I previously posted this in the lounge which in hindsight might have been the wrong area.
I could use some experienced eyes. I was looking at a 427 side oiler today (for sale) and I am certainly no expert on the subject.
I realize it is a service block(ribbed)
All comments appreciated.
description given to me by seller
Heads
- Ported and polished by ABS in the 80's. Had bronze guides, 3 angle valve job complete with Manley Stainless steel valves at the same time.
- In 2018 install the Harlen Sharp Roller Rockers, Harlen Sharp Rocker shaft supports and Chrome Moly Rocker Shafts.
- New Valve springs to match the new hydraulic roller cam were also installed in the 2018 build. Not sure of the brand.
- installed a stud kit to support the rocker shafts
Block and Crank:
- Block was bored 10 over to true up the cylinders. It was equipped with custom, forged pistons
- Block received all the standard FE improvements to assist oil flow.
- Pistons were equipped with H Beam rods. The crank also had a new aftermarket balancer installed. The entire assembly was balanced by ABS before assembly.
- The crank was standard and still is since it was brand new.
- installed Cloyes Tru Roller timing chain and steel gears as part of the new engine assembly. The block also received new high-flow oil pump.
- The cam was an after-market hydraulic roller. Good power but is very drivable.
Intake – dual quad intake C5AZ-9424-G. I purchased new reproduction Holley carbs to match the intake in 2018 plus a reproduction of the original centre throw linkage and fuel log that came with the original intake and carb set-up
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Anyone want to throw out a dollar value?
Not knowing what application you are looking for using it. Mustang uses a front sump oil pan. The rear cam plug (freeze plug) should be installed backwards relative to the standard freeze plug installation. If whoever built this is not familiar with FE sideoilier. Would check to make sure the oil bypass plunger is installed correctly. Easy to check before its installed.
10,000 ish.
It isn't "factory correct" for any restoration so it is really worth the total of it's parts.
It seems foolish for me to say that actually considering that even a "correct '67 Q code" will probably cost 30 to 35ish presuming that you could actually even find one.
There isn't anything particularly valuable on it considering that it is a hydraulic lifter block. It is a 1970 casting date which probably means it could have been a 427 NASCAR block.
A '68 dated block for a W code would be more valuable and depending on what it would be going in, a '65, 66, or '67 solid lifter block would be what others would be willing to pay for.
A '65 side oiler would be for a "cammer. Most '65 427's were still center oilers.
I would think that the pick of the litter for a 427 block would be a '67 R code block? That would also likely be for a CSX 3300 Cobra.
It's been years, in fact decades since I have seen a standard bore one of those. So many were heavily raced and broken. Some that could be repaired probably need to be retired from that kind of racing in favor of something like a Pond block (if you can get one).
CS Shelby blocks are in decent supply now but apply themselves better to Cobra replicas.
So it all goes back to what you want it for. How valuable it is to you and what kind of deal you can make with the seller.
If you want it to look right for just about any Shelby application, the ballancer, the water pump, the fuel pump, and the oil pan is wrong, so it really is an incomplete engine as far as that goes...and it has '68 GT500 valve cover so those are essentially wrong as well.
The valve train components are the right way to go although I question a hydraulic lifter cam of any kind in that engine.
Quote from: Royce Peterson on September 28, 2024, 06:55:34 PMLooks like it could use a bit more camshaft. The torque peak is at 5200 RPM. Likely the cam is not suited well to the engine.
topic moved from lounge with this reply.
Thank-you everybody for your comments. I have decided to pass.