Of the many 67/68 T-bird (nee, 67 Shelby) hubcaps I've collected, 4 hubcaps are nice enough to consider for concours.
There are three colors on these hubcaps and I need to know what is a color match that you have used or seen.
Outer area in trough with valve stem -- appears to be flat black.
Major portion of hubcap including area under spokes -- looks like flat Mustang argent.
Area in the 'five cooling vent' area -- appears to be a flat silver-white argent.
As noted, all colors appear to be flat.
Sounds about right. Let the experts confirm.
https://www.diyford.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/CT507_FULLBOOK_ShelbyMustangGuide_Page_128_Image_0003.jpg
That would look so DANG good as a 15x8" wheel with a 4-1/4" backspace and a 275/55 R 15 Avon C6RZZ on it. 🤓
Outer area in trough with valve stem -- appears to be flat black. "A" on the image below
Major portion of hubcap including area under spokes -- looks like flat Mustang argent. "B" on the image below - maybe semi-gloss not flat
Area in the 'five cooling vent' area -- appears to be a flat silver-white argent. "C" below - silver not white, also semi-gloss?
As noted, all colors appear to be flat.
Maybe others will chime in, I know Kieth has some more images and others as well.
Also, a photo someone posted or sent with the center element removed, show the color fade from exposure.
One other thing, there seems to be a later issue version (service replacement?) of these that has the gray metallic section with a much more pronounced "larger" metal-flake.
Quote from: JD on July 22, 2018, 10:17:39 AM
Outer area in trough with valve stem -- appears to be flat black. "A" on the image below
Major portion of hubcap including area under spokes -- looks like flat Mustang argent. "B" on the image below - maybe semi-gloss not flat
Area in the 'five cooling vent' area -- appears to be a flat silver-white argent. "C" below - silver not white, also semi-gloss?
As noted, all colors appear to be flat.
Maybe others will chime in, I know Kieth has some more images and others as well.
Also, a photo someone posted or sent with the center element removed, show the color fade from exposure.
One other thing, there seems to be a later issue version (service replacement?) of these that has the gray metallic section with a much more pronounced "larger" metal-flake.
JD, Nice photos to show the differences. They might be from Kieth.
I would think the "B" area in gray/silver argent is either flat or satin, NOT semi gloss.
Same for the "C" area in silver (NO white) flat or satin, NOT semi gloss
Here's another photo I believe is an NOS hupcap from Kieth
Quote from: JD on July 22, 2018, 10:17:39 AM
Outer area in trough with valve stem -- appears to be flat black. "A" on the image below
Major portion of hubcap including area under spokes -- looks like flat Mustang argent. "B" on the image below - maybe semi-gloss not flat
Area in the 'five cooling vent' area -- appears to be a flat silver-white argent. "C" below - silver not white, also semi-gloss?
As noted, all colors appear to be flat.
Maybe others will chime in, I know Kieth has some more images and others as well.
Also, a photo someone posted or sent with the center element removed, show the color fade from exposure.
One other thing, there seems to be a later issue version (service replacement?) of these that has the gray metallic section with a much more pronounced "larger" metal-flake.
I thought i would mention that the emblem in the hubcap used for reference indicates that the hubcap is a later service style that never came on the cars originally. However I believe that the colors and shades described are accurate.
On my NOS wheel covers, my eyes see:
"A" as flat black,
"B" as semi-flat charcoal,
"C" as flat Argent silver:
(http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2488.0;attach=6119;image)
Quote from: SFM66H on July 23, 2018, 02:44:10 PM
On my NOS wheel covers, my eyes see:
"A" as flat black,
"B" as semi-flat charcoal,
"C" as flat Argent silver:
(http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2488.0;attach=6119;image)
I am not sure if the picture is of your NOS hubcap or the same one JD posted but It appears that when you compare the center emblem in the picture with the center emblem in reply 4 that the picture in this case is the later service replacement with the mustard colored emblem . Of course it could just be the angle and the lighting. The emblem mustard color is very similar to what the repro gas cap, fender and grill emblems look like. The repro people may have used the hubcap emblem as a basis for all of the other wrong colored emblems. It is common for the repro companies to take the last item serviced before it went obsolete as a model to copy from.
JD's photo looks like it has the plastic floor protector from the concours judging at SAAC 40 in the Kalahari.
Might be #1518 hubcaps.
Quote from: SFM66H on July 23, 2018, 02:44:10 PM
On my NOS wheel covers, my eyes see:
"A" as flat black,
"B" as semi-flat charcoal,
"C" as flat Argent silver.
Thanks for the detailed pic. I know what flat black is; semi-flat charcoal is no std Mustang color that I know of, but I can find something close; Argent silver is another odd one.
I've added a pic below to illustrate that on all of my hubcaps the color 'B' is also on the area with a blue line I've marked as 'D' (6:00 o'clock). It follows the small step and stops on the flat edge of the cap.
I can't tell from the angle of your shot if your cap has this area painted or not.
I found an un-restored 67 Shelby at Roundup this last weekend with caps, and it has this area painted.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on July 22, 2018, 11:46:53 AM
I thought i would mention that the emblem in the hubcap used for reference indicates that the hubcap is a later service style that never came on the cars originally. However I believe that the colors and shades described are accurate.
Bob -- How can you tell that? What are you seeing that I cannot? Can you tell me which pic?
My caps are all C7SA-1141-A and the area inside where the Shelby logo goes is 1.7". On edit, while I was writing, Bob answered the question!
this may help regarding the emblems and Bob's comment to those that didn't get Bob's reply to the OP.
Note the color of these emblems and the one (second image) close-up and rotated is of the one in replies above. (the one on the far right in the first image is to show that some have used horn button foils which was never - to my knowledge - used and not correct.)
Also note how close the "S" and "A" are to the inside of the cavity.
The gray indicated in above images as area "B" does have metallic but it is (should be) very fine.
Rich, yes that would seem to be the car. It was judged twice, Wisconsin and Pa events consecutive years.
Very good data on the cap emblem variations, JD. Thanks. That clears up a lot of questions other than where do I find a set of real emblems?
Finding hubcaps in restorable condition has been tough. Finding correct wheels has been tougher. I also need to find the post in which someone was selling the correct lug nuts.
I didn't know going in how difficult it was to do a correct steel wheel and hubcap combination!
Just for reference here is a comparison of the three types of lug nuts used on '67's...for some that may not be aware.
Also, The wheel covers used the smallest of the 3 version of emblems for the '67 centers, the 10-spoke was the middle size and the Mag Star was the largest.
Quote from: Bossbill on July 24, 2018, 12:47:04 PM
Very good data on the cap emblem variations, JD. Thanks. That clears up a lot of questions other than where do I find a set of real emblems?
Finding hubcaps in restorable condition has been tough. Finding correct wheels has been tougher. I also need to find the post in which someone was selling the correct lug nuts.
I didn't know going in how difficult it was to do a correct steel wheel and hubcap combination!
I believe it is Jim Cowles from "Shelby Parts & Restorations" who offered the lug nuts for the hubcaps.
Quote from: Bossbill on July 24, 2018, 12:47:04 PM
Very good data on the cap emblem variations, JD. Thanks. That clears up a lot of questions other than where do I find a set of real emblems?
Finding hubcaps in restorable condition has been tough. Finding correct wheels has been tougher. I also need to find the post in which someone was selling the correct lug nuts.
I didn't know going in how difficult it was to do a correct steel wheel and hubcap combination!
Bill ,I am sorry to say don't hold your breath . I have never seen any for sale separate from the hubcaps. I have being a Shelby enthusiast and parts hound for over 45 years. I don't even know if they were ever serviced separately . If they were it wasn't for very long . I didn't think a GT500 flat gas cap emblem was serviced ether but one day I saw one. My point is the odds of you finding are slim . You would have better luck ether finding NOS or putting together a nice used set utilizing center half that still looks acceptable and pairing that with a nice outside rim. You could also go to the trouble of making up some emblems of your own starting from scratch. Using existing emblems and cutting them down has been discussed but it depends on your expectations if you would be satisfied. More power to you.
Bob,
Would you happen to know if the Shelby hub caps were Thunderbird caps with the inserts installed over the Thunderbird emblem? If they began life as Thunderbird completed units, were the Thunderbird inserts removed or were the Shelby emblems installed directly over the existing?
Thanks in advance.
Dennis
Quote from: Richstang on July 24, 2018, 02:01:49 PM
I believe it is Jim Cowles from "Shelby Parts & Restorations" who offered the lug nuts for the hubcaps.
Contacted, Paypaled with the lugs in the mail.
Thanks to you and Jim!
JD's reply #3 has a picture of the hubcap disassembled. It shows the blue T-bird emblem.
While at our assembly of "Largest assembly of Mustangs in the World" at Bellevue's Roundup an original, unrestored (one repaint early in its life) and often driven GT350 hubcap car showed up. It has its original caps (according to the owner) and has lost 2 of the Shelby cap emblems over the years due to the glue failing. I took a picture of the blue cap. The other 2 caps were correct, if faded, with the outline showing.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/411-240718210323.jpeg)
Hope to see what Bob thinks!
Quote from: Bossbill on July 24, 2018, 09:11:52 PM
JD's reply #3 has a picture of the hubcap disassembled. It shows the blue T-bird emblem.
While at our assembly of "Largest assembly of Mustangs in the World" at Bellevue's Roundup an original, unrestored (one repaint early in its life) and often driven GT350 hubcap car showed up. It has its original caps (according to the owner) and has lost 2 of the Shelby cap emblems over the years due to the glue failing. I took a picture of the blue cap. The other 2 caps were correct, if faded, with the outline showing.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/411-240718210323.jpeg)
Hope to see what Bob thinks!
Sorry . I don't buy it . I am skeptical of the glue failing story. Call me a cynic but I have heard too many stories(literally hundreds over the years ) to justify a non original as original in my life. The easiest explanation is typically the most plausible - they got replaced . That is what I think since you asked . Regardless it doesn't really matter if the owner is spinning a glue failing story to justify a non original part or not because it still is just as much a problem if original or if a replacement from a T bird because it is missing the emblem. FYI T bird hubcaps are great donors. That is what the picture JD showed . It was my picture that I posted in a for sale ad showing what you could use off of a T bird hubcap to help make a Shelby hubcap better. I had a excellent T bird hubcap I was selling. The outside plate is the most often damaged part because of curb rash on the Shelby hubcaps.
I'll trust you, Bob.
But it still begs the question.
How is the emblem center of the Shelby hubcap constructed? What's under the Shelby Cobra foil emblem?
The Shelby foil emblem was glued to the blue t-bird emblem. But, the foil emblem(like the t-bird plastic emblem) is larger than the opening, so it makes it hard for it to fall out.
The plastic center is held firmly in place by metal tabs on the back side. I have had Shelby foil emblems that had no glue remaining (dried out) but still held in place by the metal tabs. The are actually wedged between the hubcap housing and the plastic emblems with the metal tabs.
Brent
I realize some of you may have tired of this discussion, but I was not party to the initial thread in V1.0 and some of the pics posted in this thread were from that version in different posts without all of the background info from those posts.
Brent has raised an interesting point about emblem size and how it was installed.
If one were to stick an adhesive foil on an existing T-bird emblem from the outside of the cap it could be no larger than 1.70 inches -- the inside diameter of the 5 spoke's emblem area. That is the maximum size, so any emblem would have to have a slightly smaller diameter for production variances in spoke and emblem.
I took the pic that JD posted of the emblems:
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/411-250718140007.jpeg)
and edited it show just the first emblem. This appears to be of an emblem put on after the fact. If the emblem were installed as Brent says, there would be no dark background around the edge of the emblem. The off center nature also suggests this.
Any emblem put on top of the T-Bird emblem and installed from the rear of the 5 spoke could be up to 1.865" (the OD of the T-bird emblem) and then it would be held captive in the cavity.
At least that's how I see it from the information you guys have given me.
just so some don't mis-understand I believe these emblems are aluminum but not "foil" thin - they are heavy enough gauge to be rigid.
The only emblems that I'm aware of that were foil were the steering wheel horn button emblems
Quote from: JD on July 25, 2018, 03:46:25 PM
just so some don't mis-understand I believe these emblems are aluminum but not "foil" thin - they are heavy enough gauge to be rigid.
The only emblems that I'm aware of that were foil were the steering wheel horn button emblems
+1
Quote from: Bossbill on July 23, 2018, 03:50:00 PMI've added a pic below to illustrate that on all of my hubcaps the color 'B' is also on the area with a blue line I've marked as 'D' (6:00 o'clock). It follows the small step and stops on the flat edge of the cap.
I can't tell from the angle of your shot if your cap has this area painted or not.
I found an un-restored 67 Shelby at Roundup this last weekend with caps, and it has this area painted
Quote from: Bossbill on July 23, 2018, 03:50:00 PMQuote from: SFM66H on July 23, 2018, 02:44:10 PMOn my NOS wheel covers, my eyes see:
"A" as flat black,
"B" as semi-flat charcoal,
"C" as flat Argent silver.
Thanks for the detailed pic. I know what flat black is; semi-flat charcoal is no std Mustang color that I know of, but I can find something close; Argent silver is another odd one.
I've added a pic below to illustrate that on all of my hubcaps the color 'B' is also on the area with a blue line I've marked as 'D' (6:00 o'clock). It follows the small step and stops on the flat edge of the cap.
I can't tell from the angle of your shot if your cap has this area painted or not.
I found an un-restored 67 Shelby at Roundup this last weekend with caps, and it has this area painted.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on July 22, 2018, 11:46:53 AMI thought i would mention that the emblem in the hubcap used for reference indicates that the hubcap is a later service style that never came on the cars originally. However I believe that the colors and shades described are accurate.
Bob -- How can you tell that? What are you seeing that I cannot? Can you tell me which pic?
My caps are all C7SA-1141-A and the area inside where the Shelby logo goes is 1.7".
On edit, while I was writing, Bob answered the question!
Hi Bill, I know this is old post but I was looking up something and came across it. The area you are asking about (D) I've found to be the same charcoal as the center. I have dozens of pictures if you need them
Posting these so search later will show. In previous post Bill asked about an area he marked "D" and the finish. Here are several pictures showing transition from black to charcoal to polished. These are assembly line and not sure service caps have the charcoal out there
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/83448d44-3a0a-4cbe-bdb4-738f0bf75805/1680c72f-45ae-49f1-956d-3a1de7fdc746.jpeg?width=320&height=320&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/83448d44-3a0a-4cbe-bdb4-738f0bf75805/635a8d44-d365-4940-8292-4c7791f49a2f.jpeg?width=320&height=320&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/83448d44-3a0a-4cbe-bdb4-738f0bf75805/8847b9db-7726-4964-a0e1-b8409dd59577.jpeg?width=320&height=320&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/83448d44-3a0a-4cbe-bdb4-738f0bf75805/74b3052a-da5b-434d-aab7-2a9378792669.jpeg?width=320&height=320&fit=bounds)
Regarding the myth that Shelby emblems were not put over T bird centers,
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/83448d44-3a0a-4cbe-bdb4-738f0bf75805/b01b679f-b28a-46a0-8750-493cac1d062f.jpeg?width=320&height=320&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/83448d44-3a0a-4cbe-bdb4-738f0bf75805/347b6621-0f6c-44b7-9d38-86c17bd4c107.jpeg?width=320&height=320&fit=bounds)
Tim -- I've collected dozens of these 'wheelcovers', Shelby and T-bird. All of them use T-bird centers.
I was going to have a couple of the main covers batch chrome plated instead of 3 step plated. Judging by a few I tried to polish, there is no copper of other finish under the extremely thin chrome plate.
A few of the T-Bird covers I collected have a course 80 grit texture instead of paint in the center. A few are not textured but appear to be the same color as the car, a blue as I recall from my one example -- still in a Ford box.
Considering how hard it is to tape and paint these paint the money spent toward NOS Shelby examples is well spent. Unless you really hate your painter.
The originals are flash chromed over stainless. A good stainless guy can get it off and polish the stainless
so, my set of original wheel cover with centers.....the centers are the same as the "shelby cobra" steering wheel center.
Quote from: 67 GT350 on February 09, 2026, 09:27:43 PMso, my set of original wheel cover with centers.....the centers are the same as the "shelby cobra" steering wheel center.
A different size I believe.
Quote from: 67 GT350 on February 09, 2026, 09:27:43 PMso, my set of original wheel cover with centers.....the centers are the same as the "shelby cobra" steering wheel center.
The steering wheels that the horn button foil centers read "Shelby Cobra" are service replacements . The "Shelby Cobra" version meant less service inventory instead of have a GT350 and also a GT500 like the assemblyline buttons read.
"67 GT350" - Can you post a photo?
as Bob said above, the original steering wheel centers have GT350 or GT500 and very thin like foil, the replacements do not have the model designation. See reply #10 of this thread, the far right image.
The wheel center emblems are thicker aluminum, too thick to crumple in your hand.
Here is an original '67 Wheel cover with the center enlarged on the right and a 10-spoke wheel center on the left, the emblem is not placed on top but captured below the Wheel cover center, note the lack of space between the "S" and the "A" at the edges of the 10-spoke emblem.
Quote from: JD on February 10, 2026, 09:28:07 AMHere is an original '67 Wheel cover with the center enlarged on the right and a 10-spoke wheel center on the left, the emblem is not placed on top but captured below the Wheel cover center, note the lack of space between the "S" and the "A" at the edges of the 10-spoke emblem.
Great comparison job as usual JD. That should help anyone to understand the difference.
I will try to post what I got, wheel cover centers and a horn ring foil, so you can see what I am talking about..
here
so middle picture shows the shelby cobra 67 center foil, the CS foil shows that it fits the wheel cover. Thus the steering wheel foil shelby cobra must also fit.
The subject is a moot point regardless because it will be quite a trick finding 3 more service replacement horn button foils since they were never reproduced and the hubcap emblems never came with GT350 or 500 designations that are available. At least they used to be sold separately. Another issue is the Shelby Cobra service horn button appears to be the same mustard shade as the service replacement hubcaps.
Answer is obvious, somebody needs to have them reproduced.
Quote from: 67 GT350 on February 11, 2026, 08:53:28 PMhere so middle picture shows the shelby cobra 67 center foil, the CS foil shows that it fits the wheel cover. Thus the steering wheel foil shelby cobra must also fit.
The only emblems that I'm aware of that were foil were the steering wheel horn button emblems.
Again, just so some don't mis-understand the all of the wheel center emblems (Wheel cover, Mag Star & 10-Spoke) are aluminum but not "foil" thin - they are heavy enough gauge to be rigid, the faces of these were subjected to the elements! "foil" like steering wheel center emblems were captured between a clear plastic top and a black plastic bottom pieces both curved and the foil is thin enough to conform to that convex shape. Take your steering wheel center button apart and you'll see - BE VERY CARFUL as it is easily damaged!!!
Steering Wheel emblems is not a good solution for a wheel cover center, also as Bob has stated, trying to use the steering wheel, generic version - no model designation - IF it fit well enough to try and use finding 4 might prove rather difficult and not likely they would survive the use conditions - subject to real world elements and if touched will deform as they are too thin.
I do think that the original '67 Wheel cover emblems were captured between the Thunderbird molded plastic and the chromed finish outer part, held in with some tabs. There are other wheel emblems that can be used/made to fit such as the 10-spoke wheel centers.
It seems someone did make some ridged aluminum disks - not foil thin - that would drop-in from the front but I think they must have had to be glued in/adhered. I have seen them on a couple cars that were judged at SAAC Concours events - the tell was that they were not embossed like the original wheel cover emblems!
My suggestion for anyone looking to have Shelby emblems for the '67 Wheel Covers is to get 4 of the 10-spoke centers and disassemble the center of the wheel covers and capture them in place like the originals were. The "S" and "A" will be a bit tight in the opening, as illustrated in the photos already posted in this thread, but there aren't too many options. Making some would need to involve Ford and or Shelby licensing ??
Quote from: TLea on February 12, 2026, 07:41:01 AMAnswer is obvious, somebody needs to have them reproduced.
yup, What are the complications in doing do? I would use my steering wheel foil....
The right reference is an original '67 Wheel Cover emblem, not a steering wheel label.
Artwork and specs created from the Wheel Cover emblem will need to be made as a starting point.
Proper gauge, correct color anodized aluminum plate with correct finish, will need to be sourced, Trimming die, embossing die, printing plates (black and matte clear) and approval, licensing agreement from Ford/Shelby.
Quote from: JD on February 12, 2026, 11:58:23 AMThe right reference is an original '67 Wheel Cover emblem, not a steering wheel label.
Artwork and specs created from the Wheel Cover emblem will need to be made as a starting point.
Proper gauge, correct color anodized aluminum plate with correct finish, will need to be sourced, Trimming die, embossing die, printing plates (black and matte clear) and approval, licensing agreement from Ford/Shelby.
This issues raises its ugly head every year or so. You could have some made using all of the steps JD laid out for yourself and not raise any eyebrows but if you start selling to others expect legal push back to the extreme. Unfortunately I see the costs assosiated with having some authentic looking ones made up for ones self most likely exceeding the cost of buying a set of NOS hubcaps. Unlike 68 Shelby's where all cars got hubcaps there is a much smaller fraction of a market by comparison for selling 67 Shelby hubcap emblems . That has no doubt influenced others on making the financial,time consuming and stress related commitment .
What JD is talking about using the 10 spoke emblem IMO is the only viable option. Honestly unless you're right on top of it it's is hard to tell. Looks way better than the non embossed version.
Quote from: TLea on February 12, 2026, 01:43:49 PMWhat JD is talking about using the 10 spoke emblem IMO is the only viable option. Honestly unless you're right on top of it it's is hard to tell. Looks way better than the non embossed version.
I agree it is the next best thing short of concours correct. Of course that is the first thing I check for if the centers look nice.
Quote from: JD on February 12, 2026, 11:58:23 AMThe right reference is an original '67 Wheel Cover emblem, not a steering wheel label.
Artwork and specs created from the Wheel Cover emblem will need to be made as a starting point.
Proper gauge, correct color anodized aluminum plate with correct finish, will need to be sourced, Trimming die, embossing die, printing plates (black and matte clear) and approval, licensing agreement from Ford/Shelby.
OK send me one...I have examined them and I feel that it is the same....how about posing one of each so I can see the difference next to each other?
Quote from: TLea on February 05, 2026, 02:41:55 PMThe originals are flash chromed over stainless. A good stainless guy can get it off and polish the stainless
On the 2 or 3 I tried polishing there was a distinct blackish ring left under the chrome. It almost looked like a heat treat.
BTW, Flash = Batch chrome in my area of the states.
The dark is what happen when you polish stainless