I think that I read that some have installed Hooker headers on an engine first before installing the engine. Then installing the engine, transmission and headers together as a unit?
Has anyone here tried that?
I believe I did it that way on 67#3115 years ago. i had the stock engine getting rebuilt I put another 428 in to run the car around and had a nice set of headers and baffled side exits. man that car was loud!
Quote from: shelbydoug on October 05, 2023, 05:47:57 PM
I think that I read that some have installed Hooker headers on an engine first before installing the engine. Then installing the engine, transmission and headers together as a unit?
Has anyone here tried that?
It is common to do that with stock exhaust manifolds .Many years ago I tried with hooker headers and failed. I haven't tried since because I have more respect for my time. When you see a complete FE engine with hooker headers installed hanging over the engine compartment it becomes very clear it will not fit by lowering in. I am not going to go into describing what goes into prefitting the terrible fitting Hooker headers if they are the first time going on a particular Mustang body.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on October 05, 2023, 07:29:32 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on October 05, 2023, 05:47:57 PM
I think that I read that some have installed Hooker headers on an engine first before installing the engine. Then installing the engine, transmission and headers together as a unit?
Has anyone here tried that?
It is common to do that with stock exhaust manifolds .Many years ago I tried with hooker headers and failed. I haven't tried since because I have more respect for my time. When you see a complete FE engine with hooker headers installed hanging over the engine compartment it becomes very clear it will not fit by lowering in. I am not going to go into describing what goes into prefitting the terrible fitting Hooker headers if they are the first time going on a particular Mustang body.
I have a very early set from 67 or 68. A different style then currently produced. A different part number. They tuck in quite tightly. Don't hang down like the current part. The collector is parallel to the floor, not angled down like the current part.
I thought someone had mentioned a successful installation with the headers mounted. So I thought that I would ask again to refresh my memory.
Quote from: shelbydoug on October 05, 2023, 07:44:01 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on October 05, 2023, 07:29:32 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on October 05, 2023, 05:47:57 PM
I think that I read that some have installed Hooker headers on an engine first before installing the engine. Then installing the engine, transmission and headers together as a unit?
Has anyone here tried that?
It is common to do that with stock exhaust manifolds .Many years ago I tried with hooker headers and failed. I haven't tried since because I have more respect for my time. When you see a complete FE engine with hooker headers installed hanging over the engine compartment it becomes very clear it will not fit by lowering in. I am not going to go into describing what goes into prefitting the terrible fitting Hooker headers if they are the first time going on a particular Mustang body.
I have a very early set from 67 or 68. A different style then currently produced. A different part number. They tuck in quite tightly. Don't hang down like the current part. The collector is parallel to the floor, not angled down like the current part.
I thought someone had mentioned a successful installation with the headers mounted. So I thought that I would ask again to refresh my memory.
I would guess later then that. I don't think hooker made a header for a FE to fit in a 67-70 Mustang until 1969 .
Quote from: Bob Gaines on October 05, 2023, 07:48:56 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on October 05, 2023, 07:44:01 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on October 05, 2023, 07:29:32 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on October 05, 2023, 05:47:57 PM
I think that I read that some have installed Hooker headers on an engine first before installing the engine. Then installing the engine, transmission and headers together as a unit?
Has anyone here tried that?
It is common to do that with stock exhaust manifolds .Many years ago I tried with hooker headers and failed. I haven't tried since because I have more respect for my time. When you see a complete FE engine with hooker headers installed hanging over the engine compartment it becomes very clear it will not fit by lowering in. I am not going to go into describing what goes into prefitting the terrible fitting Hooker headers if they are the first time going on a particular Mustang body.
I have a very early set from 67 or 68. A different style then currently produced. A different part number. They tuck in quite tightly. Don't hang down like the current part. The collector is parallel to the floor, not angled down like the current part.
I thought someone had mentioned a successful installation with the headers mounted. So I thought that I would ask again to refresh my memory.
I would guess later then that. I don't think hooker made a header for a FE to fit in a Mustang until 69 .
I can't prove that they are Hookers. They guy that I bought them from said they were and from his 69 Mach 1. They are stamped with a strange part number that I could not cross reference.
I know that Hooker was sold a couple of times and currently they label the headers quite clearly so that you know what they are. They are nicely made and not a cheap haphazard set. I'm going with them. There is no point in going that original, original exhausts, on this car.
I installed some FE´s in my mustangs with the JBA Headers installed with no big problems. It's tricky as you have to use a good angle for the engine to tuck it in and then you have to make a small turn while lowering it with the crane. But when you know how and did it some times its really a easy task.
IF these aren't Hookers, does anyone recognize them?
While I have these pictures up, is there a different dipstick tube for a '67 and a '68? When I bolt the tube up to the exhaust manifold, the tube pulls out of the block.
Sometimes people install an engine with just one side attached. Which ever side is the hardest to do after the engine is installed then do the easier side after.
Roy
Quote from: TA Coupe on October 07, 2023, 01:19:42 AM
Sometimes people install an engine with just one side attached. Which ever side is the hardest to do after the engine is installed then do the easier side after.
Roy
I won't know until I try to do it. The reason I'm using used headers is because they were already fit to a running car which is illustrated by various dimples made in some of the tubes to clear obstacles.
To my knowledge they came out of a 69 cj Mustang and there is a chance that the 67 chassis they are going into may have a couple of small differences which I can't take into account until I try the installation.
If you ask me, the starter side looks more daunting but I won't know until I do this.
One suggestion was to leave the engine hanging up off of the mounts a few inches and then drop the headers in at that point and bolt them up. That may make better sense and maybe this forum was just the wrong place to ask about installing headers? I'm not reaching the people who know?
On my c code 68 fastback I have had a set of Coyote brand headers on it for about 30-35 years. My understanding is they were made by Hooker as a less expensive version, but I bought them used in the 80's, so?. Engine is 428 CJ. I think most brands were advertised to fit 67-70 Mustangs, back in the day at least. They fit fine. My car has auto trans & no power steering.
It has been probably 20 years since the engine was out, but when I was racing it somewhat regularly I pulled the engine from time to time.
I always left the transmission in the car, then kind of worked the headers and the engine in at the same, usually with some help to work each side in, drop the engine a little, etc.
And I have all 32 header bolts installed! That takes longer than installing the engine!!
And I don't think there's any way the engine would go in with the headers already attached.
Hope this helps a little
Thanks Mike. I'm just picking everyone's brain. It looks like we lay them in the chassis engine out, then lower engine to where they can be attached, then finish lowering the engine.
I don't know how easy that will be but likely more doable then other methods.
I am hoping that someone will be able to cross reference that stamping number from an old catalog but it probably doesn't matter very much at this point.
I don't think that it is possible to get equal length headers in this engine/chassis configuration so I don't see what an economy set would do to change anything.
In addition on FE's the exhaust ports are all the same. They are all, not good which is why many camshafts are ground on 113 degrees instead of 110. So with that in mind, there really isn't anything to be gained with bigger tubes, etc.
Cobrask8 can you elaborate on hookers since you put them on my car?
I still can't find a cross refernce to that header part.
I found the Cyclone, a '73 Hooker catalog, Doug's. Nada.
I know you all are sticklers for accurate details so it troubles me that all I can do is refer to them as early Hookers, but I'm still gonna' use 'em anyway.
Quote from: shelbydoug on October 07, 2023, 12:10:34 PM
Thanks Mike. I'm just picking everyone's brain. It looks like we lay them in the chassis engine out, then lower engine to where they can be attached, then finish lowering the engine.
I don't know how easy that will be but likely more doable then other methods.
I am hoping that someone will be able to cross reference that stamping number from an old catalog but it probably doesn't matter very much at this point.
I don't think that it is possible to get equal length headers in this engine/chassis configuration so I don't see what an economy set would do to change anything.
In addition on FE's the exhaust ports are all the same. They are all, not good which is why many camshafts are ground on 113 degrees instead of 110. So with that in mind, there really isn't anything to be gained with bigger tubes, etc.
The only equal length headers that I have seen were the fender well type. That is not worth doing in your situation IMO. So that you have the maximum header clearance possible you should double check that your shock towers have not sagged in ward any. I call that big blockitis ;) I have always found a easy ruler was a original Ford one piece Shelby export brace that you could set down in place on the shock tower studs without ANY prying etc. If it will drop into place and all bolt holes line up etc. then it is a excellent indications that the shock towers are in the original assemblyline position. If they are not I have always used a harbor freight porta power set up to spread the shock towers back into place. FYI although easier with the engine out I have successfully done this with the engine already installed.
I have not seen 180° headers for a BB '60's "Mustang". I have seen them for the Boss 302 made by Doug's.
They cross over behind the sump, under the engine. The FE's have the same space available.
I have no intentions of going in that direction.
Hooker does still make a set of "Competition" headers for the FE. Those are 2-1/8" primary tubes and the slip together. The front two tubes on each side go in front of the suspension and under.
They are very visible from the front view of the car and some have described them as "Gorilla knuckles hanging down". They hang "just a little bit too low" for a street car and are thin wall tubes so they run really loud.
There is little point in going through the effort of attempting better breathing then standard headers and better mufflers if you are using any stock heads. The exhausts ports in the heads are too restrictive.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on October 08, 2023, 01:10:30 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on October 07, 2023, 12:10:34 PM
Thanks Mike. I'm just picking everyone's brain. It looks like we lay them in the chassis engine out, then lower engine to where they can be attached, then finish lowering the engine.
I don't know how easy that will be but likely more doable then other methods.
I am hoping that someone will be able to cross reference that stamping number from an old catalog but it probably doesn't matter very much at this point.
I don't think that it is possible to get equal length headers in this engine/chassis configuration so I don't see what an economy set would do to change anything.
In addition on FE's the exhaust ports are all the same. They are all, not good which is why many camshafts are ground on 113 degrees instead of 110. So with that in mind, there really isn't anything to be gained with bigger tubes, etc.
The only equal length headers that I have seen were the fender well type. That is not worth doing in your situation IMO. So that you have the maximum header clearance possible you should double check that your shock towers have not sagged in ward any. I call that big blockitis ;) I have always found a easy ruler was a original Ford one piece Shelby export brace that you could set down in place on the shock tower studs without ANY prying etc. If it will drop into place and all bolt holes line up etc. then it is a excellent indications that the shock towers are in the original assembly line position. If they are not I have always used a harbor freight porta power set up to spread the shock towers back into place. FYI although easier with the engine out I have successfully done this with the engine already installed.
Yes Bob, the one piece brace works great. I once bought a 68 Bullitt car(390 4 speed highland green) with out braces on it. I think they "Dukes of Hazard" the car before. My one piece brace didn't come close to fitting. So as a skilled tradesman I got some black pipe, threaded rod, nuts, and did some welding and I had a shock towers expanded back to original position. Of course I had to go beyond the fit for "spring back" but got the towers to fit the one piece brace. Then installed the factory 2 braces. The car was a pretty solid car
I run Vintage Hookers on 4 of my Big Block cars, The numbers are 6111- 6113 if memory serves me right. The difference is between my 427 Fairlane and my 427 Shelbys. They are tight fitting, you cant install them on the engine and drop it in that wont work. You must either drop the headers in first then drop your engine in or engine first then wiggle jiggle the engine from side to side to get them in place. Then you must begin one of the most grueling tests of will power and patience you will probably ever experience. You must have a GREAT selection of tools from sockets, extensions, open end and box wrenches. Then call up your grand kids or friends with Baby hands not Bear Paws like mine!You will get there or pay a nimble 25 year old to install them, it might be money well spent!
I should have got a Hemi instead.
These are current version hooker supercomps on my KR.I paid my mechanic to put them on, he did it with engine in place but was in a VERY bad mood when i picked the car up and used a lot of swear words to describe the job.
Quote from: Jack4159 on October 12, 2023, 01:48:38 PM
These are current version hooker supercomps on my KR.I paid my mechanic to put them on, he did it with engine in place but was in a VERY bad mood when i picked the car up and used a lot of swear words to describe the job.
Looks like he didn't make any money on that job ? Looks good though.
I installed Hooker Super Comps on my 68 KR and the easiest way was as follows:
1.) Leave the engine mounts off the engine.
2.) Lower the engine to about 4-6" above final install location.
3.) Slide the headers in from the radiator opening on both sides.
4.) I used the smaller 3/8" diameter head s.s. header bolts and install gaskets and bolts finger tight. Be sure to check headers, gaskets and bolts fit before dropping the engine down in the engine bay.
5.) Install the engine mounts to the engine.
6) Tighten header bolts.
7.) Lower engine onto mounts and install bolts. If you're using a Genesis S.O. block, one mount has to be altered or the engine will set crooked.
One major complaint on the Hooker Super Comps is that the collectors interfere with the floorboard transmission mount. Headers should have been about 1'+ longer and would not have had to grind the collector for clearance.
Hope this helps.
Don
gt350bp
Hey Don, how's it going? I see you switched holes where the hook goes for the hoist. Is that necessary or can you just use the rear on for the whole process? What rocker arms are you using?
Take care and be safe, Roy
Roy,
Had to switch the balance on the engine to get it to set down in correctly.
The 482 was built by Keith Kraft and he suggested TD rockers, stands and shafts, so that is what I am using. The cam is a solid roller and am very happy with the results. Engine runs and sounds great with the solid lifters.
Things have been going pretty well here in the swamp, but after 30 years in Florida, I am getting priced out. Insurances and unbridled coastal growth has me looking for cheaper property back up in Western Pennsylvania. I used to live in a town that was considered the best kept secret, but local politicians have let the growth over run the infrastructure. Traffic nightmares, flooding and new apartments and storage facilities on every available space.
Don
gt350bp
For what it's worth, we just dropped my 428 in with a pair of JBA stainless Tri-Y headers bolted on. Had to remove the heater box/blower motor and the steering box, and it took a few guys to guide it in without beating up the firewall and towers, but it fit. Just in case you want to change headers, the JBAs are nice and don't hang too low underneath either.
Quote from: gt350bp on October 13, 2023, 08:17:01 PM
Roy,
Had to switch the balance on the engine to get it to set down in correctly.
The 482 was built by Keith Kraft and he suggested TD rockers, stands and shafts, so that is what I am using. The cam is a solid roller and am very happy with the results. Engine runs and sounds great with the solid lifters.
Things have been going pretty well here in the swamp, but after 30 years in Florida, I am getting priced out. Insurances and unbridled coastal growth has me looking for cheaper property back up in Western Pennsylvania. I used to live in a town that was considered the best kept secret, but local politicians have let the growth over run the infrastructure. Traffic nightmares, flooding and new apartments and storage facilities on every available space.
Don
gt350bp
I see that in too many places and my city that I have been in for 29 years now is no different. What I don't understand why with all the growth our taxes don't go down?? Instead of woods and farm land it is now 600K to 1 million dollars homes built where there used to be fields so with all that "extra" property taxes on those rezoned subdivisions why have our taxes never gone down? I wonder the same in Florida with all the million dollar condos on the coasts.