Does anyone have any pictures of how far the outer rear wheel well sealer/ coating went out to the wheel well lip? I researched the "Dearborn undercarriage article" and it shows a very small patch at the top center.
Build date June 11, 69
Pete
The sealer was there to cover the two halves of the wheel well. It varied from a thin strip to full coverage depending on who sprayed it
Quote from: Coralsnake on June 01, 2025, 10:42:53 AMThe sealer was there to cover the two halves of the wheel well. It varied from a thin strip to full coverage depending on who sprayed it
+1 .Typically on the heavy.
First consider how the sound deadener was applied and other considerations that the workers/managers would have had concerns with. It was applied by a worker in a pit so the car/wheel wells were above and fully accessible. They would not have wanted to have any of the sound deadener escape from inside the cars. Just made a mess on other things that meant clean up so typically we find that at the top outer edge you can find a gap from the out most edge of the wheel lip and a lighter (compared to the center and back of the wheel well) application along the edge - likely a single pass of the wand. These edges got heavier (likely because the wand was closer to the surface) nearer and at the bottom of the passing of the wand at the front and rear sections along the lip.
At the top of the outer edge the gap between the lip and the soft edge of the sound deadener could be 4 inches or so
You will typically find a greater amount of overspray outside of the wheel well surface at the rear, suggesting to me that this is where the worker ended his pass with the wand. Along the top, sides and back of the wheel well the application of the sound deadener was heavy as mentioned to the point of the build up from multiple and easier access the product surface would sag and droop. Remember that they did not mask off the area so at the end of every pass along the inner or back of the wheel well up and on to surfaces such as the floor and frame rails. Remember that the pinch weld would block the application of the spray in certain areas so the finished product would reflect this.
It should also be mentioned for those that have not read the article that this step/application on the rear wheel wells was done before exterior paint was applied so much of these surfaces would be coated nicely in some areas with exterior paint
Some pictures to illustrate just a few examples from late production at Dearborn in 69
Picture showing the gap mentioned I've often found at the top outer edge
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-010625125117-210611943.jpeg)
Group of pictures from a single late built car. In this example the sprayer stopped just short of the lower edge at the rear but didn't at the lower rear and leading lower edge of the wheel well
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-010625125118-21062830.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-010625125111-21060456.jpeg)
If you notice in this picture there is a gap between the outer edge of the inner wheel well and the start/edge of the sound deadener on this particular example
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-010625125106-21058102.jpeg)
Couple of examples of some of the overspray outside of the wheel well itself during the application process
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-010625125111-210591198.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-010625125105-210572210.jpeg)
Close up of a fairly light application of sound deadener
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/12/6-061019192704.jpeg)
Sorry for being so wordy ::)
Thanks for the pictures Jeff.
Pete
1) Trunk sealer around rear bumper brackets in trunk is it smoother or rough texture?
2) Also around inner wheel wells and gas tank area?
Phil Quinn sent me pictures of his vehicle (built one week prior to mine) rougher in both areas
Also have pictures of one built 2 weeks after and are different? Don't know how original that car was?
June built 1969
Pete
Quote from: cob428 on June 19, 2025, 09:11:14 AM1) Trunk sealer around rear bumper brackets in trunk is it smoother or rough texture?
Around the rear bumper brackets to the trunk floors the material was sprayed and left a "texture" or look with ripples and "waves" from the thick product and high air pressure. Spray pattern was normally fairly tight. Now at the same time the taillight panel to rear trunk panel was filled with caulking and smoothed with a wet rag.
Quote from: cob428 on June 19, 2025, 09:11:14 AM2) Also around inner wheel wells and gas tank area?
The inner wheel house to trunk floors and the forward application to both trunk floor to the floor panel over the rearend, including the upper side trap door surrounds on the side if the car is a sportroof, were also sealed at the same time (prior to body color application over it) with the same applicator, product and and method as discussed above. Pattern could be very tight, maybe four inches or so, to eight to ten inches. Guess it depended on how much the worker bent over, reached in or held the tip away from the surface.
Will try and post some supporting pictures from some June built Dearborn examples
As a reminder to others reading this post now or later. Don't forget the sound deadener applied to the inside surface of the quarter panels. This was applied before the quarter panels were welded to the body and the spray pattern connects a fairly small visible patch in the trunk area and connects to a smaller application to a small patch visible from inside the interior on the sides behind the support brackets.
So that I can provide the best support what bodystyle?
Sorry GT500 FB
Pete
Quote from: cob428 on June 19, 2025, 04:20:17 PMSorry GT500 FB
Thanks
As mentioned the sealant and sound deadener was applied before body color. the produce remained flexible for a long time so the top surface, exterior paint, often wore away or chipped off over time. In addition owners thinking it was applied over or just wanting to repair the look and surface texture often over coated these areas with rattle can undercoating. If you look closely in about every one of the following pictures where it appears black you can also find smaller areas where the body paint over the product is visible supporting what I shared above.
All from late built cars at Dearborn. Have many more but hopefully this will do the job.
So taillight panel to rear cross member
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-190625204155-211361230.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-190625204154-21135950.jpeg)
Bumper brackets to trunk floor. The seam between the trunk floor and the rear cross member seam was also sprayed with the sealant.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-190625204042-211231201.jpeg)
Wheel wells and rear interior bulk head, trap door surrounds, to trunk floor and trunk floor to floor panel over rear end seam examples. As mentioned before the pattern and width of the spray can vary a faair amount.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-190625204121-211321213.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-190625204120-211311927.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-190625204109-211301574.jpeg)
Finally, while we are in the area sealant applied around the spare tire hold down bracket. In the picture you can see the pattern (surface rust) where the sealant was sprayed but was chipped or fell off over the years.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-190625204051-21125149.jpeg)
Closing for now with a picture of the quarter panel sound deadener application. Did not reach to the ends of edges of the panel which would have gotten in the way when it came time to attach the panel to the body. Looks like a single or a down and up pass of the application wand
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-190625204046-211241913.jpeg)
So in the above pictures the sealer goes up the inside wheel well.
In Phil's pic it does not, so am I to "assume" there really is no set pattern?
Sorry to be so inquisitive I just want to make sure.
Pete
Absolutely every car was different, you can only look at generalities
Certain areas were supposed to be covered
Different people sprayed the sealers
Quote from: Coralsnake on June 21, 2025, 08:58:30 AMAbsolutely every car was different, you can only look at generalities
Certain areas were supposed to be covered
Different people sprayed the sealers
+1 Plus sometimes workers just made a mistake or screwed up and missed an area. If not a mistake often we will find patterns that look to fall into a small set of groups likely produced by one of the three or so workers typically assigned to that task.
If the inspector assigned to watch over the process didn't catch it then it passed through possibly to be caught or ignored if found later depending on how important an inspector determined it was. cob428 the picture you posted IMO is not typical. Just asking but was that picture from a car built around the same month of so of your car.
If you don't have any pictures of how your car was done originally then you are left to make the best choice based on examples from the same time period and plant so that you reflect the typical practices of that time and plant IMO
Good luck with your choices since you and the car have to live with them :)
Phil Quinns Gt 500 built 9 days (June 2nd) prior to mine.
Pete
Quote from: cob428 on June 22, 2025, 08:19:57 AMPhil Quinns Gt 500 built 9 days (June 2nd) prior to mine.
Pete
Thanks. Guess that might be an option depends on your choice between typical practices and what could have taken place. Did you happen to have a picture of the other side to compare and see if the DS was just an opps! or if the worker just was doing that on his shift that day.
Just discussing and exploring if you choose to travel down the path :)
Jeff here is a picture of the passenger side it appears to be the same as drivers. I will go with the options.you have sent me.
Thanks for all your input.
Pete
Ok How about some critique,l know , l know, dolly marks are next.
There should be stripe material folded over through side marker hole as triangle shaped tabs.
Got it, have a couple extra white stripes so,shouldn't be an issue.
Pete
Quote from: cob428 on June 27, 2025, 04:42:30 PMOk How about some critique,l know , l know, dolly marks are next.
Would start off sharing that we often see the wheel well to trunk floors with what appears to be a two step sealant application. The first a very close or tight pattern just along that lower seam with tight narrow "waves" in the product. Then a much wider spray pattern in an application that included the second pass the other seams we see in the pictures. Some times the top coat is thicker so it hides the earlier tight/narrow pattern from view.
Picture three - Not going to seal around the Mustang/spare tie mounting bracket? Its would also hide the sealant you brushed around the bracket also that doesn't look original. This area is not always sprayed for some reason but it would hide that other sealant you applied
On the bottom picture showing the rear bumper support bracket the spray would have continued in to the seam between the floor and the rear lower panel to cover right to below where the gas tank would mount and seal that seem.
Over all looks like a light application of the product compared to some but has the texture that should get the application little notice once painted. For others considering this thing about how it would have been sprayed and what an application like that results in for the final look. If using a brush practice trying to apply in waves so that you get build up by tilting the brush as you lift and remove it front the surface working from where the spray application would have began to its end
And since this all gets covered with body color you might (since your sort of faking this) consider spraying the area at the dolly tie downs with a bare metal, like stainless steel, spray paint then place something over that has the right diameter and that sticks up maybe a 1/8 to 1'4 inch that will stay in place when you respray the body color. In this way you will get a softer paint edge and not a sharp one that someone would faking the dolly mark using simple masking tape or something similar.
Just a thoughts and some feedback. NOT picking on you or your work. Hope this helps you and others as they look forward to the process.
Edited for clarity and additional observations
Boss
Quote from: J_Speegle on June 27, 2025, 05:45:29 PMQuote from: cob428 on June 27, 2025, 04:42:30 PMOk How about some critique,l know , l know, dolly marks are next.
Would start off sharing that we often see the wheel well to trunk floors with what appears to be a two step sealant application. The first a very close or tight pattern just along that lower seam with tight narrow "waves" in the product. Then a much wider spray pattern in an application that included the second pass the other seams we see in the pictures. Some times the top coat is thicker so it hides the earlier tight/narrow pattern from view.
Picture three - Not going to seal around the Mustang/spare tie mounting bracket? Its would also hide the sealant you brushed around the bracket also that doesn't look original. This area is not always sprayed for some reason but it would hide that other sealant you applied
On the bottom picture showing the rear bumper support bracket the spray would have continued in to the seam between the floor and the rear lower panel to cover right to below where the gas tank would mount and seal that seem.
Over all looks like a light application of the product compared to some but has the texture that should get the application little notice once painted. For others considering this thing about how it would have been sprayed and what an application like that results in for the final look. If using a brush practice trying to apply in waves so that you get build up by tilting the brush as you lift and remove it front the surface working from where the spray application would have began to its end
And since this all gets covered with body color you might (since your sort of faking this) consider spraying the area at the dolly tie downs with a bare metal, like stainless steel, spray paint then place something over that has the right diameter and that sticks up maybe a 1/8 to 1'4 inch that will stay in place when you respray the body color. In this way you will get a softer paint edge and not a sharp one that someone would faking the dolly mark using simple masking tape or something similar.
Just a thoughts and some feedback. NOT picking on you or your work. Hope this helps you and others as they look forward to the process.
Edited for clarity and additional observations
Quote from: J_Speegle on June 27, 2025, 05:45:29 PMQuote from: cob428 on June 27, 2025, 04:42:30 PMOk How about some critique,l know , l know, dolly marks are next.
Would start off sharing that we often see the wheel well to trunk floors with what appears to be a two step sealant application. The first a very close or tight pattern just along that lower seam with tight narrow "waves" in the product. Then a much wider spray pattern in an application that included the second pass the other seams we see in the pictures. Some times the top coat is thicker so it hides the earlier tight/narrow pattern from view.
Picture three - Not going to seal around the Mustang/spare tie mounting bracket? Its would also hide the sealant you brushed around the bracket also that doesn't look original. This area is not always sprayed for some reason but it would hide that other sealant you applied
On the bottom picture showing the rear bumper support bracket the spray would have continued in to the seam between the floor and the rear lower panel to cover right to below where the gas tank would mount and seal that seem.
Over all looks like a light application of the product compared to some but has the texture that should get the application little notice once painted. For others considering this thing about how it would have been sprayed and what an application like that results in for the final look. If using a brush practice trying to apply in waves so that you get build up by tilting the brush as you lift and remove it front the surface working from where the spray application would have began to its end
And since this all gets covered with body color you might (since your sort of faking this) consider spraying the area at the dolly tie downs with a bare metal, like stainless steel, spray paint then place something over that has the right diameter and that sticks up maybe a 1/8 to 1'4 inch that will stay in place when you respray the body color. In this way you will get a softer paint edge and not a sharp one that someone would faking the dolly mark using simple masking tape or something similar.
Just a thoughts and some feedback. NOT picking on you or your work. Hope this helps you and others as they look forward to the process.
Edited for clarity and additional observations
Quote from: Coralsnake on June 27, 2025, 05:55:12 PMBoss
Quote from: J_Speegle on June 27, 2025, 05:45:29 PMQuote from: cob428 on June 27, 2025, 04:42:30 PMOk How about some critique,l know , l know, dolly marks are next.
Would start off sharing that we often see the wheel well to trunk floors with what appears to be a two step sealant application. The first a very close or tight pattern just along that lower seam with tight narrow "waves" in the product. Then a much wider spray pattern in an application that included the second pass the other seams we see in the pictures. Some times the top coat is thicker so it hides the earlier tight/narrow pattern from view.
Picture three - Not going to seal around the Mustang/spare tie mounting bracket? Its would also hide the sealant you brushed around the bracket also that doesn't look original. This area is not always sprayed for some reason but it would hide that other sealant you applied
On the bottom picture showing the rear bumper support bracket the spray would have continued in to the seam between the floor and the rear lower panel to cover right to below where the gas tank would mount and seal that seem.
Over all looks like a light application of the product compared to some but has the texture that should get the application little notice once painted. For others considering this thing about how it would have been sprayed and what an application like that results in for the final look. If using a brush practice trying to apply in waves so that you get build up by tilting the brush as you lift and remove it front the surface working from where the spray application would have began to its end
And since this all gets covered with body color you might (since your sort of faking this) consider spraying the area at the dolly tie downs with a bare metal, like stainless steel, spray paint then place something over that has the right diameter and that sticks up maybe a 1/8 to 1'4 inch that will stay in place when you respray the body color. In this way you will get a softer paint edge and not a sharp one that someone would faking the dolly mark using simple masking tape or something similar.
Just a thoughts and some feedback. NOT picking on you or your work. Hope this helps you and others as they look forward to the process.
Edited for clarity and additional observations
Jeff your statement about the 3rd picture has me messed up.I am doing around the spare tire mounting bracket but not following what you are saying about the bumper bracket, sorry for the questioning. Also I used spectrum product and did apply with a brush, trying to mimick the procedure from your article.
Pete
Quote from: cob428 on June 27, 2025, 06:09:43 PMJeff your statement about the 3rd picture has me messed up.I am doing around the spare tire mounting bracket but not following what you are saying about the bumper bracket, sorry for the questioning. Also I used spectrum product and did apply with a brush, trying to mimick the procedure from your article.
Pete
Ok maybe the following will help with this. IF not and I'm still coming across as confusing let me know and I'll try again
And yes I guessed by the look that you had seen my article and were likely using the same product.
A few pictures to illustrate my comments above
Pink arrow showing the tighter, narrower first sealant application step
Green arrow shows the beginning or end of possibly the first sealant application/pass with the wand held really close. We sometimes see this or a small daub of spray over the turn indicator control box mounting tab weld to trunk floor. This worker just tied them together
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-270625182009-211641320.jpeg)
Passenger side trunk floor showing the rear corner sealant application to the gas tank mounting location. Done on both sides. Since the paint has lifted and only rust remains this is not a good picture to show the typical size of a dolly retainer mark
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-270625181955-211591696.jpeg)
Ok got it now thank you.
Pete
Quote from: Bob Gaines on June 27, 2025, 05:17:42 PMThere should be stripe material folded over through side marker hole as triangle shaped tabs.
Bob is that top, bottonnonly or all 4 sides.
Pete
Quote from: cob428 on June 28, 2025, 05:28:00 PMQuote from: Bob Gaines on June 27, 2025, 05:17:42 PMThere should be stripe material folded over through side marker hole as triangle shaped tabs.
Bob is that top, bottonnonly or all 4 sides.
Pete
All 4 sides . A "X" was cut into the stripe and the pieces folded inward.
Are they glued onto the quarter or just laying there?
Pete
Quote from: cob428 on June 29, 2025, 08:00:25 PMAre they glued onto the quarter or just laying there?
Pete
The entire stripe had glue on it when it was cut and folded over.
Finished the sealer and starting the "paint oversparay" into the wheel well. Is the "overspray" more concentrated at the wheel lip side (more) and lighter towards the lower side?
Pete
It is hard to tell from the picture(lighting etc.) because it hardly shows any overspray color passed the upper lip. It typically showed up more pronounced.Given the green doesn't appear to show up in the lower picture it needs more. Don't over think the process. The assemblyline painters used guns that spray a lot of volume by contrast typical modern guns don't. Of course the base coat clear you are probably using doesn't cover as well like the assemblyline single stage did. You may have to improvise so as to get more visible color in that wheel well area. Imagine how the assemblyline worker did the process with the high volume gun and working fast sprayed the lip with no concern about overspray on the wheel well side. Everything thing got a liberal dose of over spray. Of course it varied from one car to the next and from one painter to the next . There was typically a range of coverage .You would typically see some color in the lower picture too.I am sure Jeff will be along to show some pictures or if you don't want to wait you can go to the Concours Mustang site and look at examples in the unrestored threads by year.
As mentioned the original spray guns applied a lot more product than you will see out of the modern guns today. This often results in more passes with the gun and in turn this makes producing details like shadows that look "real" (original) much more difficult sine each time you pass over to build up the color the gun and in turn the application is at a different angle and that softens the look of a shadow edge that originally was created by sometimes a single pass of the paint gun.
And for some areas such as the rear wheel wells we should likely IMO stop referring to the spray produced in the rear and front wheel wells as being overspray since this often leads people to assume that it was a mist and thin sort of an application. With the painters passing the spray gun directly over the open wheel well with the gun flowing 100% it in most cases created a nice coat of paint on the rear of the wheel well and exposed frame rail.
Back to the request and comments. Yes the green doesn't show up well in low light areas in you pictures so if the application is glossier and much heaver than it seems only you can see that given the color and the lighting. We see the same difficulty with other dark colors. Because of this I offer a couple of lighter and brighter original examples. As you and others view please understand these have often seen a fair amount so its not uncommon for the top paint coat to be warn away, in some cases down to the metal. Reason I placed the Don't symbol in the one picture since I know many will just look at the pictures and not rear the whole post
Hope these help. Need more or have more questions please ask. Remember that others will likely have the same or similar questions and that others will be viewing and reading these in the years to follow. One of the reasons we do this on a public forum
One's a repeat from early in this thread and a couple ar from one of the cars already shown but different angles and areas
In this picture we can clearly see all the white body color that reached the back of the wheel well area. Remember if this was cleaned up it would show even better how much paint is there
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-070725173353-211821842.jpeg)
Back of the wheel well area (exterior or quarter panel to the left) showing the back and top of this one
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-070725173356-211841036.jpeg)
Same car different angle and possibly other side of the car showing the top section of the wheel well
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-070725173353-21183860.jpeg)
Picture showing how far back, of the wheel well on to the rear frame rail and other panels on the area, the exterior paint application reached on this example. From past experience I would bet that at least the frame rails on this car would be cleaned and polished to look as good as the exterior painted surface of the car just to show the amount of paint that reached that surface.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-131015170433-46251404.jpeg)
And lastly. Though this is an example from another year I think the bright original color helps show the extent and amount of color one could typically find (plus the areas worn by usage and time) on cars like ours. Yes the exterior of the car had been repainted but they appear to have not painted over the rear wheel wells
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-070725175317-21185907.jpeg)
So I have the floor and the wheel wells done getting ready to do the pinch weld blackout. Did the blackout go onto the lower cowl area under the fenders?
There should not be any paint on the floor plugs and sealer. Those were installed after all painting was done.Black out was done behind the rear wheel well and rocker pinch weld before fenders were put on. Don't overthink application. Overspray drifted onto floor pansand frame rails from application.
Thanks I left all the plugs and plates out did not hit the sealer. Thanks again. I know you say don't over think it, how far up should the blackout go up the rocker? Should it stop at the horizontal part of the rocker or doesn't it make a difference?
Pete
Pi
Quote from: cob428 on July 28, 2025, 10:59:33 AMSo I have the floor and the wheel wells done getting ready to do the pinch weld blackout. Did the blackout go onto the lower cowl area under the fenders?
Pinch weld black out was applied from the very front edge in the front wheel well (no fender in place) to the rear valance. Typically the edge was pretty straight with a soft edge so often painters will use thin foam tape or back mask (bending the tape back over itself). At the front and rear of the rear wheel well there will be normally small sections where the spray entered that void when it shut off/ended the rocker panel section) and started up again at the rear of the opening.
Examples showing width and placement
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/15/6-270721190018-157941626.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-280725134156-2120486.jpeg)
Pinch weld behind the rear wheel well on the bottom edge of the quarter panel
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-280725134155-212032222.jpeg)
Depending on the angle of the application nozzle about 90% of the paint didn't get on the pinch weld but sprayed on the paint shield or directly onto the section of the floor next to and inward of the pinch weld. Often leaving a shadow on the back side of the pinch weld. This will all be automatically done if you apply the black out paint in a nice fairly heavy single pass of the gun. In the examples some of he black has worn away due to contact, age and exposure. Also when you look at some that are being restored often some of the black out paint was/is removed when they remove the Mach I style sound deadener from those sections of the floor
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/21/6-280725134321-21207331.jpeg)
Hope this helps you and others
In the "69 Dearborn undercarriage restoration guide" last step talks about "backside of rear valance". Did that also include performing the same step on the shelby valance? If so is it only above the center opening for the exhaust outlet?
Quote from: cob428 on August 07, 2025, 08:58:08 AMIn the "69 Dearborn undercarriage restoration guide" last step talks about "backside of rear valance". Did that also include performing the same step on the shelby valance? If so is it only above the center opening for the exhaust outlet?
In general during years and models it was applied to the sealant (referred to as "cow paddies" by some) were typically applied at the end or ends of the valance not the center. Looked through all my pictures and could not find a good picture of the back side of an original 69 or 70 Shelby to determine if that practice was done on those cars. Maybe someone out there has a picture or pictures to further our understanding. Sorry
Quote from: J_Speegle on August 07, 2025, 06:06:22 PMQuote from: cob428 on August 07, 2025, 08:58:08 AMIn the "69 Dearborn undercarriage restoration guide" last step talks about "backside of rear valance". Did that also include performing the same step on the shelby valance? If so is it only above the center opening for the exhaust outlet?
In general during years and models it was applied to the sealant (referred to as "cow paddies" by some) were typically applied at the end or ends of the valance not the center. Looked through all my pictures and could not find a good picture of the back side of an original 69 or 70 Shelby to determine if that practice was done on those cars. Maybe someone out there has a picture or pictures to further our understanding. Sorry
Here is a picture I got from Ed Meyer of the backside of a used Shelby valance showing the sound deadener just on the inside of the backup light hole.
Thanks Bob. Had 69 Dearborn Mustang examples so looks the same or similar.
Quote from: J_Speegle on August 07, 2025, 07:22:00 PMThanks Bob. Had 69 Dearborn Mustang examples so looks the same or similar.
I am guessing that there was not a need to change up what was done to the rear valance for a future Shelby so they didn't . For those reading AO Smith did tricky center opening cut.