What is the correct black sleeve material and wall thickness to use to replicate that period in the 1967 production run when a black tubing was applied over engine bay wiring harnesses?
How far from the connector ends of the harnesses should the tubing be terminated?
Quote from: nightmist67 on April 18, 2018, 04:40:28 PM
What is the correct black sleeve material and wall thickness to use to replicate that period in the 1967 production run when a black tubing was applied over engine bay wiring harnesses?
How far from the connector ends of the harnesses should the tubing be terminated?
I have never identified the exact material used on the amp gauge harness maybe others have. I know as a alternate you can take a larger diameter heat shrink tube and shrink it down so that it is a comparable thickness. FYI on a car that had the sheath on the amp gauge harness in the engine compartment, it would typically have the sheath covering the SA tail light harness wires also.
Define what harnesses. Ford did not change the production Mustang harnesses with any tubing. They did use a wire wrap that did not have any sticky/glue on one side (like electrical tape has). Ford did, or S/A did: unwrapped the section down where the splices for the high beam Scotch slices where.
But, do you mean the late cars that had the tubing for just the ammeter wires that go from the junction block to inside the car to the gauges?
There are a few different places that use "tubing".
The door lower grill lights use a tube that is visible when you open the door. There are some repops that have the wrong rubber plug in the jamb/door area. These tubes are replaceable, but it's difficult.
The rear taillights in mid numbered cars, like mine, have two different diameters of tubing on the Shelby section of the modified taillight assemblies.
My center headlights use tubing to surround the two wires.
And certain cars have tubing around the amp portion of the "engine" wire harness.
Quote from: Bossbill on April 20, 2018, 08:18:55 PM
There are a few different places that use "tubing".
The door lower grill lights use a tube that is visible when you open the door. There are some repops that have the wrong rubber plug in the jamb/door area. These tubes are replaceable, but it's difficult.
The rear taillights in mid numbered cars, like mine, have two different diameters of tubing on the Shelby section of the modified taillight assemblies.
My center headlights use tubing to surround the two wires.
And certain cars have tubing around the amp portion of the "engine" wire harness.
The Shelby's that used the tubing on the Shelby added harness typically used the tubing on all three harnesses at the same time. The only inconsistency I have noted has been seeing some of the center headlight harness without the tubing while the amp and taillight did. It is more typical however that all three harnesses used the tubing during the period in production when the tubing was employed. Just my observations.
This stuff is perfect and inexpensive:
http://www.cycleterminal.com/sleeve-tubing.html#
I ordered the VW-1 semigloss in 3 different sizes, I think it was #6 #8 #10
It's pretty much exactly like the original tubing. The markings are easily removed.
Are there any photos that provide details of the locations where the sleeve material was used?
Quote from: 67350#1242 on April 20, 2018, 10:22:08 PM
This stuff is perfect and inexpensive:
http://www.cycleterminal.com/sleeve-tubing.html#
I ordered the VW-1 semigloss in 3 different sizes, I think it was #6 #8 #10
It's pretty much exactly like the original tubing. The markings are easily removed.
+1
I found that site a few months back -- the size and wall thickness were right on.
The 50 year stock tubing is really stiff.
Other things came up and I didn't get around to ordering it, but I'm glad to hear it works!
I just restored my backup light switch and found that the stock (appearing) wires leading to the switch are also sleeved.