After decades hidden in a closet, I pulled my Hertz's original engine out. A friend pushed me to buy an engine stand and we went to Harbor Freight and I bought a Pittsburgh 1,000 pound stand for $100.00. We got it on the stand and I went looking through a bucket of bolts and he identified the original head bolts. He said the rocker nuts were not correct because there was an allen key screw in each of them that prevents the nuts from backing off once the lash (I believe it is called) is corrected. So we started adding things. The Cobra intake was restored by Jim Cowles of Shelby Parts and Restoration. Added the harmonic balancer. He also identified a special thick washer that is hipo specific for the balancer. Now it sits in my office space further nudging me to send the block out to do a build. Well, it's a start anyway.
Well done, identify all the parts you can - date codes, numbers, stampings, etc.
Congrats!! Progress being made.
Joe
Thanks, gentlemen. I wrote down some numbers. Did not know there was a casting number and also a separate number for the assembly date on this engine. And the heads have numbers and the timing cover. Not sure if these are proprietary numbers like the Ford vin (which I have committed to memory). I can list the casting and assembly date numbers along with the K code heads if it is safe to do so. I don't see the harm in it but opinions please.
Quote from: deathsled on March 02, 2026, 08:39:51 PMThanks, gentlemen. I wrote down some numbers. Did not know there was a casting number and also a separate number for the assembly date on this engine. And the heads have numbers and the timing cover. Not sure if these are proprietary numbers like the Ford vin (which I have committed to memory). I can list the casting and assembly date numbers along with the K code heads if it is safe to do so. I don't see the harm in it but opinions please.
Don't worry about posting the engineering numbers from the parts. It is not an issue like the VIN.
Engine asting date: 6A5
C5AE8015E
Assembly date: 6A12D
Heads: 19 5L5 passenger side
19 5L4 driver's side
Harmonic balancer: K5
Timing cover: C50E6059A2
Casting date: 65
SLED... the first step is usually the hardest. Good to see some forward momentum!
Totally.. your on the way my friend
Richard, if you decide to use the "Poly Locks" for the valve adjustment Summit has a set of valve cover gaskets from a company called TransDapt, they are 5/16 thick and allow use of the original valve cover with the metal shield/baffles still installed
Part Number: TRD-9646
deathsled,
Such fun, almost wish I was doing it all again. Almost.
I went through what you are about two and a half years or so ago. The original block came with my car but was very rusty. I've posted most of the engine rebuild and subsequent installation (more to come) on my website (S-TechEnt.com/Shelby_Web_Pages//66_GT350H/GT350H.htm and click on Engine Rebuild). Be sure to look for the other stamped date on the oil pan rail above the block engineering number. This is thought to be the date the block was machined. Let us know what you find. Best of luck with the build.
I always enjoy these adventures as they unfold, are you going back to the factory specifications?
Quote from: Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas on March 03, 2026, 01:17:24 PMRichard, if you decide to use the "Poly Locks" for the valve adjustment Summit has a set of valve cover gaskets from a company called TransDapt, they are 5/16 thick and allow use of the original valve cover with the metal shield/baffles still installed
Part Number: TRD-9646
Thanks Steve. I see no reason not to keep them. The block is missing two so I will find a suitable replacement and use the gaskets. Thank you very much for the part number.
It looks like the oil pan rail stamping is
6A12B with a couple of cross engravings
Quote from: JohnSlack on March 04, 2026, 03:55:20 PMI always enjoy these adventures as they unfold, are you going back to the factory specifications?
That makes the most sense. Except for the Poly Locks as they are called. I will be hunting for a Cobra T pan I suppose. And a FoMoCo dual point distributor specific for a 66 HiPo.
Quote from: deathsled on March 04, 2026, 09:57:05 PMIt looks like the oil pan rail stamping is
6A12B with a couple of cross engravings
Interesting, my block also had the same date for both stampings (5L3), the letter at the end is supposed to be the machinest/assembler's initial. I requested the those stampings not be removed during the machining process. And they were left untouched. The business owner is a former '66 GT350 owner...
Rotated and enhanced for you.
Roy
Thanks Roy.
There should also be the crank balancer washer and the thin gears and chain in the pile. The block was standard bore. The original rocker nuts were worn out and kept backing off so I added the poly locks. If you look at the baffles in the open letter Buddy Bar valve covers you'll see where they were kissing them. I had only looked at the Ford VIN stamp which by the way is 6R09K...... OK I wont tell. Casting and date stamps weren't a thing at the time. When I got the car it had a steel pan. I found an original T pan that had a patch where a rod had ventilated it but never put it on.
PS - you need to add some gold stripes the the red engine stand.
Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on March 06, 2026, 12:35:19 PMThere should also be the crank balancer washer and the thin gears and chain in the pile. The block was standard bore. The original rocker nuts were worn out and kept backing off so I added the poly locks. If you look at the baffles in the open letter Buddy Bar valve covers you'll see where they were kissing them. I had only looked at the Ford VIN stamp which by the way is 6R09K...... OK I wont tell. Casting and date stamps weren't a thing at the time. When I got the car it had a steel pan. I found an original T pan that had a patch where a rod had ventilated it but never put it on.
PS - you need to add some gold stripes the the red engine stand.
I will need to check for the gears and chain. I lost the camshaft in a move. I cannot account for where it went. My father gave me a hard time about it and would periodically ask me if I found the camshaft. Is the original camshaft so important to the engine. The lobes wear out I thought. Anyway, it's MIA. I like the polylock feature and will keep it. I have the Ford VIN committed to memory. I was grilled about my Ford VIN and he chided me for not knowing it stat. And yes, gold stripes on the engine stand would be a good addition. I will see what I can find. Buying your car became an integral part of my life and never regretted it one bit. The Hertz is literally the car that survived three marriages.
Quote from: deathsled on March 06, 2026, 03:57:56 PMQuote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on March 06, 2026, 12:35:19 PMThere should also be the crank balancer washer and the thin gears and chain in the pile. The block was standard bore. The original rocker nuts were worn out and kept backing off so I added the poly locks. If you look at the baffles in the open letter Buddy Bar valve covers you'll see where they were kissing them. I had only looked at the Ford VIN stamp which by the way is 6R09K...... OK I wont tell. Casting and date stamps weren't a thing at the time. When I got the car it had a steel pan. I found an original T pan that had a patch where a rod had ventilated it but never put it on.
PS - you need to add some gold stripes the the red engine stand.
I will need to check for the gears and chain. I lost the camshaft in a move. I cannot account for where it went. My father gave me a hard time about it and would periodically ask me if I found the camshaft. Is the original camshaft so important to the engine. The lobes wear out I thought. Anyway, it's MIA. I like the polylock feature and will keep it. I have the Ford VIN committed to memory. I was grilled about my Ford VIN and he chided me for not knowing it stat. And yes, gold stripes on the engine stand would be a good addition. I will see what I can find. Buying your car became an integral part of my life and never regretted it one bit. The Hertz is literally the car that survived three marriages.
I have never trusted a used cam or lifters. The same with oil pump.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on March 06, 2026, 04:47:17 PMI have never trusted a used cam or lifters. The same with oil pump.
+1 - I put rings and bearings in it along with a new high volume oil pump. The cam was a fresh HiPo regrind and new lifters. I used the old HiPo cam and lifters in a 65 Fastback I had built along with a $25 Cobra intake I picked up at the Pomona swap meet.