What is the correct torque for the Lugnuts on 10-soke wheels? I was always taught to use anti seize, but I'm hearing now that maybe I shouldn't Comments? Thanks Steve.
Steve
Original 67 10 spokes? or reproductions? Two different styles of lug nuts. Original use a shoulder with a tapered seat. Repos use a spot face with a flat washer. I do not know what the manufactures spec is but most likely between 80-90 ftlb DRY on originals and 80-100 ftlb DRY on repos. Adding lubricate would significantly change the actual torque value. Almost all automotive manufactures torque specs are dry unless otherwise noted. Do not use anti-seize on wheel studs/nuts.
Rodney
Hi Steve,
I hope you have a shop manual for this car, as it will normally show as well as explain wheel details. Typical instructions say to use
anti sieze only between the hub and wheel surface-studs are to be clean and dry and wheels torqued in a star pattern to 100 ft lbs.
the most important step is a retorque after driving 500 miles. Aluminium wheels will "move" more than steel and it is VERY important
to check them after driving. This is also in the registry AND is for original wheels that use a tapered type lug nut. Most new 10 spokes
use a flat surface type lug with a washer and this type can use the same specs. We have seen both types come loose so do not take any chances on a loose wheel. Stay safe.
R.R.
Here are the two types of lug nuts Rod and Anthony are referring to;
First is the correct/Original and second is the repro with shank and washer...
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. I looked through the shop manual, but I guess I couldn't quickly find what I wanted and gave up. Thanks for helping me. Steve.
I like to use anti-seize on the original type only between the lug nut taper & wheel to prevent galling. Studs dry & torqued to 95-100. recheck as others have said!!
It is a VERY good idea to use anti-seize compound on the studs and lugs. Just don't over do it.
Once re-torqued the lugs will stay where you set them.
If you don't ant-seize the studs, just washing the car and letting the lugs sit for a year or so will tend to stress out the lugs in breaking them loose. They are not hardened steel and it is easy to deform them otherwise.
In addition, it wasn't mentioned, BUT ANYWHERE you use stainless steel bolts or nuts, you virtually have to use anti-seize on them. Those things just chafe the threads for no reason and strip out easily if you don't.
"In addition, it wasn't mentioned, BUT ANYWHERE you use stainless steel bolts or nuts, you virtually have to use anti-seize on them. Those things just chafe the threads for no reason and strip out easily if you don't."
I can verify that Stainless bolts with Stainless nuts are a real pain and you should use good anti-seize (and still cross your fingers). There is a theory running around that if you use different grades of Stainless bolts vs nuts that you will have better luck, but I do not know if this is true or an Old Mechanics tale.
Shelby Parts and Restoration used to sell stainless steel ten spoke /69 Shelby lugnuts . It was found out that you had to continuously re torque them as they frequently worked loose. Not the case with the chromed steel lugnuts.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 29, 2024, 08:11:35 PM
Shelby Parts and Restoration used to sell stainless steel ten spoke /69 Shelby lugnuts . It was found out that you had to continuously re torque them as they frequently worked loose. Not the case with the chromed steel lugnuts.
A switch from carbon steel to stainless steel in a structural application, such as lug nuts, is going to have risks.
I don't know of any application where stainless steel is used for other then a cosmetic application. It is never used for a structural application.
Where it gets threaded together, it has problems with the structural integrity of the cut threads themselves.
The chromed steel lug nuts need anti-seize compound as well.
I actually think that 100lbs-ft of torque on stainless steel is over stressing the threads.