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SAAC Forum => SAAC Forum Discussion Area => Topic started by: roddster on November 30, 2020, 10:31:46 AM

Title: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: roddster on November 30, 2020, 10:31:46 AM
  This is going in my 67 clone so take it easy eh?  428 with a C-6  (That is NOT changing), It'll be a cruiser, not a race car.
   Kind of the plan: 3:50 gears, all new bearings, equa-lock center section with 31 spline side gears, new Moser axles.
   Not locked on the 3:50 gears, don't want to do 3:89 or 4:11's
   Summit sells the Yukon type center section.  It has the rebuildable plates for the equal lock.
  OK, suggestions welcome
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: Krelboyne on November 30, 2020, 10:40:34 AM
Equa-lock? No, you want a Detroit Tru-Trac.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: Royce Peterson on November 30, 2020, 10:49:00 AM
Personally I prefer a Detroit Locker because they are quiet, maintenance free, and don't require a friction modifier. The Equa Lock was retired by Ford after 1967 model year because they just wear out too fast. The 4 pinion Traction Lock came about in 1968 and was slightly better but not much.

I really think the Equa Lock is marginal if you have a small block. With a 428 it's not any good.

Quote from: roddster on November 30, 2020, 10:31:46 AM
  This is going in my 67 clone so take it easy eh?  428 with a C-6  (That is NOT changing), It'll be a cruiser, not a race car.
   Kind of the plan: 3:50 gears, all new bearings, equa-lock center section with 31 spline side gears, new Moser axles.
   Not locked on the 3:50 gears, don't want to do 3:89 or 4:11's
   Summit sells the Yukon type center section.  It has the rebuildable plates for the equal lock.
  OK, suggestions welcome
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: 2112 on November 30, 2020, 11:01:25 AM
Do they make a Torsen for a 9"?

I think they are considered the best by most road racers.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: roddster on November 30, 2020, 11:15:19 AM
  I had a Detroit Locker in my former 66 Mustang.  Didn't like it, so, no way on a locker.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: Rukiddin on November 30, 2020, 12:18:27 PM
I agree with Royce.....The Detroit Locker made recently is quiet and ultra reliable. You probably had the early DL that had a rough ratchet on corners. Then again,if just cruising and staying off the gas (yeah,right) go with Ford Trac-Loc . You won't break it with an auto trans
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: gt350hr on November 30, 2020, 12:21:43 PM
  No such thing as a 9" 31 spline "equa lock" , ALL "clutch type" 9" 31 spline units were Traction locks , built after '67.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: Kent on November 30, 2020, 12:51:47 PM
I think Ford Racing had a Torsen for 9" and I had one in a 8.8" and believe me that was the best differential I ever had for drifting, cornering and accelerating also 1/4 mile was great with the torsen.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: Kent on November 30, 2020, 12:52:37 PM
https://torsen.com/product/ford-9-31-spline-t1/
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: 2112 on November 30, 2020, 01:05:16 PM
Quote from: Kent on November 30, 2020, 12:52:37 PM
https://torsen.com/product/ford-9-31-spline-t1/

Thanks for that Link. I have a Torsen in a different GT500 (8.8 rear) and it is incredible at putting power to the pavement coming out of a turn.

Zero noise, ratcheting or any other issues.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: vtgt500 on November 30, 2020, 01:47:07 PM
Quote from: roddster on November 30, 2020, 10:31:46 AM
     Summit sells the Yukon type center section.  It has the rebuildable plates for the equal lock.
  OK, suggestions welcome


Understand Yukon product is made in India.  It is a fair value for the price.  But I wouldn't put their stuff in my vehicle if you gave it to me.  My firm does business with Mark Williams Enterprises.  In my experience it is the best engineered and manufactured Ford 9" vendor.  Voice of experience, a Detroit Locker can be dicey on slippery pavement.  Good reference in Carroll Smith's book, Engineer To Win.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: 2112 on November 30, 2020, 02:22:53 PM
That Torsen direct site is new. From their info page;

Welcome to Torsen®. Since 1984, we've provided class-leading helical gear, torque-sensing differentials to premiere auto manufacturers. From the military AM General HMMWV to Audi Quattro sedans and SUVs, Torsen differentials provide the traction and handling that you need. Enthusiasts will recognize the advantages, with respected performance cars like spec-series Miatas, the Mustang Boss 302, and the recent Chevrolet Camaro Z/28 all running Torsen® products.

Our seamless operation integrates flawlessly with modern electronic chassis control systems, like traction and stability controls, as well as anti-lock braking. That means that your chassis systems work less often, with less intrusive behavior, and the overall experience is even better. Safety, performance & reliability – progress requires traction, and that is what we deliver.


Mine is the Ford Factory installed unit.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: 1109RWHP on November 30, 2020, 07:37:31 PM
I took out a NASCAR version Detroit Locker and put a Detroit Truetrac in my 9". Much smoother than any Detroit locker street or NASCAR version.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: Royce Peterson on December 01, 2020, 08:58:45 AM
Nascar racers use the H series Detroit Lockers which are quite harsh and noisy, much like what Ford used from 1970 - 71. The ones made after 1979 or so have a different locking pawl assembly and spring. So any regular series Detroit locker made in the last 40 or so years is quiet and smooth.

Stay away from the used H series Detroit Lockers they are often for sale on eBay for $250 or thereabouts as Nascar take offs. The Nascar boys replace the axles, bearings and differentials every race.



Quote from: 1109RWHP on November 30, 2020, 07:37:31 PM
I took out a NASCAR version Detroit Locker and put a Detroit Truetrac in my 9". Much smoother than any Detroit locker street or NASCAR version.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: gt350hr on December 01, 2020, 10:47:14 AM
  There are also "special" Nascar "left turn" lockers made for easier disengagement on a left turn. Those should be avoided too. An H case locker "works " fine , BUT you must change to the 3.250 bearing , aftermarket , case.  The noise and harshness of an H case locker can be changed by the use of lighter tension springs in a street application. The MAJOR benefit of the H style locker is the "hubs" where the bearings ride are FAR stronger eliminating breakage of the ring gear side hub and or spinning the bearing on that side. This IS and has been a problem with B ( normal) case lockers and earlier "small bearing" units . I've had 30 or more ruined that way. Ford "used" to sell an empty 31 spline locker case and I saved most of them that way.
  Randy
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: roddster on December 02, 2020, 12:26:50 PM
  Just read the Torson information and the 2 user posts, so, I'll put that as a maybe.  On my former 66 with the Detroit locker, it was kind of unsettling in a corner.  Seemed like somebody was pushing and releasing thier push while you are going around a corner.  Didn't like it.
  So, on to the gear ratio choice.  There will be some drag strip runs, and track days, but mostly just cruising.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: Shawn on December 02, 2020, 01:40:42 PM
Quote from: vtgt500 on November 30, 2020, 01:47:07 PM
Quote from: roddster on November 30, 2020, 10:31:46 AM
     Summit sells the Yukon type center section.  It has the rebuildable plates for the equal lock.
  OK, suggestions welcome


Understand Yukon product is made in India.  It is a fair value for the price.  But I wouldn't put their stuff in my vehicle if you gave it to me.  My firm does business with Mark Williams Enterprises.  In my experience it is the best engineered and manufactured Ford 9" vendor.  Voice of experience, a Detroit Locker can be dicey on slippery pavement.  Good reference in Carroll Smith's book, Engineer To Win.


I purchased and installed a Yukon locking rear and new ring pinion for Ford 9".  This was set up with all new bearings etc.  It was very very noisy we removed and rebuilt again with the same products = same results.  The job was performed by a professional and I will never buy Yukon again.  Cost savings were not worth it
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: gt350hr on December 02, 2020, 03:34:13 PM
  3.50 is a good ratio but there have been some noise issues lately even on genuine Ford gears.
I was factory trained to do Ford diffs in '68 and still can't get some gears to be quiet. Be careful on what you buy.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: mikeh on December 02, 2020, 05:21:54 PM
+3 on Detroit Truetrac. Quiet & works great behind ~ 550 HP & 5 speed, w/ no maintenance.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: pbf777 on December 02, 2020, 08:55:05 PM
     Note that any of the friction worm gear gear types (as often I refer to as: "Bind-O-Matics"   ::)  ) such as True-Trac and Torsens, offer differential function by being defeated, which is fine for street driven and even hard track driven vehicles, but not unlike friction-plate types, when the power applications get high enough, the traction becomes questionable particularly left to right, the units become unreliable for proper expected function.  They also do have a seldom discussed wear-in-to-disfunction behavior which if used hard will require periodic maintenance to recover from.   

     This behavior I'm referring to is that in time, and with use, the worm wheels to worm gears become polished, this reducing the friction function and the intended resistance to the single wheel drive result (one-wheel-peel!   ::)) until in time the unit provides a greatly reduced "posi-traction" value.  Next, we have experienced the effect of when spinning one wheel, say coming out of a turn under hard acceleration the worm wheels are spinning at a high rate within the carrier housing that they are captured, heating up, until apparently with growth seize and lock, this immediately stops the spinning wheel and snatches the driving wheel free, this transfers the driving torque often in opposite of the previous experience leading up to this event and causing the vehicle to abruptly change direction!  YIKES!    :o 

      In our experience the "fix" is to periodically remove the worm wheels and gears and abrasive blast them to ruffing-up the surface texture, and all will be good again!       ;)

      Be aware that these units are not indestructible, that banner although worn by no one, does hang closest to the Detroit Locker.         :)

      And:   
Quote from: vtgt500 on November 30, 2020, 01:47:07 PM
Understand Yukon product is made in India.   ......... I wouldn't put their stuff in my vehicle if you gave it to me. 

      Scott.   
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: gt350hr on December 03, 2020, 11:01:30 AM
    FEW (if any) of us use these cars as daily drivers so 10-12,000 mile a year in use just doesn't happen like it used to when they were daily drivers so "longevity" isn't usually an issue unless your car is a dedicated "race car" ( road or drag) where breakage happens more frequently. Because we differ in driving styles and uses , you see a wide variety of opinions and preferences. The smoothest and most positive design I ever drove was the Weisman "sprag style'. These units had a unique locking method but it's $1,500 (1969 cost) price tag was out of the reach of most racers back then. The Ford T/A teams had a couple each , but not every driver liked them. The good old fashion Detroit Locker was still king back then.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: Royce Peterson on December 03, 2020, 12:36:48 PM
I put the Detroit Locker in my GT-E in 1994 when I restored it. Since then I have been a regular at nostalgia drag racing events with hundreds of passes on the strip. I have also put more than 30K street miles on the car. The engine has been rebuilt twice since then. The transmission once.

When does this breakage occur? Am I about to have trouble? Why are you the first person to say this?

Last time I drove the car was about three weeks ago. As usual I let it warm up as I drive, then after it is warmed up I drive it like I stole it.


Quote from: gt350hr on December 01, 2020, 10:47:14 AM
  There are also "special" Nascar "left turn" lockers made for easier disengagement on a left turn. Those should be avoided too. An H case locker "works " fine , BUT you must change to the 3.250 bearing , aftermarket , case.  The noise and harshness of an H case locker can be changed by the use of lighter tension springs in a street application. The MAJOR benefit of the H style locker is the "hubs" where the bearings ride are FAR stronger eliminating breakage of the ring gear side hub and or spinning the bearing on that side. This IS and has been a problem with B ( normal) case lockers and earlier "small bearing" units . I've had 30 or more ruined that way. Ford "used" to sell an empty 31 spline locker case and I saved most of them that way.
  Randy
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: shelbydoug on December 03, 2020, 01:01:16 PM
I HAD a detroit locker in my car for a couple of weeks in the early '80s. So that would probably tell you about the model it was. I don't remember.

It was brutal on locking and unlocking especially on tight left hand parking lot type turns. I went as far as to buy a "Ford Motorsport" spring for it. That never got installed and is still in the box in my shop.

I couldn't stand the thing and put back the traction lock.


Now, to what you two guys are grumbling at each other about. Does the case on both the locker and traction lock break? Not on mine BUT in that era, 70-late 80s, there WAS discussion about that and yes I do remember FORD servicing the case halves for a short BRIEF time.

Now if the locker has been civilized some time after the '80s, "power to the people!" Great BUT in my experience the thing was just plain "an uncivilized animal". Opinion? Sure. Just mine from my brief experiences with the locker.


Now. NASCAR. I guess time marches on? In my day, NASCAR ran OPEN 9" rears. THE discussion from THAT ERA, was the reason being, IF the car broke an axle, the car would spin out with a Detroit Locker.


Now Royce. I'm a little older then Randy is and not nearly as experienced. What we both have in common TO AN EXTENT is that we were both "punk kids" and in my case, the "old timers" did not easily share information and in some cases were just plain violent, so what I know from them, that was gained by accident mostly.

Randy had a different technique but it might also be attributed to him being an LA kid and me a NY'er that even the 'Jersey Guys disliked and forget about the Holman Moody Charlotte NC guys. To them the Civil War was still on (and still is).


I personally have not broken a traction lock case, certainly couldn't after two weeks with a detroit locker, and being strickly in a 'bad ass Chevy' area, had to be careful what neighborhood I was going to and disguise myself appropriately if need be and had no other "Ford" guys to talk to, just me, all by my lonesome?

"Your mileage may vary?" ;)
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: Royce Peterson on December 03, 2020, 02:19:43 PM
The Detroit Locker was totally revised in the mid 1970's. Sounds like you had one of the early DL's like Shelby and Ford used on production vehicles. The one I have doesn't do that, nor did any of the many other Detroit Lockers I have installed before or since.

I did drive a '65 Mustang years ago that had the entire driveline from a wrecked '70 Boss 302. That one had a 4.30 DL in the rear end. A very rowdy Boss 2 under the hood with headers, cam and a big 750 DP. It made a wonderful chunka - chunka - chunka noise going around corners and then you could feel when it locked up going straight. Totally different from anything except an H Locker. I don't dislike those but they are a different thing entirely.


Quote from: shelbydoug on December 03, 2020, 01:01:16 PM
I HAD a detroit locker in my car for a couple of weeks in the early '80s. So that would probably tell you about the model it was. I don't remember.

It was brutal on locking and unlocking especially on tight left hand parking lot type turns. I went as far as to buy a "Ford Motorsport" spring for it. That never got installed and is still in the box in my shop.

I couldn't stand the thing and put back the traction lock.


Now, to what you two guys are grumbling at each other about. Does the case on both the locker and traction lock break? Not on mine BUT in that era, 70-late 80s, there WAS discussion about that and yes I do remember FORD servicing the case halves for a short BRIEF time.

Now if the locker has been civilized some time after the '80s, "power to the people!" Great BUT in my experience the thing was just plain "an uncivilized animal". Opinion? Sure. Just mine from my brief experiences with the locker.


Now. NASCAR. I guess time marches on? In my day, NASCAR ran OPEN 9" rears. THE discussion from THAT ERA, was the reason being, IF the car broke an axle, the car would spin out with a Detroit Locker.


Now Royce. I'm a little older then Randy is and not nearly as experienced. What we both have in common TO AN EXTENT is that we were both "punk kids" and in my case, the "old timers" did not easily share information and in some cases were just plain violent, so what I know from them, that was gained by accident mostly.

Randy had a different technique but it might also be attributed to him being an LA kid and me a NY'er that even the 'Jersey Guys disliked and forget about the Holman Moody Charlotte NC guys. To them the Civil War was still on (and still is).


I personally have not broken a traction lock case, certainly couldn't after two weeks with a detroit locker, and being strickly in a 'bad ass Chevy' area, had to be careful what neighborhood I was going to and disguise myself appropriately if need be and had no other "Ford" guys to talk to, just me, all by my lonesome?

"Your mileage may vary?" ;)
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: roddster on December 03, 2020, 04:03:28 PM
  OK, ENOUGH ABOUT the Detroit Lockers. Take it to another thread!

   Now, any other additional advice?  ratios, bearings etc?
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: gt350hr on December 03, 2020, 05:02:21 PM
   The FIRST weak link in any 9" is the crush sleeve or "pinion bearing preload spacer". The "crush sleeve" used by many manufacturers , is a good "automotive production" way of setting diffs up. If a solid , select fit "aftermarket" spacer is used there , "most of you" will not have a problem with even a "standard duty" case. This spacer IS standard issue on Nodular iron cases with "Daytona " pinion retainers. Bearings should be restricted to USA , Mexico or Japan manufacturers. AVOID those made in China. "Production" Ford hardware is super durable and I see no reason to change.
   Serious drag racing or road race ( endurance) is a bit different and if you are doing that , PM me and I'll help.
   Randy
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: gt350hr on December 03, 2020, 05:34:29 PM
   Royce,
      My drag race experience goes back to the '65-66 A/FX Mustangs that had them stock and ran hard wall slicks wit toploaders. The ring gear side hub broke often. the mainly occurs with manual trans cars where the HP is High and the tires are wide. The internal "slack" is not preloaded like an automatic equipped car is. A ten second 4spd car is NOT a good place for a locker. An 8 second automatic ( without a trans brake) is fine simply because the "foot braking" eliminates the internal slack. The highest load is placed on the ring gear side bearing hub as the ring gear tries to wedge away from the pinion gear without sufficient bearing preload or a machined steel "spanner" ,  deflection can cause a failure over time. It also led to "spun bearings on that side. "Most" of the broken units I have fixed were from 4 speed cars including ''road race units" with higher mileage potential and far more "cycling''. This is why Nascar teams "mile" them out before they become a problem
Since you don't "campaign" your car on a weekly basis , the use/abuse is far less than some one  that put a thousand or more passes a year on one like I do. Application and use is very important when choosing parts. Heck I ran ( and literally SAT on) a 31 spline traction lock unit in my 7 second 177 mph front engine Cleveland powered dragster. 50+ runs and never broke a "stock" side cover. I set the clutches up with zero preload is the reason.
   I have used a Detroit locker  since '66 and they are GREAT in the right application. You are one that is using it in a "happy" situation.
    Randy
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: Royce Peterson on December 03, 2020, 06:19:22 PM
Note that Ford didn't use a crush sleeve in the 31 spline applications like the Cougar GT-E or the Shelby Mustangs. 428CJ Mustang / Cougar / Comet / Fairlane, Boss 302 Mustang / Cougar, Boss 429 Mustang / Cougar, Boss 351 Mustang, 429 CJ / SCJ Mustang / Cougar / Comet / Fairlane etc. In those applications it is a solid steel spacer that does not get replaced every time.

Quote from: gt350hr on December 03, 2020, 05:02:21 PM
   The FIRST weak link in any 9" is the crush sleeve or "pinion bearing preload spacer". The "crush sleeve" used by many manufacturers , is a good "automotive production" way of setting diffs up. If a solid , select fit "aftermarket" spacer is used there , "most of you" will not have a problem with even a "standard duty" case. This spacer IS standard issue on Nodular iron cases with "Daytona " pinion retainers. Bearings should be restricted to USA , Mexico or Japan manufacturers. AVOID those made in China. "Production" Ford hardware is super durable and I see no reason to change.
   Serious drag racing or road race ( endurance) is a bit different and if you are doing that , PM me and I'll help.
   Randy
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: shelbydoug on December 03, 2020, 07:26:17 PM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 03, 2020, 02:19:43 PM
The Detroit Locker was totally revised in the mid 1970's. Sounds like you had one of the early DL's like Shelby and Ford used on production vehicles. The one I have doesn't do that, nor did any of the many other Detroit Lockers I have installed before or since.

I did drive a '65 Mustang years ago that had the entire driveline from a wrecked '70 Boss 302. That one had a 4.30 DL in the rear end. A very rowdy Boss 2 under the hood with headers, cam and a big 750 DP. It made a wonderful chunka - chunka - chunka noise going around corners and then you could feel when it locked up going straight. Totally different from anything except an H Locker. I don't dislike those but they are a different thing entirely.


Quote from: shelbydoug on December 03, 2020, 01:01:16 PM
I HAD a detroit locker in my car for a couple of weeks in the early '80s. So that would probably tell you about the model it was. I don't remember.

It was brutal on locking and unlocking especially on tight left hand parking lot type turns. I went as far as to buy a "Ford Motorsport" spring for it. That never got installed and is still in the box in my shop.

I couldn't stand the thing and put back the traction lock.


Now, to what you two guys are grumbling at each other about. Does the case on both the locker and traction lock break? Not on mine BUT in that era, 70-late 80s, there WAS discussion about that and yes I do remember FORD servicing the case halves for a short BRIEF time.

Now if the locker has been civilized some time after the '80s, "power to the people!" Great BUT in my experience the thing was just plain "an uncivilized animal". Opinion? Sure. Just mine from my brief experiences with the locker.


Now. NASCAR. I guess time marches on? In my day, NASCAR ran OPEN 9" rears. THE discussion from THAT ERA, was the reason being, IF the car broke an axle, the car would spin out with a Detroit Locker.


Now Royce. I'm a little older then Randy is and not nearly as experienced. What we both have in common TO AN EXTENT is that we were both "punk kids" and in my case, the "old timers" did not easily share information and in some cases were just plain violent, so what I know from them, that was gained by accident mostly.

Randy had a different technique but it might also be attributed to him being an LA kid and me a NY'er that even the 'Jersey Guys disliked and forget about the Holman Moody Charlotte NC guys. To them the Civil War was still on (and still is).


I personally have not broken a traction lock case, certainly couldn't after two weeks with a detroit locker, and being strickly in a 'bad ass Chevy' area, had to be careful what neighborhood I was going to and disguise myself appropriately if need be and had no other "Ford" guys to talk to, just me, all by my lonesome?

"Your mileage may vary?" ;)

This was about 1982. The locker came from Bill Maier racing.

Not only would it spin the left tire on a tight left hand turn, it would wiggle the car at speed like I had bias tires and was catching the joints in the road.


The Traction Lock actually has more of a reputation of breaking the case then the locker does. I think that might be more of an issue with a big block?
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: roddster on December 04, 2020, 11:15:50 AM
  I subscribe to these magazines: Hot Rod, and Hemmings Muscle car.  In the September issue of HMC there is an article about a quiet 9" Ford rear end.  Check it all out at www.johnsindustries.com
  Online choices for options such as read housing, third members (including Detroit Lockers), nodular iron or aluminum castings, axles.  All there on-line plus you can price it out right there.
  If I was to buy their third member with traction lock, and a pair of axles, it would be about $1900.
  And there is a tech line if needed.
   Just another thing to chew on.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: gt350hr on December 04, 2020, 02:56:53 PM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 03, 2020, 06:19:22 PM
Note that Ford didn't use a crush sleeve in the 31 spline applications like the Cougar GT-E or the Shelby Mustangs. 428CJ Mustang / Cougar / Comet / Fairlane, Boss 302 Mustang / Cougar, Boss 429 Mustang / Cougar, Boss 351 Mustang, 429 CJ / SCJ Mustang / Cougar / Comet / Fairlane etc. In those applications it is a solid steel spacer that does not get replaced every time.

Quote from: gt350hr on December 03, 2020, 05:02:21 PM
   The FIRST weak link in any 9" is the crush sleeve or "pinion bearing preload spacer". The "crush sleeve" used by many manufacturers , is a good "automotive production" way of setting diffs up. If a solid , select fit "aftermarket" spacer is used there , "most of you" will not have a problem with even a "standard duty" case. This spacer IS standard issue on Nodular iron cases with "Daytona " pinion retainers. Bearings should be restricted to USA , Mexico or Japan manufacturers. AVOID those made in China. "Production" Ford hardware is super durable and I see no reason to change.
   Serious drag racing or road race ( endurance) is a bit different and if you are doing that , PM me and I'll help.
   Randy

   This spacer IS standard issue on Nodular cases with "Daytona" pinion retainers.  Clearly stated above because "some" N cased diffs had standard bearing retainers ( Ford trucks mainly at the end of 9" production)
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: roddster on December 05, 2020, 01:01:35 PM
  Its in the NPD catalog:  They sell a kit with a spacer and different shims so you can do away with the crush sleeve.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: pbf777 on December 05, 2020, 07:54:29 PM
Quote from: roddster on December 05, 2020, 01:01:35 PM
   a kit with a spacer and different shims so you can do away with the crush sleeve.


     We do not recommend using any of these "stack-a-shims" spacer systems for bearing location or preload as they have repeatedly demonstrated the tendency to wad-up and displace the shims, this leading to failure of the assembly!        :o

     The original engineering from Ford was that of individual, one piece steel spacers available in different thickness or lengths and selected to provide the desired preload value for the bearing set.       ;)

     Scott.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: gt350hr on December 07, 2020, 11:59:16 AM
   That's because you've broken too many anvils with rubber mallets. Poor quality shim material IMHO , is the reason they "wad up" , plus .010 should be the minimum thickness. Ford's original design ( never released for production) was two .225 thick spacers and the "shims" were "sandwiched" in between. "I" believe these were initially made by Bill Stroppe and Associates , later known as Holman -Moody -Stroppe.
     Randy
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: pbf777 on December 07, 2020, 05:10:37 PM
Quote from: gt350hr on December 07, 2020, 11:59:16 AM
   That's because you've broken too many anvils with rubber mallets.

     Randy, now you know me better than that,  the smallest hammer (the rubber mallet heads just keep flying off the handles!) I've got is a 20# sledge, painted army green off one of my wreckers!      :o

     But, I can assure you that when I intend to have something "seated", it's seated!     ::)

     Scott.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: shelbydoug on December 08, 2020, 08:01:18 AM
Quote from: pbf777 on December 07, 2020, 05:10:37 PM
Quote from: gt350hr on December 07, 2020, 11:59:16 AM
   That's because you've broken too many anvils with rubber mallets.

     Randy, now you know me better than that,  the smallest hammer (the rubber mallet heads just keep flying off the handles!) I've got is a 20# sledge, painted army green off one of my wreckers!      :o

     But, I can assure you that when I intend to have something "seated", it's seated!     ::)

     Scott.

I had an instructor like that. When he told you to sit down and be quiet if you didn't then he would use a ball peen hammer and then you were seated.  8)
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: Royce Peterson on December 08, 2020, 09:25:59 AM
All of the applications I stated have standard Daytona pinion housings. So far every original one I have taken apart - that's several - have had a solid select sleeve. If you find one with a crush sleeve it's not because Ford installed one - but you will then have to do something because crush sleeves are not re - useable.


Quote from: gt350hr on December 04, 2020, 02:56:53 PM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 03, 2020, 06:19:22 PM
Note that Ford didn't use a crush sleeve in the 31 spline applications like the Cougar GT-E or the Shelby Mustangs. 428CJ Mustang / Cougar / Comet / Fairlane, Boss 302 Mustang / Cougar, Boss 429 Mustang / Cougar, Boss 351 Mustang, 429 CJ / SCJ Mustang / Cougar / Comet / Fairlane etc. In those applications it is a solid steel spacer that does not get replaced every time.

Quote from: gt350hr on December 03, 2020, 05:02:21 PM
   The FIRST weak link in any 9" is the crush sleeve or "pinion bearing preload spacer". The "crush sleeve" used by many manufacturers , is a good "automotive production" way of setting diffs up. If a solid , select fit "aftermarket" spacer is used there , "most of you" will not have a problem with even a "standard duty" case. This spacer IS standard issue on Nodular iron cases with "Daytona " pinion retainers. Bearings should be restricted to USA , Mexico or Japan manufacturers. AVOID those made in China. "Production" Ford hardware is super durable and I see no reason to change.
   Serious drag racing or road race ( endurance) is a bit different and if you are doing that , PM me and I'll help.
   Randy

   This spacer IS standard issue on Nodular cases with "Daytona" pinion retainers.  Clearly stated above because "some" N cased diffs had standard bearing retainers ( Ford trucks mainly at the end of 9" production)
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: gt350hr on December 08, 2020, 10:47:34 AM
   Solid spacers were also in EVERY 9-3/8ths diff built by Ford. The deeper pinion offset put a higher load on the "test" differentials , causing the initial attempt at using a crush sleeve to be spec'd for all production with the solid , select fit . spacer. As Royce said , if you find a crush sleeve in any of these two pinion retainers , a novice changed it out. As a note the "standard" retainer requires a solid spacer about .020 ( on average) thinner than a Daytona retainer. This is where an aftermarket adjustable kit should be used. The same kit can be used in a "modern" 8.8 diff for similar improvement.
     Randy
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: pbf777 on December 08, 2020, 11:33:34 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on December 08, 2020, 08:01:18 AM
I had an instructor like that. When he told you to sit down and be quiet if you didn't then he would use a ball peen hammer and then you were seated.  8)


     I had a chemistry instructor that used a baseball bat as his persuader/enforcer, and I witnessed it being put into service exactly once in class, the demonstration took-out one school desk, but buddy, he had every ones' attention from then on.      :o

     I don't think this modus operandi would be permitted in todays' world of pansy-ass, I got my feelings hurt, sensitive society!         ::)

     Scott.
Title: Re: Advice or tips for my 9" upgrade
Post by: shelbydoug on December 08, 2020, 01:20:47 PM
Quote from: pbf777 on December 08, 2020, 11:33:34 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on December 08, 2020, 08:01:18 AM
I had an instructor like that. When he told you to sit down and be quiet if you didn't then he would use a ball peen hammer and then you were seated.  8)


     I had a chemistry instructor that used a baseball bat as his persuader/enforcer, and I witnessed it being put into service exactly once in class, the demonstration took-out one school desk, but buddy, he had every ones' attention from then on.      :o

     I don't think this modus operandi would be permitted in todays' world of pansy-ass, I got my feels hurt, sensitive society!         ::)

     Scott.

Ah grasshopper.  ::) ::)

Have you ever wondered where the women SS Nazis disappeared to at the end of WWII?

I have a friend who claims that they took the southern route into Northern Italy, made a donation to the Catholic Church, and were re-baptized with new names.

Then they applied for and received RedCross ID's and emigrated to the US where they became nuns in the Catholic parochial schools teaching in New York.

Personally I am entirely fed up with all of these conspiracies theories but in this case it sounds suspiciously true?  There is much circumstantial evidence to suggest it could be true? ::)