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Deals and Appeals => Appeals => Topic started by: azdriver on November 24, 2025, 05:30:46 PM

Title: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: azdriver on November 24, 2025, 05:30:46 PM
Seems like my local place has gone away. Any suggestions for rebuilders would be appreciated...

Pat
Title: Re: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: Bob Gaines on November 24, 2025, 07:06:51 PM
Quote from: azdriver on November 24, 2025, 05:30:46 PMSeems like my local place has gone away. Any suggestions for rebuilders would be appreciated...

Pat
Mine too. Check some of the truck clutch rebuilders.
Title: Re: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: Craner on November 24, 2025, 07:08:42 PM
HR Clutch. (Near Philly)
Very pleased with their work.

They rebuilt my original 428CJ Clutch and Pressure Plate. (GT500KR)

https://www.hrclutch.com


Fran
Title: Re: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: azdriver on November 24, 2025, 07:11:20 PM
So I have been told my local place can still do them but they send them out to Chicago. I guess I will go that route. Thanks for the replies...

Pat
Title: Re: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: pbf777 on November 24, 2025, 07:26:58 PM
      Most all of the "clutch rebuilders" are gone; but it isn't that difficult if you just have a "good" machine shop available.

      Assuming that you do have a "Long-Style" clutch, and it's not in a really bad state of condition, basically, for a "standard" rebuild as most often having been practiced by the shops in the past:

      Disassemble the unit via the three bolts located on the hat inline with the fork-fingers, loosening slowly and equally, the spring pressures "might" be released before you run out of threads, BUT! I prefer (and probably wiser & safer!  ;) ) to utilize the hydraulic press (but could be accomplished with a couple of pieces of metal and a long threaded bolt or a section of all-thread acting as a clamp) and hold the hat down until all of the bolts are out and then release the hydraulic pressure (or start unscrewing your contraption) this allowing the springs to push the hat apart from the friction plate.

      Now just gather-up the parts; inspect the pieces and note any shims that might be under the fork-finger stands and the positioning of everything (there's not that much there!  ::) ), including indexing.  Take the pressure plate friction ring to a ("general/industrial") machine shop that might have a magnetic plate for mounting on a surface grinder (and with "rotary table would be even better!) and have them dial-indicate the face level and cut a minimum off to "dress' the surface.  Sometimes (and actually best  ;) ) an "automotive type" machine shop may have the ability to mount this in their "flywheel grinder" and will also generally be more affordable in costing.  But if you find your having to walk them through the process then your probably at the wrong place! 

      Take the springs to an automotive machine shop and have them run each of them across their valve-spring tester, this looking for any that might really be bad; if any show to be significantly "out of range" compared to the others, then you have a problem, as not "any" spring will do and all should be replaced as a set.  And then see if they might happen to have some valve spring shims (say... .060") that will fit under the spring and within any machined recess or boss that there might be on the back-side of the pressure plate ring, this to offset loss pressure due to fatigue, for the removed sum on the face of the ring, and just to "add-in" some for good measure.

      The fork-fingers might have some excessive wear on the tips, that might need to be "dressed", this where they come into contact with the release-bearing, if not too excessive, and with some technique, just grind them down "some', in a radius fashion, but 'do' try and make them somewhat equal. 

      Now, as stated in the manual, "assemble in the reverse of the disassembly process."  ::)  When done do look and establish that the three fork-fingers are "somewhat" equal in height, as bolted to the flywheel with the friction disc in place.   ;D

      If you find that the hat is cracked somewhere, or any "broken stuff" or stuff that just looks overly "worn out", then it's just time to toss-it!  :'(

      Scott.

     
Title: Re: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: Krelboyne on November 24, 2025, 07:35:55 PM
27 years ago I used Valley Clutch Company in Irwindale Ca. They did the original clutch and pressure plate for my R code 1969 XR7.

No web site, I think that they are still in business according to Google.

Valley Clutch
5396 3rd Ave.
Irwindale, Ca. 91706
626-962-8787
Title: Re: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: 98SVT - was 06GT on November 24, 2025, 08:28:49 PM
Quote from: Krelboyne on November 24, 2025, 07:35:55 PM27 years ago I used Valley Clutch Company in Irwindale Ca. They did the original clutch and pressure plate for my R code 1969 XR7.

No web site, I think that they are still in business according to Google.
Gone. I think it's even a different building than when I used them 20 years ago.
Title: Re: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: FL SAAC on November 24, 2025, 08:59:36 PM
We have several "rebuilder" I  our area.

When the time came to replace our clutch, pressure plate and t.o. bearing we purchased a brand new center force II kit.

Cant beat brand spanking new.

 We also chose not to go with the old three finger type long style set up.

Again we chose Center Force, but Mccloud, RAM etc all are good and have new age technology

New will always be New

Best of luck on your endeavors
Title: Re: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: pbf777 on November 25, 2025, 12:33:07 PM
    The idea of rebuilding the old pressure plate is a more than reasonable avenue to follow; that is, if you can find a "reasonable' rebuilder, and if not, might be willing to assert one's self into the endeavor; this as I attempted to present in my previous post, it really isn't that complicated.

    The only real pitfall might be any needed "parts".  As long as you don't have to find replacement parts, just a reworking of the old stuff and you'll be O.K..  In the "old-days", parts weren't a problem, I even still have the old catalogs from that industry listing all of the different applications and parts & pieces, and as often practiced in the automotive community, much being shared from one to another in the effort to reduce the "cost per unit" scenario, and note that clutches have always pretty much been a "buy-out product" for the automobile manufacturers; but today, I just don't know where to buy the O.E.M. replacement pieces?

    On the subject of a replacement clutch being of the "diaphragm" type vs. the original "long-style" in these cars has been discussed previously on this forum, and I would suggest that before anyone followed down that path that they familiarize themselves with the expected experience.

    Note that commenting is often intended as not only in aid to the O.P.'s inquire at this point in time, but also to provide to others whom may be "in the same boat" so to speak, this both today, and even perhaps, should any of this be available for review in future.  :)

    Scott.
Title: Re: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: camp upshur on November 25, 2025, 05:38:14 PM
I am so impressed to see mention of Valley Clutch on this Forum!
I had the distinct pleasure of knowing both Frank and Pat going back to the Quonset Hut days on Arrow.
Those men live on to this day with the racers of the original Irwindale. Absolute classics! Esp Pat's legendary 'dead squirrel' toupé. Frank passed early and Pat closed up the new shop perhaps 20(?) yrs ago. But boy do they live on in bench-racing circles in these parts.
One of my cars (at 500hp) still has a 'gold' clutch, with numerous disc changes/surfacing and has never slipped. My GT-350 ran a solid roller B302 until recently, again w one of Pat's gold clutches, same, nary a problem and I'm thinking of putting that mid-80's long plate behind the recently stock spec'd original 306hp just out of a wierd 'nostalgic loyalty' (?). I can't come up w a reason why-not-to. Crazy.
Title: Re: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: shelbydoug on November 25, 2025, 07:02:42 PM
I have a Ford rebuilt PP in my 67 GT500.
They were common at one point.

I would not be shocked if Ford Rebuilders still do them or could.
Title: Re: Pressure plate rebuild.
Post by: Krelboyne on November 25, 2025, 08:38:20 PM
Quote from: camp upshur on November 25, 2025, 05:38:14 PMI am so impressed to see mention of Valley Clutch on this Forum!
I had the distinct pleasure of knowing both Frank and Pat going back to the Quonset Hut days on Arrow.
Those men live on to this day with the racers of the original Irwindale. Absolute classics! Esp Pat's legendary 'dead squirrel' toupé. Frank passed early and Pat closed up the new shop perhaps 20(?) yrs ago. But boy do they live on in bench-racing circles in these parts.
One of my cars (at 500hp) still has a 'gold' clutch, with numerous disc changes/surfacing and has never slipped. My GT-350 ran a solid roller B302 until recently, again w one of Pat's gold clutches, same, nary a problem and I'm thinking of putting that mid-80's long plate behind the recently stock spec'd original 306hp just out of a wierd 'nostalgic loyalty' (?). I can't come up w a reason why-not-to. Crazy.


I think it was Pat Esposito that helped me. I was carrying my CJ clutch and pressure plate, before I got to the counter he correctly guessed "428 Cobra Jet?" He explained that there were only a couple of industrial clutches that would stump him.
The Gold Clutch, is that with two different linings? One to grab the flywheel, and a slightly looser one to grab the pressure plate? That is what he recommended for my mostly stock application. Told me to come back in 90 minutes and they would be done.
I remember the toupee and constant cigarette he had going.
There will never be another generation of Men quite like his generation. He must have been a Veteran.