Not my car; it's coming up for auction at Mecum soon. I was considering having an inspection done, does anyone know anything about this car? What are the big issues you can see in the pictures?
https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0119-357860/1968-shelby-gt350-fastback/
Car looks very nice. I don't see any spot welding on top of inner fender aprons.
But people used to smooth those out once upon a time.
Someone is using fake 1968 hubcaps! >:(
My personal favorites are the fuel line clamps and the rivets that holds the tail light panel on but hey, Carroll signed the dashboard so I guess I can overlook a few owner personalized items.
Quote from: Bigfoot on December 14, 2018, 05:41:08 PM
Car looks very nice. I don't see any spot welding on top of inner fender aprons.
But people used to smooth those out once upon a time.
Probably because they were replaced. ;)
Not even sure where to start with that one. Guess it would fall into the 'nice driver' category. ??? ???
Probably
What's the spot welding thing about? Just curious
During assembly the front and rear aprons overlap onto the shock towers. On the flat horizontal area where the fenders bolt on you can see distinct spot welds.
These overlap areas are very prone to rust.
Lazy shops will hack out the rot and fill the hole with bondo or fiberglass.
Some will sandblast the area to remove the rot and fill with bondo or fiberglass
some will tack or weld in a single piece of metal and fill either side with bondo
proper repair requires cutting out the area and spot welding new metal in
It's one of the easiest areas to spot if a car has corrosion.......and more importantly the level of repair
The most ingenious repair I've seen as I live in a rust belt and most cars here have corrosion in that area was:
sandblasting out the corrosion being sure to get out the black corrosion ensuring it doesn't come back, tacking in a piece of metal in the center of the hole where two layers of metal once was and filling the area with bondo.......then as the bondo was setting.....take and HB pencil and press the eraser into the bondo that is still setting up which leaves a depression the same size as an original spot weld
bring a magnet or paint thickness guage to check the thickness of the paint in this area. Get on your knees and look above the front tires at the same area with a bright flashlight from below......rarely is the area fixed properly from the underside
Quote from: prototypefan on December 15, 2018, 09:19:52 AM
During assembly the front and rear aprons overlap onto the shock towers. On the flat horizontal area where the fenders bolt on you can see distinct spot welds.
These overlap areas are very prone to rust.
Lazy shops will hack out the rot and fill the hole with bondo or fiberglass.
Some will sandblast the area to remove the rot and fill with bondo or fiberglass
some will tack or weld in a single piece of metal and fill either side with bondo
proper repair requires cutting out the area and spot welding new metal in
It's one of the easiest areas to spot if a car has corrosion.......and more importantly the level of repair
The most ingenious repair I've seen as I live in a rust belt and most cars here have corrosion in that area was:
sandblasting out the corrosion being sure to get out the black corrosion ensuring it doesn't come back, tacking in a piece of metal in the center of the hole where two layers of metal once was and filling the area with bondo.......then as the bondo was setting.....take and HB pencil and press the eraser into the bondo that is still setting up which leaves a depression the same size as an original spot weld
bring a magnet or paint thickness guage to check the thickness of the paint in this area. Get on your knees and look above the front tires at the same area with a bright flashlight from below......rarely is the area fixed properly from the underside
Wow. That is an amazing description on what to look for in this area. I never knew any of this and I've once again learned something about my 68 GT500. I'm gonna head to the garage this weekend and check out this area on my car.
QSS
Quote from: Coralsnake on December 14, 2018, 08:16:11 PM
Someone is using fake 1968 hubcaps! >:(
When you say "fake" can you elaborate "why" they are fake. I'm not great at knowing the differences between an original hubcap and the hubcaps on this car and I'm curious about the differences.
QSS
Center emblems are concave not covex and the ring around them is too large and appears to be chrome. I'm not sure but are these the Chevy version?
Chris is very good. Original Shelby hubcaps are unique to 1968 Shelbys, these hubcaps were sourced from some other application.
Quote from: prototypefan on December 15, 2018, 09:19:52 AM
The most ingenious repair I've seen as I live in a rust belt and most cars here have corrosion in that area was:
sandblasting out the corrosion being sure to get out the black corrosion ensuring it doesn't come back, tacking in a piece of metal in the center of the hole where two layers of metal once was and filling the area with bondo.......then as the bondo was setting.....take and HB pencil and press the eraser into the bondo that is still setting up which leaves a depression the same size as an original spot weld
Another option is to repair the metal, leaving both sides smooth and use an actual spot welder to replicate the original welds.
^^
Right
But some people would just leave smooth which in theory should not raise eyebrows except for a concours situation.
And like Charley said,...can be added later.
Quote from: Coralsnake on December 14, 2018, 08:16:11 PM
Someone is using fake 1968 hubcaps! >:(
. Yeah,but you didn't read the description....Those are SHELBY CRAGAR wheels....o.k..... ;D ::)
Quote from: CharlesTurner on December 15, 2018, 12:10:19 AM
Not even sure where to start with that one. Guess it would fall into the 'nice driver' category. ??? ???
Assuming the car is solid other than the obvious concours issues, bought right and within the buyers budget it would be a fun driver.
95% of the local car show folks wouldn't know or care about the concours details.
Here in lies the issue... no one else can tell you how much change you will tolerate. Everyone has a different level of whats okay. Does sheet metal repair bother you? If it does, how much is acceptable?
How much have you investigated the history of this car?
No disrespect, but Im not sure why whats correct or not, always seems to fall back to a discussion of concours/ not concours?
The lack of spot welds is not a "concours" concern to me. Its a discussion of body integrity. Like was this a repair? And if yes, how much was repaired?
I don't want a completely correct car, I am not a collector. I plan to drive and wrench on the car as a hobby.. I enjoy making incorrect cars more correct. If it appeasers to be a solid foundation and a good price I'm interested. Correct drive train is great but not a deal breaker if priced correctly... I prefer correct sheet metal. Thanks for all the input it's been very helpful.
When wired correctly, will the fog lights light without the headlights on? How about when the high beams are lit?
I am obviously not helping
Don't assume anything about this car. Definitely have it inspected by someone who know what they are looking for and don't over pay just because it's part of the 'RPM collection"
It seems obvious someone was going for the concours look otherwise why the wheel covers and bias tires.
There is plenty wrong with this car. Shouldn't be hard to spot for and experienced inspector.
Probably why its at auction ::)
Chris
Quote from: prototypefan on December 15, 2018, 09:19:52 AM
During assembly the front and rear aprons overlap onto the shock towers. On the flat horizontal area where the fenders bolt on you can see distinct spot welds.
These overlap areas are very prone to rust.
Lazy shops will hack out the rot and fill the hole with bondo or fiberglass.
Some will sandblast the area to remove the rot and fill with bondo or fiberglass
some will tack or weld in a single piece of metal and fill either side with bondo
proper repair requires cutting out the area and spot welding new metal in
It's one of the easiest areas to spot if a car has corrosion.......and more importantly the level of repair
The most ingenious repair I've seen as I live in a rust belt and most cars here have corrosion in that area was:
sandblasting out the corrosion being sure to get out the black corrosion ensuring it doesn't come back, tacking in a piece of metal in the center of the hole where two layers of metal once was and filling the area with bondo.......then as the bondo was setting.....take and HB pencil and press the eraser into the bondo that is still setting up which leaves a depression the same size as an original spot weld
bring a magnet or paint thickness guage to check the thickness of the paint in this area. Get on your knees and look above the front tires at the same area with a bright flashlight from below......rarely is the area fixed properly from the underside
Check out these spot weld beauties on my car. Both the drivers and passenger inner fenders have the same spot welds. I had a look under the drivers and passenger fenders and could see the spot welds from the underside as well.
QSS
Those are really nice clean ones... most I've seen are not so clean and crisp. But as noted, they are easily replicated in a restoration and it is a very common area of rust on most every mustang . You lucky :)
That blue 68 gt 350 mecum car has a muffler problem looks like someone hit it with a floor jack or somethin. My second shelby was a 68 gt 350 4-speed fastback that i drove most of the time back in early 80s even took it deer huntin when nothing else would start. It was the best to drive handled well no overheating & easy to work on then i sold it to buy a 70 convertible.
rough crowd, what will she bring