Is there a way?
I can't figure out how to remove the mirror from the housing.
I have one standard mirror and one remote and both need rechroming.
Thanks in advance.
It is glued in
Not something that is normally serviced
OK thanks once again, on the hunt for mirrors now.
I managed to get hold of a NOS dash bezel and also a C8OF-AA carb, so having some success.
Those are good finds
There was no mirror on the passenger side, drivers side only
The reproduction US made mirrors are nice. You do have to use your old adjustment knob, which unscrews.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Repro-Ford-1967-1968-Remote-Mirror-Galaxie-Fairlane-Falcon-Comet-Montego/401503248150?epid=2236200039&hash=item5d7b755f16:g:PLgAAOxy-o5R3GIv
Quote from: Coralsnake on November 27, 2020, 11:19:02 AM
The reproduction US made mirrors are nice. You do have to use your old adjustment knob, which unscrews.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Repro-Ford-1967-1968-Remote-Mirror-Galaxie-Fairlane-Falcon-Comet-Montego/401503248150?epid=2236200039&hash=item5d7b755f16:g:PLgAAOxy-o5R3GIv
Thank you re both posts, saved me a lot of searching and wondering which is best repro.I will order the mirror tomorrow.
Quote from: Jack4159 on November 27, 2020, 10:19:11 AM
Is there a way?
I can't figure out how to remove the mirror from the housing.
I have one standard mirror and one remote and both need rechroming.
Thanks in advance.
Yes it can be done ( remote control mirror ), but it is tricky, tedious and usually painful. It is getting the remote cables released from the control assembly with out damaging it that's the pain ( figuratively and literately).
Rodney
Quote from: KR500 on November 27, 2020, 11:31:08 AM
Quote from: Jack4159 on November 27, 2020, 10:19:11 AM
Is there a way?
I can't figure out how to remove the mirror from the housing.
I have one standard mirror and one remote and both need rechroming.
Thanks in advance.
Yes it can be done ( remote control mirror ), but it is tricky, tedious and usually painful. It is getting the remote cables released from the control assembly with out damaging it that's the pain ( figuratively and literately).
Rodney
Label or color code where the cable goes into what part of the mechanism it cameout of. Watch out when prying the cable mounts apart. When reassembling,crimp carefully, and add a little epoxy to hold the cabled.
Quote from: roddster on November 28, 2020, 11:47:33 AM
Quote from: KR500 on November 27, 2020, 11:31:08 AM
Quote from: Jack4159 on November 27, 2020, 10:19:11 AM
Is there a way?
I can't figure out how to remove the mirror from the housing.
I have one standard mirror and one remote and both need rechroming.
Thanks in advance.
Yes it can be done ( remote control mirror ), but it is tricky, tedious and usually painful. It is getting the remote cables released from the control assembly with out damaging it that's the pain ( figuratively and literately).
Rodney
Label or color code where the cable goes into what part of the mechanism it cameout of. Watch out when prying the cable mounts apart. When reassembling,crimp carefully, and add a little epoxy to hold the cabled.
Thanks gents,
You are temping me to try, but if I have success with the cable how then do I remove the mirror itself from the housing? I assume when Pete said it is glued in that is the part he meant and I need to get it completely disassembled for rechroming if I am to re-use
Thanks again.
I'm doing the same with my XR7-G side mirror -
Lots of useful parts at WCCC (in case you are not aware already)
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/side-view-mirror-remote-controller-assembly-1967-1973-mercury-cougar-/-1967-1973-ford-mustang.html?sessionthemeid=26
- Phillip
Quote from: Jack4159 on November 29, 2020, 06:47:01 AM
Quote from: roddster on November 28, 2020, 11:47:33 AM
Quote from: KR500 on November 27, 2020, 11:31:08 AM
Quote from: Jack4159 on November 27, 2020, 10:19:11 AM
Is there a way?
I can't figure out how to remove the mirror from the housing.
I have one standard mirror and one remote and both need rechroming.
Thanks in advance.
Yes it can be done ( remote control mirror ), but it is tricky, tedious and usually painful. It is getting the remote cables released from the control assembly with out damaging it that's the pain ( figuratively and literately).
Rodney
Label or color code where the cable goes into what part of the mechanism it cameout of. Watch out when prying the cable mounts apart. When reassembling,crimp carefully, and add a little epoxy to hold the cabled.
Thanks gents,
You are temping me to try, but if I have success with the cable how then do I remove the mirror itself from the housing? I assume when Pete said it is glued in that is the part he meant and I need to get it completely disassembled for rechroming if I am to re-use
Thanks again.
The mirror glass it's self is glued to a thin metal plate that in turn the control cables attach to. Unless your mirror glass is damaged there is no need to do anything to this part other than to clean it.
Rodney
Here you go...
😀
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Ford-Mustang-Fairlane-Torino-LTD-Side-View-Mirror-Back-Plate-C8AZ17723A-NOS/322249577853?fits=Year%3A1968%7CModel%3AMustang&epid=1423214437&hash=item4b0792557d:g:EmcAAOSwGtRXyb7r
Cables go into this part with mirror glue to front
Ahhh I can see it now, thanks gents.
I think there is better than even chance I would ruin the mirror attempting to get it apart, will keep it safe in the Shelby spares box and go with the repro I think.
The original glass is faintly date coded and is what makes the mirror assembly distinguishable from a generic reproduction. The glass can be transfered with some effort from a pitted original assembly into a repro body for a original look.
Thanks Bob, Pete and all.
Ok I'm sitting here mirror on workbench and if I think I can get it apart I will have a go, have the lot rechromed and stay original.I have the time so that is not an issue, I just don't want to butcher it.
Now, how do I release the mirror as Bob suggests? Heat, to free up the glue? If I get the mirror off I then could dremel grind off the mounting points for the control cables and the rest is cake?....but how to reattach?or is is better to detach the cables at the other end? That looks a tricky task releasing the crimps without breaking the housing.Better to cut the cables at the control knob end and silver solder back in? or can the crimp be opened up?
Quote from: Jack4159 on December 01, 2020, 08:24:58 PM
Thanks Bob, Pete and all.
Ok I'm sitting here mirror on workbench and if I think I can get it apart I will have a go, have the lot rechromed and stay original.I have the time so that is not an issue, I just don't want to butcher it.
Now, how do I release the mirror as Bob suggests? Heat, to free up the glue? If I get the mirror off I then could dremel grind off the mounting points for the control cables and the rest is cake?....but how to reattach?or is is better to detach the cables at the other end? That looks a tricky task releasing the crimps without breaking the housing.Better to cut the cables at the control knob end and silver solder back in? or can the crimp be opened up?
I leave the mirror glass alone. Disassemble the control end and leave the cables attached to the mirror plate. Getting the part that the cables attache to spread open to release the cables is the hard part. Do Not cut the cables! As noted before mark the location of the cables, they are color coded.
Rodney
Quote from: KR500 on December 02, 2020, 08:47:44 AM
Quote from: Jack4159 on December 01, 2020, 08:24:58 PM
Thanks Bob, Pete and all.
Ok I'm sitting here mirror on workbench and if I think I can get it apart I will have a go, have the lot rechromed and stay original.I have the time so that is not an issue, I just don't want to butcher it.
Now, how do I release the mirror as Bob suggests? Heat, to free up the glue? If I get the mirror off I then could dremel grind off the mounting points for the control cables and the rest is cake?....but how to reattach?or is is better to detach the cables at the other end? That looks a tricky task releasing the crimps without breaking the housing.Better to cut the cables at the control knob end and silver solder back in? or can the crimp be opened up?
I leave the mirror glass alone. Disassemble the control end and leave the cables attached to the mirror plate. Getting the part that the cables attache to spread open to release the cables is the hard part. Do Not cut the cables! As noted before mark the location of the cables, they are color coded.
Rodney
Thanks Rodney, I'll post with the outcome if it works out, if not I may keep my head down.
Rodney - where the cables pass thru the chrome bezel, what method do you suggest for spreading the bezel where it pinches the cables holding them in place?
Do you apply some heat? Is there a tool that is good for spreading the metal?
And thanks Jack4159 for starting this informative thread!
- Phillip
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/134-031220091050.jpeg)
Quote from: propayne on December 03, 2020, 09:15:32 AM
Rodney - where the cables pass thru the chrome bezel, what method do you suggest for spreading the bezel where it pinches the cables holding them in place?
Do you apply some heat? Is there a tool that is good for spreading the metal?
And thanks Jack4159 for starting this informative thread!
- Phillip
No heat. I use a gasket scraper and a small thin bladed screwdriver. A small chisel might work also. My finger usually do not escape unscathed.
Rodney
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/134-031220091050.jpeg)
Thanks Rodney!
- Phillip
OK I had some success, took me about an hour.
I opened up the crimps with a small flathead screwdriver and also used a needle file to tidy up rough edges before extracting wire.
Pics attached will maybe help anyone else who wants to have a go.
The crimps furthest away from the adjustment knob are easiest, so start there as it gets easier with every one you do as you get the hang of it.
Once you have the crimps opened up a little at the end closest to the adjustment knob, get underneath the bullet head and ease it up out of it spot, this takes a little effort. Once it's free pull the bullet head towards the adjustment knob, that will take the head away from the crimp and you will be able to lift the wire up through the gap(which only needs to be opened up to the diameter of the wire).
Once free of the crimps you need to pull the wires out through the housings before you will be able to separate the various housing pieces.
Wear a heavy glove on your left hand, the flat blade driver will occasionally slip due to the pressure you have to exert and attack you viciously. This is very exciting and results in involuntary noises being made....followed by pain and a more considered and prolonged x rated outburst.
Hope that helps somebody out there. :)
I applaud your efforts. I have broken and destroyed many parts to see how the were assembled.
Keeping track of your time is a good idea. Then you can evaluate what the true cost is and decide if it was worth it.
All I can say is WOW. The time, effort, cash outlay for the ability to say, you have an original mirror is outstanding. Not for everyone, so an A for effort on your part! ;)
Quote from: Jack4159 on December 04, 2020, 07:47:31 AM
OK I had some success, took me about an hour.
I opened up the crimps with a small flathead screwdriver and also used a needle file to tidy up rough edges before extracting wire.
Pics attached will maybe help anyone else who wants to have a go.
The crimps furthest away from the adjustment knob are easiest, so start there as it gets easier with every one you do as you get the hang of it.
Once you have the crimps opened up a little at the end closest to the adjustment knob, get underneath the bullet head and ease it up out of it spot, this takes a little effort. Once it's free pull the bullet head towards the adjustment knob, that will take the head away from the crimp and you will be able to lift the wire up through the gap(which only needs to be opened up to the diameter of the wire).
Once free of the crimps you need to pull the wires out through the housings before you will be able to separate the various housing pieces.
Wear a heavy glove on your left hand, the flat blade driver will occasionally slip due to the pressure you have to exert and attack you viciously. This is very exciting and results in involuntary noises being made....followed by pain and a more considered and prolonged x rated outburst.
Hope that helps somebody out there. :)
I warned you that it could be painful!
Rodney