While I have the intake off I thought I'd give it a good cleaning. Any recommendations? Are any of those raw aluminum wheel cleaners useful and safe? There's a spot with a fuel stain I'd like to get rid of.
Thanks!
Quote from: DGSOH on October 02, 2020, 04:22:58 PM
While I have the intake off I thought I'd give it a good cleaning. Any recommendations? Are any of those raw aluminum wheel cleaners useful and safe? There's a spot with a fuel stain I'd like to get rid of.
Thanks!
Has it been cleaned before ? Bead blasted etc.? Or is it unrestored with caked grease ,paint overspray etc.?
Quote from: Bob Gaines on October 02, 2020, 04:52:43 PM
Quote from: DGSOH on October 02, 2020, 04:22:58 PM
While I have the intake off I thought I'd give it a good cleaning. Any recommendations? Are any of those raw aluminum wheel cleaners useful and safe? There's a spot with a fuel stain I'd like to get rid of.
Thanks!
Has it been cleaned before ? Bead blasted etc.? Or is it unrestored with caked grease ,paint overspray etc.?
lol After I posted I thought to myself maybe I should have mentioned current condition.
It was bead blasted (I know, I know) a few years ago and is pretty clean right now with really only the fuel stain on the passenger side below the carb, probably a few finger prints here and there and looking a little dull. I understand the dull is sort of where it should really be maybe?
Thanks.
Well there is doubt in my mind about dull simply because I've seen (and have) manifolds that have a gleam to them as if they were vapor blasted.
I know...I'm gonna' get flack from Gaines BUT you have to see one that has been vapor blasted. It's to another level!
Quote from: shelbydoug on October 02, 2020, 06:00:30 PM
Well there is doubt in my mind about dull simply because I've seen (and have) manifolds that have a gleam to them as if they were vapor blasted...
Don't understand your statement - respectfully. Are you saying that seen original or NOS period intakes that had a shine to them other than the machined surfaces without some form of protective coating or oil ?
Quote from: J_Speegle on October 02, 2020, 06:05:18 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on October 02, 2020, 06:00:30 PM
Well there is doubt in my mind about dull simply because I've seen (and have) manifolds that have a gleam to them as if they were vapor blasted...
Don't understand your statement - respectfully. Are you saying that seen original or NOS period intakes that had a shine to them other than the machined surfaces without some form of protective coating or oil ?
A gleam to the dullness.
Quote from: shelbydoug on October 02, 2020, 09:01:04 PMA gleam to the dullness.
Well that surely is covering all the bases
Start mild, all-purpose cleaner (Fantastic or 409) and a soft-ish plastic Bristol brush rise with water. No power tools.
Then maybe citric-based cleaners.
Heavy stuff, some have used oven-cleaner
Quote from: DGSOH on October 02, 2020, 05:23:04 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on October 02, 2020, 04:52:43 PM
Quote from: DGSOH on October 02, 2020, 04:22:58 PM
While I have the intake off I thought I'd give it a good cleaning. Any recommendations? Are any of those raw aluminum wheel cleaners useful and safe? There's a spot with a fuel stain I'd like to get rid of.
Thanks!
Has it been cleaned before ? Bead blasted etc.? Or is it unrestored with caked grease ,paint overspray etc.?
lol After I posted I thought to myself maybe I should have mentioned current condition.
It was bead blasted (I know, I know) a few years ago and is pretty clean right now with really only the fuel stain on the passenger side below the carb, probably a few finger prints here and there and looking a little dull. I understand the dull is sort of where it should really be maybe?
Thanks.
Based on your description I would first go with the steps that JD gave in Reply #7 then final finish with some Eagle One aluminum Wheel cleaner . The first products will get rid of most grease ,dirt ,fuel residue so that the acid in the aluminum cleaner product can work better. That aluminum cleaner product unfortunately has changed over the years. Previously there was one product for cast wheels (what I used that would dull polished wheels because it was so strong) and a less strong product for polished wheels. Now it is one product for both which isn't as strong . Use with a stiff plastic bristled brush like the other products JD suggested. It is still better to use then not but doesn't give as good of results. I haven't found a substitute
I ended up using brake cleaner and a wire brush, and it worked out great
Just consider when you make your choices that chemicals and types of metal (think brushes) can react with the base aluminum and often produce unwanted results. As many have found out you can't reverse some of these choices - in the search for reproducing the original look - so consider everything and test on another intake or a hidden (from view once installed) area first.
I'm hoping to test of bunch of cleaning method once I get my new shop built (ya I know) so I can compare the final look. Planning to cut and intake in at least eight sections in a way that all the pieces can be reassembled for comparison. That way they are all starting with the same condition in the beginning
Quote from: J_Speegle on October 03, 2020, 09:40:20 PM
Just consider when you make your choices that chemicals and types of metal (think brushes) can react with the base aluminum and often produce unwanted results. As many have found out you can't reverse some of these choices - in the search for reproducing the original look - so consider everything and test on another intake or a hidden (from view once installed) area first.
I'm hoping to test of bunch of cleaning method once I get my new shop built (ya I know) so I can compare the final look. Planning to cut and intake in at least eight sections in a way that all the pieces can be reassembled for comparison. That way they are all starting with the same condition in the beginning
Exactly the reason for my raising this question Jeff. I've ruined more pieces of aluminum (not car parts) than I care to remember looking for a quick easy clean and polish.
I'll go with the household cleaner and see where I land before moving to something else.
Thanks.
And while I'm at it - should I use the same torque spec as the iron manifold when reinstalling or something else?
Thanks.
If you do decide to glass bead a part, you can reduce the shine by using purple power and a scotch bright but be careful not to leave the purple power on it for more than an hour as it is a caustic agent. Rinse clean with water and be sure to take the heat shield off and clean under it.
Quote from: Jbrooks on October 03, 2020, 09:26:38 PM
I ended up using brake cleaner and a wire brush, and it worked out great
Wire brush will clean but will give a non original look to the metal . The OP is after a original look along with cleaning. I would highly discourage using a wire brush because of that.
I had pretty good success with eagle wheel cleaner and a pressure washer. A scrub brush tends to polish it a bit.
EVERY manifold that I have seen that was machined by Offenhauser seemed to have a slight sheen to it, similar to what you might get from a nylon scrub brush.
It has NEVER been determined how Offe got that or even seen in any pictures at Offenhauser. It does resemble the process that Country Squire here is getting on cast aluminum parts.
I HAVE the "heavy duty" wheel cleaner here and the stuff is nasty. If you leave it on too long it WILL leave a white residue that doesn't want to leave easily.
Quote from: DGSOH on October 04, 2020, 08:21:10 AM
And while I'm at it - should I use the same torque spec as the iron manifold when reinstalling or something else?
Thanks.
The torque specification is general based on the elastic limits of the fastener with adequate support for such provided by the iron (in this case) castings. Unfortunately, in this instance, the original engineering was based on cast iron, a much more rigid material, than the latter substitution of aluminum's capacity. So the answer would be upon making such an observation it would be recommended to reduce the O.E.'s original value "some". Generally the market place voices values such as a reduction of 10 - 20% when aluminum is under-head, but that is probably a value having more to do with differential in expansion properties with heat more so than an implication of the less capable supportive material in strength.
The S.B.F. intakes bolted to the O.E.M. 289 cylinder head is not well supported at the four corners, again, this was O.K. when the manifold was constructed of iron, but with the substitution of aluminum, many have witnessed failures; hence, drop the O.E. torque spec. value "some" unless you wish to experience the same. ;)
Scott.
For cleaning the intake you might give Gibbs oil a try. I use it for cleaning aluminum Torque thrust wheels, and preserving bare metal parts prior to painting. Excellent cleaning and doesn't darken or discolor.
http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/
Quote from: DGSOH on October 04, 2020, 08:21:10 AM
And while I'm at it - should I use the same torque spec as the iron manifold when reinstalling or something else?
Thanks.
Think I saved this torque spec sheet from Forum 1.0...
Quote from: CSX 4133 on October 05, 2020, 11:24:58 AM
For cleaning the intake you might give Gibbs oil a try. I use it for cleaning aluminum Torque thrust wheels, and preserving bare metal parts prior to painting. Excellent cleaning and doesn't darken or discolor.
http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/
I am skeptical about Gibbs cleaning ability however it reads like it may be superior to what I am using now at preserving the aluminum from oxidizing after surface cleaning and or preparation . Interesting enough testimonial that I ordered some to experiment with . Amazon had the best price for two cans plus free shipping with prime.
Quote from: s2ms on October 05, 2020, 12:02:27 PM
Quote from: DGSOH on October 04, 2020, 08:21:10 AM
And while I'm at it - should I use the same torque spec as the iron manifold when reinstalling or something else?
Thanks.
Think I saved this torque spec sheet from Forum 1.0...
Just snug the bolts down with a box wrench no longer then about 6 inches. Run it through a couple of heat cycles and tighten the bolts again and then just leave them alone.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on October 05, 2020, 12:09:48 PM
I am skeptical about Gibbs cleaning ability however it reads like it may be superior to what I am using now at preserving the aluminum from oxidizing after surface cleaning and or preparation . Interesting enough testimonial that I ordered some to experiment with . Amazon had the best price for two cans plus free shipping with prime.
Might want to be careful at using an oil for protection on a porous surface since it may help other liquids, spills or stains to travel further into the base metal using the oil to help penetrate more. Especially since there are plenty of opportunities (fuel leak for one) for exposure to liquids on an intake, valve covers or oil pan than say exterior of wheels. Let us know how the experiment goes
Just a thought
Quote from: s2ms on October 05, 2020, 12:02:27 PM
Quote from: DGSOH on October 04, 2020, 08:21:10 AM
And while I'm at it - should I use the same torque spec as the iron manifold when reinstalling or something else?
Thanks.
Think I saved this torque spec sheet from Forum 1.0...
Excellent! Thank you.