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Hi - I have a '69 Shelby with a glove box/map light that won't turn off.  It has a switched ground to turn it on and off by the glove box pin switch and the mechanical switch on the light housing.  The thing is, it works perfectly when the clock dash-panel isn't fully installed (wired but pulled away from dash for testing). Once installed, the light is always on because it's being grounded by the metal construction of everything around it, screws, metal clock panel, light housing, and socket.  My assembly manual doesn't specify but I'm wondering if there should be a gasket or isolator somewhere between these parts?  Anyone else run into this problem?

1969 GT350 with A/C:  How is the Engine Gauge Feed Harness and a/c wire secured along the valve cover leading back towards the firewall?  My assembly manual is to faded to see how these are managed.  I've heard there's a single rubber-coated clip fastened by the center valve cover bolt.  Does that sound correct? Thanks and have a great day!

I'm chipping away at 55 years of wiring butchery on this '69 Shelby and found this resistor mounted inside the engine bay.  Someone hacked into the dash harness and ran a couple of pink wires to it.  I'm guessing this wasn't original equipment? I'm hoping someone can confirm. 

By the way, one of the pink wires is spiced into a red/green wire leading to the ignition switch, the other is spliced into a brown wire that shares the same plug terminal with the factory resistor wire. This car has a tach and it looks like the factory pink resistor wire leads to it. 

Hi all,
I'm replacing a "69-70 SHELBY DRIVING LIGHT UNDER DASH INTERMEDIATE WIRING HARNESS."

The original intermediate harness that I'm removing from the car has a green wire with red tracer connected to the brake switch plug.  The new intermediate harness has this same wire, green with red tracer (maybe 14 gauge), with a 90-degree spade terminal.  I'm attaching a stock photo of the harness showing the wire.  After going through numerous schematics, I can't confirm that this is correct?  I've also replaced the main dash harness that already has the brake switch plug wired up to both terminals (solid green and  a green wire/red tracer, 16 gauge).

Hi,
I'm installing a new tail light harness and routing it exactly how the old one was in the car (red arrow).  It travels from the trunk, over the fender well and behind the rear window track assembly (closer to the outside sheet metal). Now that it's in there, I see that the wire that goes to the quarter-panel light is a little too short to reach (black/blue tracer). I went back to the old original harness and noticed that someone had lengthened that wire a few inches. Now I'm wondering, should the harness be routed in FRONT of the window track (see blue dotted line) to move it in closer? This would also line up the harness a lot better with the channel it runs through under the door sill. Does anyone know (or have pics) how Ford would have originally routed this part of the harness? Again, I followed the same path as the old harness but there's no guarantee that it was in there correctly to begin with.  Thanks in advance!

Greetings - I'm diving into a 1969 Shelby convertible and want to remove the rear interior quarter panels without damaging them. They fit around the roll bar with a relief cut to flex around the bar to install/remove.  These panels are the old brittle originals and already show signs of cracking from previous handling over the years.  Once everything is out of the way, I'm wondering if anyone has any successful tips to getting these out without risking further damage. Careful warming with a heat gun?
Thanks much!

Greetings, I'm trying to track down a new chrome breather, just like this one stamped AUTOLITE.  I'm working on the car for a customer and he either wants this part re-chromed (a challenge with the way it's assembled) or find a new one.  Any tips or suggestions would be great.  So far, the only repro's I've found are stamped FoMoCo.  Thank you very much!