SAAC Forum

The Cars => 1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H => Topic started by: 6T6SHELBY on June 27, 2018, 02:21:45 PM

Title: Correct header finish
Post by: 6T6SHELBY on June 27, 2018, 02:21:45 PM
How do you tell the difference between original and repo headers. Also what is the proper finish they should have.

Thanks!!!!
Title: Re: Correct header finish
Post by: Bob Gaines on June 27, 2018, 02:43:18 PM
Quote from: 6T6SHELBY on June 27, 2018, 02:21:45 PM
How do you tell the difference between original and repo headers. Also what is the proper finish they should have.

Thanks!!!!
The differance in the shape of the flange , the opening and how it is welded. They were painted black from the factory. That is what comes to mind . I will others fill in the blanks. I'm typing on phone keyboard.
Title: Re: Correct header finish
Post by: kingchief on June 27, 2018, 03:26:18 PM
Photos are always good!

Thanks,

Steve
Title: Re: Correct header finish
Post by: gt350hr on June 27, 2018, 04:52:17 PM
  IMHO "only" , few originals exist today unless they have been off of the car for many years like my originals. Off for 43 years. At last count 30+ companies have remade them  Few (only one I can think of ) is good enough to be considered as correct as an original. Others "look" the same at the initial glance but as Bob mentioned , flanges ( at the head) + collector flanges and their clocking , tubing weld joints and many other things are different. Some do not fit without "persuasion" from a ball peen hammer.The headers were "mass produced" in batches by Cyclone Automotive back in the day and there are some  minor variations from batch to batch but are still easy to spot against a reproduction except for the one I alluded to. Black VHT header paint ( which had a semi gloss to it) was used "back in the day". IF the pipe got to hot , the paint would change color to a chalky white color right off of the head flange and fade back to black where less heat was present.
      Randy

    Other opinions are welcomed.
Title: Re: Correct header finish
Post by: J_Speegle on June 27, 2018, 06:21:50 PM
Quote from: kingchief on June 27, 2018, 03:26:18 PM
Photos are always good!

Here are a few to assist with the discussion. Labeled each so discussing/referencing a particular one is easier ;)

Header #1
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/10/6-270618181718.jpeg)


Header #2
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/10/6-270618181855.jpeg)


Header #3
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/10/6-270618181919.jpeg)


Header #4
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/10/6-270618181956.jpeg)


Header #5
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/10/6-270618182016.jpeg)


Header #6
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/10/6-270618182053.jpeg)
Title: Re: Correct header finish
Post by: kingchief on July 05, 2018, 01:59:23 PM
Thanks Jeff for the swell photos.

Steve
Title: Re: Correct header finish
Post by: gt350hr on July 05, 2018, 03:59:48 PM
  Study Jeff's killer pictures carefully. Mass quantity hand fabricated parts have certain "nuances" often over looked by replicators. The original Cyclone tubes were swedged to a rectangular form on a forming machine , not by hand which would have slowed down production and caused fitment irregularities as well. The cuts were done in a jig as well. "Production"parts must be consistent or they don't fit the weldment jigs . If the headers vary , they don't fit the cars. The forming , welding , bolt clearance work is almost like a fingerprint. A guy who built them back then could ID his work from a co worker's , they were that good.
   Randy