescence. That's why I bought my kit when I did even though I wasn't ready to work on my MICO at that time. deathsled (and others), you may want to order (take a number and wait) a rebuild kit and put it in your closet with the master cylinder. Even if you don't rebuild your master cylinder yourself, whomever does rebuild it will need a "kit" to do the job.

Frank

I am PLANNING on rebuilding my MICO myself. It is not apart yet so I can't tell if the piston bores will need to be sleeved (I've got my fingers crossed). White Post Restorations is one of the companies that will "sleeve" a MICO master cylinder (in brass). I bought my kit from MICO about 4 years ago through one of their local dealers (they will refer you to a near-by dealer if you need any parts). Contact MICO directly to get your necessary parts/kit and THEN tell the dealer what to order. The dealers will only muddy the water if they are in the specifying loop and you might not get what you need on the first go around.

It's now time to bite the bullet.

I hope this helps.

Frank

Guys, I'm in the beginning stages of rebuilding the original MICO master cylinder from my GT-350H (6S803). My primary question is whether or not the casting was bare or painted black? My original casting IS painted black as are many of the internet-posted pictures of this type of master cylinder. I know that this question has been asked/debated before (probably on Forum I?) and folks have posted that their master cylinder casting was "bare". I've noticed also that the steel brake lines are also painted black in some of the photos (I replaced my original lines many years ago and don't remember if they were painted or not). Would either finish be deemed correct? If there are others that have the painted casting, can we get some statistical data?

Any/all shared wisdom would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank

I don't think that this is one of the products that you NEED to carry in your car. You really don't have to use it too often as it takes a while for brake dust to accumulate (unless you have brake pads with a high metallic content). If you think about it, ANYTHING that will chemically remove nasty old brake dust (without scrubbing) has got to be potent stuff! I store mine on the shelf of a metal cabinet in a plastic tray and use it when necessary. The only "cleaning" products that I carry in the car are detailer spray and glass cleaner-both of which are pretty benign (chemically).

You have the right idea about wearing gloves when using any product of this type. You need to wear safety glasses/eye shielding also. It is nothing to be paranoid about-just respect it's hazards.

Frank

I'm glad you found the CODE Red to your liking. FYI, Surf City Garage has other great products in their product line.

Frank