All,
Is there a source for correct quarter panel extension hardware? The AMK product Is a gold plating, original sink plated-
Thanks for any help,
Dave
Not sink ! Zinc...
Not that I'm aware of, I usually have originals re-plated.
Quote from: DRGT350 on December 03, 2020, 10:54:42 PM
All,
Is there a source for correct quarter panel extension hardware? The AMK product Is a gold plating, original sink plated-
Thanks for any help,
Dave
FYI in doing the gold dichromate process the nut has to be plated zinc silver first. Then it is dipped in the dichromate which looks gold when it comes out. So if you put a little mild acid the gold will come off and expose the silver underneath. Not the answer every time but sometimes it gets you by.
thanks Charles and Bob -
I'll try both and see which turns out the best...
Dave
The 65 (and I am not sure if all 66) had the flat washer without the serrated edges.
Bob and Charles - one more question on this - We read in the assembly manual that the extensions were on the car when the car was painted at Ford originally (loose) - so should these nuts have white paint overspray on them?
Again - many thanks -
Dave
Sometimes/usually see one nut with overspray as it was used to secure the car on the car, but there was most likely washers or a spacer to hold the quarter extension out slightly. Jeff S. probably has many examples.
Quote from: DRGT350 on December 04, 2020, 12:31:40 PM
Bob and Charles - one more question on this - We read in the assembly manual that the extensions were on the car when the car was painted at Ford originally (loose) - so should these nuts have white paint overspray on them?.........
Guess we're discussing 68 NJ cars marked to be Shelby's since the answer depends on year and car. Do I have that correct?
jeff -
this is for a 65 gt 350 -
Dave
thanks Jeff -
Sorry saw 65 but in my head I was still on 68 for some reason
At San Jose in 65 they did installed the end caps part way (spaced out from the body about 3/8- 1/2 inch one could guess) producing typically a shadow behind on the end of the quarter panel filler panel.
Assembly manuals often do not reflect what the factories and workers did just what Ford engineers thought they should. Please don't build a car based solely on the manuals. We've seen those and they don't look like real examples
NOTE: For others reading this make sure your match matches the same specific details (when and where the car was built) before you consider applying what follows. Details are different even at the same plant in other production years or even periods such as weeks or months in some cases
As mentioned the end caps were installed prior to the exterior color being applied to the trunk and exterior Painters did not always take the time to turn the spray gun backwards and get paint in all the unseen corners of the trunk - in fact they apparently rarely did if ever. For 65 it appears (evidence on some unrestored cars) that the sealer was applied on the mounting studs - guessing this helped hold them in place during the painting process. This also held the end caps away from the body approx 1/2" allowing the paint to wrap around the end cap and the end of the panels it attached to. You can see paint shadows on the body when you remove end caps on original paint cars.
You can find at times evidence of paint on the sealer on some cars but often the installation of the nuts and washers deformed and smashed the sealer (rolling it some what) so that the layer fell off or rolled so it would not be see. Also as a result of these practices the ends (studs) would have a coat of paint on them if the painter got the paint to the sheet metal around it - basically, like other areas it has to make sense. Now the paint would have been stripped from the threads when the nuts were installed leaving, sometimes paint only on the long tip without threads . On some examples the end cap may have not been pushed on as much or the sealer greater in each hole which may have protected the stud from any paint getting on the tip and threads.
I've posted some examples from around the time period (not real close this time but representations of the practices of the time and plant
Hope this helps
No paint on the studs since too light of paint application
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/14/6-041220194451.jpeg)
Paint on the tips here - lot more paint in the area
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/14/6-041220194435.jpeg)
Mix in the area - Not easy to see
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/14/6-041220194529.jpeg)
Painted tips
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/14/6-041220194420.jpeg)
No paint on tips
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/14/6-041220194510.jpeg)
If it were mine I would do the painted tip in areas where there was paint on the interior of the trunk around the attachment point
Hope this helps - sorry for being long. Just trying to cover all the angles and possibilities truthfully
The nice thing about those AMK repro nuts are you can remove the black disc sealer and apply to an original re-plated nut. It will squeeze out when tightened like in Jeff's pics.
Agreed
I would also think that the studs would have body color along with a single nut.
Quote from: Rbwiii on December 04, 2020, 09:41:42 PM
Agreed
I would also think that the studs would have body color along with a single nut.
The single painted nut is something more often found on 66 production San Jose cars from what I've collected the past thirty years. I see by looking at your prior post that is the year Shelby you have. Plenty of differences between the two years even at the same plant
As the pictures show not all paint jobs got the paint applied to the area around where the stud popped through so they would not have any reason to have paint and on the ones were there is paint around the stud and sometimes visible on the sealant they sealant may have protected.
Just sharing unrestored cars. Have more since this is a Mustang detail not a Shelby only thing
Quote from: CharlesTurner on December 04, 2020, 09:29:52 PM
The nice thing about those AMK repro nuts are you can remove the black disc sealer and apply to an original re-plated nut. It will squeeze out when tightened like in Jeff's pics.
Might even work better if you applied a coat of wax (paraffin or car) to the back side of the washer so the sealant would slide and spread with ease
Quote from: J_Speegle on December 04, 2020, 09:49:33 PM
Might even work better if you applied a coat of wax (paraffin or car) to the back side of the washer so the sealant would slide and spread with ease
No need, it squishes out just like original.
Thank you Jeff for the great detailed information, ! Appreciate it.
Dave