Many of us expend great efforts to make the underside of our 1965/66/67 Shelby's "Day One" correct with red primer and drips, body color overspray and blackout paint. However, we often gloss over (pun intended) having truly accurate appearing paint on the hood, the LeMans stripes, the side stripes (1965), the scoops (1966 & 67) & the trunklid (1967).
Those of us who were around in the early days remember the original finish on the 1965/67 SAI installed parts looked substantially different from the paint on the main body panels which were glossy, baked enamel FoMoCo paint w/ orange peel.
The reason for the difference is: SAI's paint shop sprayed acrylic lacquer on their "Day One" fiberglass parts and LeMans stripes.
This "Day One" paint package will allow you to accurately duplicate SAI's acrylic lacquer paint process.
Package consists of: 1 gallon of Wimbledon White Code M lacquer and 1 gallon of Guardsman Blue Code F lacquer. Enough paint to do several Shelby hoods, stripes, etc.
This paint is the real deal, mixed years ago with accurate color formulas and base toners.
Package price is $675, plus UPS shipping to continental USA locations. Very limited quantities.
Just an observation. Obviously with the original Ford baked enamel, acrylic lacquer sprayed over same did not lift the stock Ford paint. I would think any acrylic enamel that is not baked or allowed to cure for months/years would lift if sprayed over with a lacquer based product. Maybe acrylic enamel with a urethane hardener might survive better. I am not a painter but maybe someone who is can pipe in?
Kram350: Your comment is appreciated.
I suspect most Shelby restorers are spraying the entire car with catalyzed urethane paint (single stage or basecoat/clearcoat) today. If done properly, the finish of single stage urethane can closely match the finish of FoMoCo's baked enamel.
As far as your concern about spraying acrylic lacquer LeMans stripes over urethane: There shouldn't be a problem, providing the shop lightly wet sands the urethane and uses a fast to medium lacquer solvent. If in doubt, a coat of sealer/primer after sanding may also be helpful. Hope this helps...