Okay,
I'd typically have the shop do suspension/steering work, but because I'm not presently home in California and the car is in New York I decided to do a number of projects like replace the steering box with the correct HCC AX that Jim Cowles (RIP) rebuilt for me.
So, I've since pulled the engine/trans etc and I'm now to the point of separating the steering arm from the center link. If I used a pickle fork (ball joint separator) I'll ruin the rubber seal. Are there replacement seals? I've screwed on a nut onto the threads and attempted to hit it with a hammer and not damage the threads. Maybe I'm not hitting it hard enough?
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
~Earl J
sometimes this style separator can work if you're careful ...
I recently was taking apart the steering stuff. Also had a hard time beating them like crazy. I finally used a steering wheel puller that looks like JD's tie rod removal separator and it worked. Rubber seals are readily available from Virginia Classic Mustang. I just did not like the idea of the pickle fork. Looked to violent!!!
Cleaned all the parts and now putting everything back together today.
Cheers,
Steve
I bought one of these - works great for tie rods and pitman arms with no damage:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
I used a torch to heat up the area for a minute or two then gave s whack with reversed nut on top like you and it popped out. Just control where you direct the flame.
I did this and borrowed a tool from Pep Boys that was made specifically for that. It worked great and was free.
Corey
I too bought this tool and must say it's probably the best $30 I ever spent at HF.
Quote from: 67350#1242 on April 21, 2021, 09:42:20 AM
I bought one of these - works great for tie rods and pitman arms with no damage:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
Quote from: JD on April 21, 2021, 08:57:42 AM
sometimes this style separator can work if you're careful ...
The one JD shows is the one I use so as to not damage boots and seals . I sometimes add a add a screw clamp around the gripping jaws to keep them from slipping off while tightening.
Well, after running my errands looking for a tool that would work I ended up buying the one that 67350#1242 and Royce Peterson recommended. I have a couple other pullers similar to JD's but the jaws just don't seem to get a good enough grip under the arm. I did contemplate heating the area around the arm the threaded pin, but first wrapping the seal with aluminum foil to protect the rubber, then to expand the metal.
I'll let you know what avenue I took. Thanks for the suggestions
Cheers,
~Earl J
Quote from: SFM5S000 on April 21, 2021, 03:32:05 PM
Well, after running my errands looking for a tool that would work I ended up buying the one that 67350#1242 and Royce Peterson recommended. I have a couple other pullers similar to JD's but the jaws just don't seem to get a good enough grip under the arm. I did contemplate heating the area around the arm the threaded pin, but first wrapping the seal with aluminum foil to protect the rubber, then to expand the metal.
I'll let you know what avenue I took. Thanks for the suggestions
Cheers,
~Earl J
Keeping the jaws from jumping off was why I added the screw band clamp around the outside of both arms to hold them in place. I don't typically have to add the band screw clamp but on larger things . I have not used the other one so I can't comment on if better ,worse or the same. If anyone has a picture of that one mounted ready to do its job I would love to see it.
Bob, there are a few videos online with people using the HF separator. One nice thing about it is that it can be used in tight places. As with any tool you have to follow a few principles to avoid ruining the tool or hurting yourself. A couple key points that may be obvious: 1. Oil the tool threads before use. 2. Leave the nut partially threaded on the joint to avoid stuff flying away. 3. Use hand wrench not air wrench so you can feel the tension. 4. It works best to just tighten fairly snug then rap the area where stud passes through with a hammer until it pops. Don't try to make the tool do all the work.
Some people have had to grind the fork area a little wider to slip over thicker studs but you should be able to slide the fork end fully in to the area between boot and steering arm or drag link before tightening.
Kurt.
Quote from: 67350#1242 on April 21, 2021, 05:33:28 PM
Bob, there are a few videos online with people using the HF separator. One nice thing about it is that it can be used in tight places. As with any tool you have to follow a few principles to avoid ruining the tool or hurting yourself. A couple key points that may be obvious: 1. Oil the tool threads before use. 2. Leave the nut partially threaded on the joint to avoid stuff flying away. 3. Use hand wrench not air wrench so you can feel the tension. 4. It works best to just tighten fairly snug then rap the area where stud passes through with a hammer until it pops. Don't try to make the tool do all the work.
Some people have had to grind the fork area a little wider to slip over thicker studs but you should be able to slide the fork end fully in to the area between boot and steering arm or drag link before tightening.
Kurt.
OK went right to it on YouTube. After watching the video I have to say I will not be purchasing the tool. I think the job can be done better with less risk with other tools . To each their own . For me I would be concerned with beating and marring a spindle to get a ball joint off and or tearing a boot along with the effort to get the job done. For a car that a person didn't care if that happened to then that is a inexpensive tool to use if you had to go and buy something. I use a different tool for the ball joints and I use the tool like JD posted for pitman and tie rods. Coincidently I am getting ready to work on tie rods and ball joints and will take some pictures of what I use and post within the next day or so.
This tool doesn't do any of that Bob. It's a wonderful thing! I have not watched the videos, only used the tool for several years.
Pulls things like pitman arms from the steering link, ball joints, tie rods with ease.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 21, 2021, 06:34:56 PM
Quote from: 67350#1242 on April 21, 2021, 05:33:28 PM
Bob, there are a few videos online with people using the HF separator. One nice thing about it is that it can be used in tight places. As with any tool you have to follow a few principles to avoid ruining the tool or hurting yourself. A couple key points that may be obvious: 1. Oil the tool threads before use. 2. Leave the nut partially threaded on the joint to avoid stuff flying away. 3. Use hand wrench not air wrench so you can feel the tension. 4. It works best to just tighten fairly snug then rap the area where stud passes through with a hammer until it pops. Don't try to make the tool do all the work.
Some people have had to grind the fork area a little wider to slip over thicker studs but you should be able to slide the fork end fully in to the area between boot and steering arm or drag link before tightening.
Kurt.
OK went right to it on YouTube. After watching the video I have to say I will not be purchasing the tool. I think the job can be done better with less risk with other tools . To each their own . For me I would be concerned with beating and marring a spindle to get a ball joint off and or tearing a boot along with the effort to get the job done. For a car that a person didn't care if that happened to then that is a inexpensive tool to use if you had to go and buy something. I use a different tool for the ball joints and I use the tool like JD posted for pitman and tie rods. Coincidently I am getting ready to work on tie rods and ball joints and will take some pictures of what I use and post within the next day or so.
QuoteThis tool doesn't do any of that Bob. It's a wonderful thing! I have not watched the videos, only used the tool for several years.
Pulls things like pitman arms from the steering link, ball joints, tie rods with ease.
That has been my experience as well - most of the time it isn't necessary to use hammer at all or a pretty light tap will work - not enough to mar surface.
Most of the dopes on U Tube aren't using it correctly - I love it.
Kurt
Well, good news! That tool from HF I bought worked like a charm. It was on sale too $19.99. I'd highly recommend that thing. It was too easy, it startled me with a "pop" the arm separating from the centerlink and the tool falling to the floor. Lol
Thank you everyone. Bob G you need one of these.
Now to take off that steering arm. Where's that 1 1/8 socket?
Thanks Guys.
Cheers
~Earl J
I took mine apart on the car with limited room so I made this. Uses a 9/16 bolt.
(https://i.imgur.com/VGpAOALh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GP59KRuh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/R9rxsFOh.jpg)
I just got done separating a spindle from the tie rod end and the upper and lower ball joints. It was very easy given the tools. The tool to pop the tie rod or pitman loose is self explanatory. It allows the boot or seal to stay intact. When using the tool to separate the ball joints you pop off one at a time . And they do pop when they come loose. You take the nut off the one side to pop loose and leaving the nut with just a couple threads above the nut showing on the other ball joint . The long hex portion has a small recess to couple with the few threads sticking up above the top of the nut. That way the one without a nut has the room to give and move while the one that has the nut left partially on is fixed . The bearing side is what you turn to tighten and pop the ball joint loose. The long hex stock is there to put a wrench on to hold that portion stationary. The spreading action of the tool pushes against one to pop the other loose. You reverse the procedure to get the other ball joint loose. No damage to the boot threads or need to mar the spindle. It couldn't be much easier. I bought the ball joint tool many years ago and can't remember where I got it. However if you can't find something similar it is a pretty simple design so it could made relatively easily.
Here are some other pics
Speedway Motors has a similar tool to the one you are using between the spindle ball joints. This looks like a good way to go when removing the larger upper and lower ball joints.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wehrs-Machine-WM130-S-Ball-Joint-Remover-Speedway-Spindle,423373.html
I have one of those. Have not used it since getting the HF tool. You need one Bob, perfect for that job. If there's a video showing a hammer it's not helpful since no hammer is needed. I use mine with an electric 1/2 drive impact.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 21, 2021, 11:59:02 PM
I just got done separating a spindle from the tie rod end and the upper and lower ball joints. It was very easy given the tools. The tool to pop the tie rod or pitman loose is self explanatory. It allows the boot or seal to stay intact. When using the tool to separate the ball joints you pop off one at a time . And they do pop when they come loose. You take the nut off the one side to pop loose and leaving the nut with just a couple threads above the nut showing on the other ball joint . The long hex portion has a small recess to couple with the few threads sticking up above the top of the nut. That way the one without a nut has the room to give and move while the one that has the nut left partially on is fixed . The bearing side is what you turn to tighten and pop the ball joint loose. The long hex stock is there to put a wrench on to hold that portion stationary. The spreading action of the tool pushes against one to pop the other loose. You reverse the procedure to get the other ball joint loose. No damage to the boot threads or need to mar the spindle. It couldn't be much easier. I bought the ball joint tool many years ago and can't remember where I got it. However if you can't find something similar it is a pretty simple design so it could made relatively easily.