Hey folks ..... looks like I'm up against the chore of removing the master cylinder and brake booster on my 67 Gt-500. Holy smokes there is like zero room in there to work at first glance. Any tips anyone can share that can help as my sanity gets tested? I'm assuming the valve cover needs to be removed at the very least. Thanks !!
It might come out past the valve cover, try that first.
1) place some towels, absorber shop rags under the M/C
2) disconnect the two brake lines, they will drip. If you are lucky, you might be able to squeeze a
block-off in each port. (sometimes)
3) disconnect the vacuum hose, or, maybe pop out the check valve on the booster.
4) inside near the steering column, remove the nuts that hold the booster in.
5) on the firewall, remove the one bolt on the booster bracket.
6) lift and juggle the assembly out.
If you have to remove the valve cover, you might also have to remove the export brace,
Thanks that helps. So leave the M/C in place and remove that and the booster in one-piece?
I replaced my master cylinder last year on my 67 GT500. I had to remove the export brace and valve cover but was able to replace the master cylinder without messing with the booster. It is tight at the shock tower.
Just a few other steps. If you haven't already..disconnect the battery. From under the dash disconnect the brake light switch plug-pull out the hairpin clip and remove the switch. Slide the pushrod and nylon washers and bushing off the pedal pivot pin. For the under hood, I would remove the master cylinder and the export brace as well as the valve cover so nothing will get scratched especially the nice new restored booster when you reinstall. My favorite go to is an electric 3/8" impact. This really is not as bad once you get going with the proper tools. ALSO Strongly recommend Booster Dewey(now Mark) in Wash.
Excellent work and people to deal with. It will come apart without all this but....going together is so
Much easier with everything removed. Hope you work it out.
R.R.
After you do all of the work to get it removed and rebuilt but before you re-install your booster you may want to make it look as good as possible. That may mean doing a little body work to cover rust pits etc. If you have one of the service replacement boosters that have the FOMOCO in the oval metal stamped into the case this is the time to fill that in to make it disappear. Factory units were plain or blank and did not have that stamping.That is harder to do once installed. FYI the booster and the master were painted as a unit so everything you see is black. The exception is the brake line ports . They had plugs installed prior to painting so after painting when the plug is pulled out it will be bare metal circles(bare metal look) around the ports. The small fitting had a plug about the size of a dime and the larger fitting port is a little smaller then a Nickel. That is if you would like to try and make it look original.
I was able to do mine by taking out the export brace and the master cylinder. Then the booster came out without removing the valve cover