Topics

Symptoms- Temp gauge to H in less than 1 mile and at 135 degrees (used laser on block). New Ford sending unit and thermostat. No pulse at gauge wire solid light. Volts at gauge wire 7V not 5V. I feel like the IVR is bad but before i open the patient id appreciate any thoughts. Thanks

as you can see im missing some bolts and the latch area needs a cleaning. Can some confirm which bolts are used here? it appears the center bolts must have a nut? the others have threads in the radiator support. Bolt design is important and colors as i want to be accurate. Thanks! -John

looking to replace the long seal that is stapled to the radiator support. only interested in excellent original please. Thanks

The tag on my car #02090 was stolen when the car was stolen in the 80's. Upon its return it is still without the tag. Obviously reaching here but I know many folks collect Shelby stuff. If you have the tag by some small chance please let me know.

I got a call from the original owner (his son) that I bought my 68 350 from. He is claiming to have found what he believes was the original motor (short block) to my car in their barn. If true its been there since 1971 and is very corroded! Anyhow its in a very difficult location (fell through floorboards) to get at so I cannot see the VIN stamping or castings without a real commitment and half a day. I can see the stamping on the front surface near the water pump which 8C4Y. My car was built 4/23/68. I certainly hope it is the block, but before I commit my time digging it out and I suspect a lot of $$, I want to be sure based on these numbers it seems right. Thoughts?

Sorry to offend my Shelby friends!!! But i would be willing to swap or make a deal.

Other than the speaker hole mine are great! Love to replace them. Let me know what you have. -John

Been hearing very mixed reviews on the quality of tops out there in the Market, requiring a lot of rework to install. Anyone have first hand experience with a confident supplier? thank you!

All was fine... Had the clock converted and now installed my battery dies in 24 hrs. Volt meter shows 14 when running and the battery takes a charge quickly. Could it possibly be drawing so much? If so I assume the clock has problems? Thoughts? Thanks

Went to the Start line yesterday as the drivers left Rhode Island. One guy from CA was there with a real nice GT 500 yellow from CA. Nice Guy! Good luck and go Shelby!!!!

For my 70 MACH 1. The "towers" where the front shock bolt into i need to replace as i have lovely chrome reproduction ones  Is there a proper part number for the factory tower caps? this is just the top piece that accepts the shock bots. Thanks

Attempted a return on a $20.00 item that was missing parts. Guess who had to pay the shipping both ways? $20.00 in shipping. I have nothing and im out $20.00. No more and beware!

Other than my trunk lid, all of my fiberglass needs work. A crack here, chip there. If i consider repairs, stripping and prep for paint, i can't imagine any one panel being a quick cheap fix. I see reproduction fiber glass out there. A. is it as bad as most metal reproduction panels? B. if not and its quality am i better off with repaired originals or perfect reproductions from a value perspective? Thanks for the feedback.

Before i go investigating every nut/bolt is the trunk area and the back end springs/exhaust generally noisy when hitting bumps? i dont see any obvious culprit....

Doing my stainless 68 hubcaps.. Haven't used the rouge in many years. Started with black and sisal wheel then went to green. The very fine scratches remain i cannot get a mirror finish. I wonder if the rouge lost moisture??? that a possibility? 

[Removal]

I thought I would provide details on the removal and installation of the stainless surround and the bottom frame when replacing your door glass. This would have been a big help to me so here you go! If you are going to polish the stainless leave it in the old window as the glass will provide the needed rigidity.

Removal
1.   Heat the stainless and frame with a heat gun get it good and hot and let it sit for about 10 mins to soften the glass setting tape
2.   Remove the two small Phillips screws CAREFULLY from the vertical run. You do not want to strip them
3.   Get a hardwood 1x1 block and begin tapping the stainless away from the glass. Do this universally around the glass. You do no want edge to lift faster or higher than the other as you can separate the corner joint. Also tap the vertical lower edge of the stainless to lift it up and off not just horizontally.
4.   Heat some more if not moving and be patient with the stainless removal process. Once off go to the lower frame. Same process but you can be more aggressive.

Installation
Order your glass setting tape. I used 1/16 x 1.5" tape. Worked perfect.
1.   Make sure the glass edges are clean.
2.   Start with stainless edge first
3.   Cut you tape to length. Fold in half.
4.   Snuggly fit tape (which is not sticky) over the glass edge. Hold in place with black electrical tape pieces. I used 3 one in the middle and another at each end. The tape is used perpendicular to the window setting tape not parallel.
5.   Carefully cut the corner so the tape lays flat nice 90 degree +/-. No bumps allowed.
6.   Wipe the window setting tape with kerosene or lamp oil to activate it and makes it lubricated
7.   Using a rubber mallet tape the stainless on. Start with the vertical side and get the corner secured first. I also used long wood clamps to slowly press the horizonal run in place.
8.   Ensure the stainless is firmly against the glass and then trim excess (both tapes) with a razor.
9.   Now prepare the horizontal lower frame for installation
10.   The left side of the frame will slide up the stainless channel. Therefore, I sanded the left leading edge to remove rust or any debris and lubricated it with the kerosene.
11.   Cut your setting tape length and fold in half as described above. Again firmly drape over the glass and hold in pace with black electrical tape. 3 vertical pieces as above.
12.   Now begin to slide the frame up the stainless channel and look to align the frame with the screw holes.
13.   As you get close to alignment wipe the setting tape with kerosene.
14.   Put a punch through the stainless screw holes and into the frame screw holes.
15.   Tape frame onto glass and set firmly. Check the punch it should be perfectly aligned to accept the screws. If not you have more tapping to do.
16.   Install screws and using your mallet tap all edges until you are certain the frame and stainless have bottomed out on the glass.
17.   Using razor blade remove the electrical tape strips. You won't have any setting tape excess for the frame as the 1.5" fits perfectly.
18.    Done   

About to put my 4 speed back in... I've become aware of the need to align to the bellhousing/tranny to the crank. Is this really necessary? i cant believe they did that level of precision at the factory.. thoughts?

i removed the bolts to the cover and two of them are much longer than the others. Is there a specific spot for them? perhaps at one end?

Kinda looks like I can leave the exhaust alone and slide back then forward.. anyone confirm? Thanks

Anyone have a tried and true sanding/polishing process or a kit you bought that you liked? Nothing deep but needs repair. Lots of the web content but no good DIY solutions such as pad types etc. Thanks!!