Guys,
Building a basic 302, 68 date coded, with basic stock heads.
I will use the 4300 Ford carb, cast intake,stock distributor, triple tree vacuum etc, being built for Ford, SAAC and Italian Invitational use.
I am going to balance the lower end.
I would like a hyd cam that comes on around 2500 and fizzles out around 6.5 K
My buddy Bill mentioned a hyd cam by crane, that has real close specs to a 65-66 shelby cam.
That idle, sound and lope is fine with me,
Want to get it ordered, please voice a few modern day specs you guys think will suit expectations !
last time I built a 289/302 was in mid 1990's, kind of out of touch.
Thank you guys
John
When building my 331 for my FFR, I put this together. The cams here may be a bit on the healthier side. My motor is based on a 1970 302 block, SCAT crank kit, 10.6:1 compression, has the AFR 185 heads and the open plenum Intake, so it's a step up from a K-style build. My Horsepower is around 450.
Look at a roller cam, and use the hydraulic link-bar roller lifters.
Attached is a spreadsheet I made up when selecting my cam. I chose the Howards cam (in yellow), very happy with it, the car has a great idle, and kills inside the power band.
Dan
Dan,
Thanks for the reply.
I never thought about a roller cam, I like that idea.
I am probably best to hang in the 2400- 6000 rpm range for power band.
Will dissect the specs on the cams you included.
Truly appreciate it.
Not sure, but I would think a stock 1968 302 from ford is maybe around 8.5-9 compression ratio.?
Kind of a zoo when going on line on the inner web to look, the manufacturer's make claims, BUT>> I like real life advice and experience.
John
John,
Happy to Provide!!! I too was very wary and unsure when it comes to cam selection. So many choices, manufacturers, and more. Choose the wrong one, it's big work to change.
I made this chart by taking the last cam I had and worked well, and looking at many others in the same range, and built this spread sheet, listed each cam, averaged each column, and then chose one that was closest to the results, and erred on the conservative side.
Also agreed, this exact thread, asking for personal experience is the best way!!
(You could always buy a nice set of Edelbrock alum heads, paint them blue......)
Dan
Go with the tried and true Ford Motorsport aka Ford Racing B-303 hyd roller cam.
Quote from: Cobrask8 on May 12, 2023, 07:45:26 AM
When building my 331 for my FFR, I put this together. The cams here may be a bit on the healthier side. My motor is based on a 1970 302 block, SCAT crank kit, 10.6:1 compression, has the AFR 185 heads and the open plenum Intake, so it's a step up from a K-style build. My Horsepower is around 450.
Look at a roller cam, and use the hydraulic link-bar roller lifters.
Attached is a spreadsheet I made up when selecting my cam. I chose the Howards cam (in yellow), very happy with it, the car has a great idle, and kills inside the power band.
Dan
+1
Quote from: Cobrask8 on May 12, 2023, 10:42:16 AM
John,
Happy to Provide!!! I too was very wary and unsure when it comes to cam selection. So many choices, manufacturers, and more. Choose the wrong one, it's big work to change.
I made this chart by taking the last cam I had and worked well, and looking at many others in the same range, and built this spread sheet, listed each cam, averaged each column, and then chose one that was closest to the results, and erred on the conservative side.
Also agreed, this exact thread, asking for personal experience is the best way!!
(You could always buy a nice set of Edelbrock alum heads, paint them blue......)
Dan
+ 1
Quote from: Harris Speedster on May 12, 2023, 10:22:31 AM
Dan,
Thanks for the reply.
I never thought about a roller cam, I like that idea.
I am probably best to hang in the 2400- 6000 rpm range for power band.
Will dissect the specs on the cams you included.
Truly appreciate it.
Not sure, but I would think a stock 1968 302 from ford is maybe around 8.5-9 compression ratio.?
Kind of a zoo when going on line on the inner web to look, the manufacturer's make claims, BUT>> I like real life advice and experience.
John
If all else fails check the Ford published shop manuals. The 1968 Service Specification manual list the 302 with 9.5:1 for a 2V and 10.5:1 for 4V .
Bob,
I need to do a lot more research about the engine kit I was thinking about buying.
I would hope that their pistons are 10.5 compression
If not, back to the inner web.
Cobrask8, crossboss,
I will go spec to spec and hydraulic rollers/cam.
Would love to really make it a fire breather, alum heads etc, but in this case, it could be a real negative.
Most parts for the Italia stayed packed away
But bell housings and flywheels did not >> A 68 302 4V had a 157 tooth flywheel and a C5 - A bell housing, correct ?
Thanks guys.
John
Quote from: Harris Speedster on May 12, 2023, 02:03:20 PM
Bob,
I need to do a lot more research about the engine kit I was thinking about buying.
I would hope that their pistons are 10.5 compression
If not, back to the inner web.
Cobrask8, crossboss,
I will go spec to spec and hydraulic rollers/cam.
Would love to really make it a fire breather, alum heads etc, but in this case, it could be a real negative.
Most parts for the Italia stayed packed away
But bell housings and flywheels did not >> A 68 302 4V had a 157 tooth flywheel and a C5 - A bell housing, correct ?
Thanks guys.
John
You asked about "a stock 1968 302 from ford" compression ratio and what i posted is what Ford say it is. The 68 302 used a 164 tooth flywheel ,C5AA-6394-B marked 164 tooth bellhousing and special for 164 tooth 4 speed starter. If common automatic or otherwise wrong starter is used on the 164 tooth flywheel tooth damage will result. The starter has what appears to be a longer nose cone when compared to the common automatic version.
Bob,
Thank you, saved me again.
I do have the larger bell housing, it actually has a stud hole built in it for the Z Bar, C5-B
I do have a 164 tooth flywheel, ring gear is dam near as large as the surface of the fly wheel.
I believe a C7 #
Sure glad I mentioned the above.
The 67 Shelby nose C6TF-A is not the same for the 68 Italia 302, is it Bob ?
Trying to sort and not sell something I need >>before I put an ad on SAAC.
Respectfully,
John
Quote from: Harris Speedster on May 12, 2023, 04:00:38 PM
Bob,
Thank you, saved me again.
I do have the larger bell housing, it actually has a stud hole built in it for the Z Bar, C5-B
I do have a 164 tooth flywheel, ring gear is dam near as large as the surface of the fly wheel.
I believe a C7 #
Sure glad I mentioned the above.
The 67 Shelby nose C6TF-A is not the same for the 68 Italia 302, is it Bob ?
Trying to sort and not sell something I need >>before I put an ad on SAAC.
Respectfully,
John
The 67 GT350 starter nose is common for both auto and 4 speed. It was also used 65/66 for auto and 4 speed. The 68 4 speed starter nose is longer when compared to the other. They can be hard to find given fewer applications.
Thanks Bob.
John
I will try and dig one out to show a picture .It's on the to do list. ;)
I dug out all my old starters.
Two have a thicker/wider shoulder that but up against the starter case.
The other 5 are much thinner where the nose buts up to the starter case.
I would guess that is what you are referring to Bob ?
John
Quote from: Harris Speedster on May 12, 2023, 09:41:07 PM
I dug out all my old starters.
Two have a thicker/wider shoulder that but up against the starter case.
The other 5 are much thinner where the nose buts up to the starter case.
I would guess that is what you are referring to Bob ?
John
The one on the bottom is 68 302 4 speed. The top is for 68 auto.
Bob,
Thank you !
The picture tells the story.
The wider section that butts up to the front nose is what I refereed to in my last post.
It truly is confusing, but that wider area from the starter case on the nose is a good way to identify.
This greatly helps me to sort Coopers parts and my own.
Your the magic man !
John
Back in the late 70's at Mostly Mustangs In Oakland California, we put a Sig Erson TQ10 hyd in a fairly tired 68 coupe and couldn't believe how strong it ran. That thing could barely get out of its own way before the change. I'm sure the new plugs, wires and carb rebuild had a lot to do with it also. Would burn rubber with no trouble. Don't remember how high it would rev. Here's the specs from online if you want to look for something similar.
Roy