Has anyone done this? Looks rather difficult, I can't figure out how/if you can get the black patterned section off to send the bare part off to the platers, maybe it's not possible?
I did manage to get the radio button "pre-set station" function working today, but it was half a days work.....and now I have to get it back together.
I believe the black was added after the chroming, so "Yes" the black will need to be removed and re-done after being re-plated.
There is a reissue of the original bezel from original tooling
Please keep us posted on your results if you decide to rechrome.
Quote from: Coralsnake on December 07, 2020, 10:20:29 AM
There is a reissue of the original bezel from original tooling
There is a 67 and a 68 version of the bezal . It has to do with the contour of the edge . There is a C7 and a C8 version .I am under the impression that the repro was of the 68 version.
This will be a difficult piece to re-chrome properly. The pebbled surface will most likely end up distorted. Would be curious to see the results if re-chrome option is taken.
Thanks for the responses gents.
I'm still figuring out what to do but I don't believe I can get the black stipled finish off without likely ruining it.
The only way I can think to retain the original piece is to try refinishing it with spray chrome.
On balance I would rather have the original piece with spray chrome than a repro piece with proper chrome, but only if the spray chrome looked the part.
My bezel is marked cav no2 while the repro is marked no1, does anyone know what this means?
Thank you.
Quote from: Jack4159 on December 10, 2020, 08:11:07 PM
Thanks for the responses gents.
I'm still figuring out what to do but I don't believe I can get the black stipled finish off without likely ruining it.
The only way I can think to retain the original piece is to try refinishing it with spray chrome.
On balance I would rather have the original piece with spray chrome than a repro piece with proper chrome, but only if the spray chrome looked the part.
My bezel is marked cav no2 while the repro is marked no1, does anyone know what this means?
Thank you.
...maybe injection molded multiple parts at a time and that denotes which cavity the part came out of...just a thought.
How bad is the chrome on your original? An SOS pad can do wonders in some instances. You can always repaint the black area if needed. Another direction you can take is to look for a nice used one with the same markings as yours. There are still some very nice originals available at reasonable prices. I'll take a look in my "inventory" to see what I have.
Craig R.
Quote from: SHELB66 on December 10, 2020, 11:06:45 PM
How bad is the chrome on your original? An SOS pad can do wonders in some instances. You can always repaint the black area if needed. Another direction you can take is to look for a nice used one with the same markings as yours. There are still some very nice originals available at reasonable prices. I'll take a look in my "inventory" to see what I have.
Craig R.
Thanks Craig,
That may be the best option.My chrome is in pretty good shape but has pitting or whatever the term is for the little raised blemishes/pimples.The rest of it is in perfect shape.
What is the reason not to consider reply number 2 ?
Mr Gaines, I can offer advice from a dozen national championships, I (we) can not force people to take it. 😀
Quote from: Coralsnake on December 15, 2020, 10:34:45 AM
Mr Gaines, I can offer advice from a dozen national championships, I (we) can not force people to take it. 😀
I agree . ::)
Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 15, 2020, 10:11:41 AM
What is the reason not to consider reply number 2 ?
Well any advice from Pete will of course be the correct and sensible way to go and I'm really appreciative.
I seem to have developed a "keep everything" mentality, so for example all the chrome trim pieces where possible in and on the car are being re-chromed, whereas I could replace them and save quite a few dollars. This is probably stupid behaviour but it wouldn't be my first time.
I just like the idea of cruising along or maybe washing the car, looking around and knowing that most of what I'm seeing was made way back in 1968 and has survived all that time, this is just a personal thing.
I understand the repro from original tooling must be absolutely fine for judging if Pete recommends it but this car will likely never be judged, so my preference for a period replacement is just personal. If that wasn't possible then I'd be up for the repro no problem.
I apologise if it seemed I was not receptive to what is clearly the best of advice re restoration, that's certainly not the case, I'm very grateful for the time freely given.
Quote from: Jack4159 on December 15, 2020, 08:38:08 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 15, 2020, 10:11:41 AM
What is the reason not to consider reply number 2 ?
Well any advice from Pete will of course be the correct and sensible way to go and I'm really appreciative.
I seem to have developed a "keep everything" mentality, so for example all the chrome trim pieces where possible in and on the car are being re-chromed, whereas I could replace them and save quite a few dollars. This is probably stupid behaviour but it wouldn't be my first time.
I just like the idea of cruising along or maybe washing the car, looking around and knowing that most of what I'm seeing was made way back in 1968 and has survived all that time, this is just a personal thing.
I understand the repro from original tooling must be absolutely fine for judging if Pete recommends it but this car will likely never be judged, so my preference for a period replacement is just personal. If that wasn't possible then I'd be up for the repro no problem.
I apologise if it seemed I was not receptive to what is clearly the best of advice re restoration, that's certainly not the case, I'm very grateful for the time freely given.
You may also run into the same originality sentiment dilemma when it comes to things like belts ,hose's ,battery,battery cables,tires,shocks exhaust ,headlight bulbs etc. It is a noble ambition . Given your expectations you may want to inquire if not for sure on which battles to fight and which to compromise on. This forum is a good place to ask.
Thank you Bob I appreciate that advice and you are spot on, I have some decisions exercising my mind which you, Pete and the myriad of others here will be able to direct me, I guess I need to be a little more pragmatic...thank you for the re-set.
I'm not trying to restore to concours but am mindful that in 5 yrs or so maybe I will have the time and mindset to do that, so trying to avoid major blunders I guess.
1)CARPETS-mine are in good serviceable shape(except the console)-deep clean and re-dye or just buy new?
2)FASTENERS/BOLTS-just buy the AMK kits,interior, body and chassis, or be selective and save the best of what I have?
3)ROOF LINER-mine is in very good shape but probably a bit faded, buy new for about $50- or stick with the original?
4)DASH- I have a NOS bezel so d.side sorted,but do I replace rh side of dash with repro? Or spend time trying to resurrect the original, the woodgrain is shot and tough to get off.
5)SHELBY CONSOLE-I've totally stripped the woodgrain effect off, is vinyl the best way to replace this?
6)HURST SHIFTER-the car has a hurst shifter but also came with what appears to be the original lever, knob and linkage from Ford/Shelby.Is the Hurst shifter so much better I leave it there?Or switch back?
7)Dynamat or similar-good idea or a no no?
8)Car is just out of the blasters and the paint guys are starting to ask me questions, they are keen to get it right.But we are in an isolated part of Australia so local first hand info is scant.I am searching high and low and they have Pete's paint page which is extremely helpful, are there any other good sources that helps re paint,sealer?
Thank you all.
I would always try to reuse/rehabilitate original parts if possible .
That goes for hardware as well. AMK is a good option, but I feel you should select the hardware you need and buy the pieces individually as opposed to the kits. It gives you more control over the specific designs.
Other factors include what you will be using car for in the future. If you want a pure oem car and you are not going to drive it, that's different from building something that will be used with some frequency.
If you do make modifications to the original configuration, I think its in your best interest to keep to a minimum and make sure they are easily reversible. I personally would steer clear of Dynamat or similar products that could potentially trap moisture.
The dash and console are tricky parts of a 1968 restoration. Its difficult to get them correct. The cheap vinyl never looks the same or sticks as well. There are not a lot of good solutions.
The original shifter was Ford, not Hurst.
You may already know - If ordering the individual kits note that AMK has minimum order amounts. This may not be a problem if your doing the whole car. But NPD does sell many of AMK individual kits.
Another option for the bezel and any other dash items. I've used instrument Specialties twice with exceptional results.
https://www.instrument-specialties.com/services/plastic-chrome-bezels/
They do good work. What was your experience with the turn around times?
Also note poster is in Australia, so options may be limited
Quote from: Coralsnake on December 16, 2020, 09:24:12 AM
They do good work. What was your experience with the turn around times?
Also note poster is in Australia, so options may be limited
To be honest turn around times were not speedy, but given it was toward the end of the year (Christmas & New Years) and they admitted they were swamped with work at the time. It took three month's to receive my items back, the finished work was excellent and well worth the wait.
That was light speed compared to some of my experiences. I was very satisfied, but the turn around times became a non starter for me.
Quote from: Coralsnake on December 16, 2020, 07:35:08 AM
I would always try to reuse/rehabilitate original parts if possible .
That goes for hardware as well. AMK is a good option, but I feel you should select the hardware you need and buy the pieces individually as opposed to the kits. It gives you more control over the specific designs.
Other factors include what you will be using car for in the future. If you want a pure oem car and you are not going to drive it, that's different from building something that will be used with some frequency.
If you do make modifications to the original configuration, I think its in your best interest to keep to a minimum and make sure they are easily reversible. I personally would steer clear of Dynamat or similar products that could potentially trap moisture.
The dash and console are tricky parts of a 1968 restoration. Its difficult to get them correct. The cheap vinyl never looks the same or sticks as well. There are not a lot of good solutions.
The original shifter was Ford, not Hurst.
Thanks Pete, appreciate the advice and direction, will stick with oem where possible and put the Ford shifter back in.
Quote from: CSX 4133 on December 16, 2020, 09:15:30 AM
Another option for the bezel and any other dash items. I've used instrument Specialties twice with exceptional results.
https://www.instrument-specialties.com/services/plastic-chrome-bezels/
Thanks for the tip, i will definately consider this option.
Quote from: JD on December 16, 2020, 08:47:04 AM
You may already know - If ordering the individual kits note that AMK has minimum order amounts. This may not be a problem if your doing the whole car. But NPD does sell many of AMK individual kits.
Ok good to know, thank you.